The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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- Posts: 77
- Joined: Fri Aug 24, 2018 5:06 pm
someone would know how much the standard aero spokes on my vision tc24 wheelset would weigh? want to make my wheels some bit lighter with sapim cx rays but dont know how much i will save
- ridley fenix sl 105 - not lightweight
- sworks tarmac sl 5 r8050 di2 - vision tc 24 wheels = 7,1kg
- sworks tarmac sl 5 r8050 di2 - vision tc 24 wheels = 7,1kg
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- Posts: 77
- Joined: Fri Aug 24, 2018 5:06 pm
Yeahhh so not worth the money? And some other spokes? Someone had somen better light stiffer spokes?bm0p700f wrote:Not alot and not enough to make it worth itm also if CX rays are lighter they are also less stiff which may lead to brake rub problems.
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- ridley fenix sl 105 - not lightweight
- sworks tarmac sl 5 r8050 di2 - vision tc 24 wheels = 7,1kg
- sworks tarmac sl 5 r8050 di2 - vision tc 24 wheels = 7,1kg
- vejnemojnen
- Posts: 406
- Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2013 7:11 pm
Sapim CX SPRINT. Marginally heavier, bit thicker, much stiffer..WILLIAMDENYS wrote: ↑Wed Nov 21, 2018 12:59 pmYeahhh so not worth the money? And some other spokes? Someone had somen better light stiffer spokes?bm0p700f wrote:Not alot and not enough to make it worth itm also if CX rays are lighter they are also less stiff which may lead to brake rub problems.
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In basically all spokes, stiffness is proportional to weight.
There are no spokes that are lighter AND stiffer - only if you change material, e.g. from steel to carbon fiber, which means new wheels and other issues.
Finally recieved my parts after a long wait and got a chance to lace everything up this evening. The front wheel is 606g and the rear 792g. I won't know until I start to tension them, but it looks like all of my spoke lengths are more or less correct.
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You use nipple freeze on dry threads only and you apply before lacing. It's too late afterwards.
The answer to your questions should be obvious why oil then use spoke prep. The spoke prep is the lubricant and the thread locker and the corrosion inhibitor. No spoke prep can be added after the build.
The answer to your questions should be obvious why oil then use spoke prep. The spoke prep is the lubricant and the thread locker and the corrosion inhibitor. No spoke prep can be added after the build.
I've been loving ARP torque grease as a spoke prep. it lubricates then dries (takes about a week) so the nipple is slightly harder to turn, but is still lubed years later if that makes sense. I use a 10ml syringe with a 12ga catheter tube and put a little squirt inside the nipple so there's no mess.
@ACO: DT Spoke Freeze is applied after the build, to the spoke and nipple joint and yes, I think you can apply it even if the spoke has been oiled. But double check on that. I don’t know about the Sapim product.
I use Wheelsmith Spokeprep before the build. I just pour a very small “pool” onto a small size piece of glossy photopaper then lightly “roll” the threads of the spokes into it to get just a light (not thick) coating. Provides for smooth threading while building then will set up and prevent the spoke from loosening but not so much that it’s difficult to adjust if you need to later.
I use Wheelsmith Spokeprep before the build. I just pour a very small “pool” onto a small size piece of glossy photopaper then lightly “roll” the threads of the spokes into it to get just a light (not thick) coating. Provides for smooth threading while building then will set up and prevent the spoke from loosening but not so much that it’s difficult to adjust if you need to later.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ
Sounds like the DT Spoke Freeze is quite different from Sapim Nipple Freeze.
From the DT product instructions:
Apply one drop of DT spoke freeze to each nipple-spoke joint (see picture): on a degrease spoke thread: nipple is firmly fixed – no loosening
on an oiled spoke thread: nipple is fixed – but still can be turned forcefully with a nipple wrench for retruing
It has low viscosity so it is wicked into the threads post build.
In a long ago post, Ric Hjertberg suggested using loctite 220 (not 222) for it's wicking properties.
https://www.wheelfanatyk.com/blog/three ... ding-tips/
AC
From the DT product instructions:
Apply one drop of DT spoke freeze to each nipple-spoke joint (see picture): on a degrease spoke thread: nipple is firmly fixed – no loosening
on an oiled spoke thread: nipple is fixed – but still can be turned forcefully with a nipple wrench for retruing
It has low viscosity so it is wicked into the threads post build.
In a long ago post, Ric Hjertberg suggested using loctite 220 (not 222) for it's wicking properties.
https://www.wheelfanatyk.com/blog/three ... ding-tips/
AC
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