The wheelbuilding thread

Everything about building wheels, glueing tubs, etc.
Marin
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by Marin

Depends on how you price your time

by Weenie


bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

The only way the rim can move sideways is if the hub is not symmetric. It is not something wrong with the rim unless us it is very asymmetric. You notice that. This happens on rear wheels. You have to account for it.

If the rim has moved tension will be lower on one side. So correct and hi for a ride.

rasmusic
Posts: 138
Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 1:48 am
Location: Norway

by rasmusic

The rim is defective (and symmetrical). I posted photos under another topic, but FarSports wanted me to delete them. They will replace the rim.

ooo
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Joined: Sat May 21, 2016 12:59 pm

by ooo

Does it make any sens to use alloy nipples on one side (non disc front, nds rear), and brass on other side (disc front, ds rear)?
'

dmulligan
Posts: 313
Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2014 6:16 pm

by dmulligan

SparticusCZ: Have you considered 55 or even 65mm rims? I have 55mm LB rims and wish the 65mm rims had been available when I built mine.

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SpartacusCZ
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Joined: Fri Dec 29, 2017 12:08 pm

by SpartacusCZ

No, 55 or 65mm is too deep for my usage. I ride flats and many steep climbs, so need some allround rims. At now, hesitate between building with Nextie 45mm and DT swiss components and Fulcrum quattro carbon.
Nextie have a modern parametres ( wider, U - shape ). Fulcrum is conservative brand ( narrover, not U-shape ), but I am sure fulcrums have a good ride feel - roll well and very stiff.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

why is 55mm to deep. That itself is faulty logic. 55mm deep rims climb just fine. 45-55mm deep u shaped rims are ideal for nearly all rides. The only times I would not use them is when there are long decent where lots of braking is required. But that not the depth just the fact they are carbon.

U shape rims are simply better there is no excuse not to use them.

TimF
Posts: 31
Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 11:18 pm

by TimF

I'm a light rider, who's just picked up a Colnage C-RS fitted with Shimano WH-RS010. I know these are really basic! Looking for some wheels around 1400 gram range in the £300 to £400 category (UK), can spend more if required. What's the general opinion on areo rims versus normal now the weights have come down a bit? Are any budget carbon fibre rims worth bothering with? I'm semi obsessed with weight so want something light :mrgreen: 8)

Thanks all, Tim

TimF
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Joined: Wed May 09, 2012 11:18 pm

by TimF

Sorry all realised this thread is for wheel building yourself !

:roll:

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Take a Kinlin xr22t 24h/28h and bitex RAF/rar12 hubs laced up with sapim lasers pillar 1422 spokes or the cc rays I normally use and you will have a1440g wheelset that is quite stiff.

Lighter clinchers are of course possible but compromises start to be made and with lighter and more pricey rims or lighter narrower rims like the Kinlin xr220, or lower spoke counts that don't suit everyone you get the idea.

Forget carbon at this price point.

One wheelset that could work is using the velocity quill rim and the bitex raf10/RAF 9 hubs which are 260g / pair.
You will have wheels that weigh around 1380g in 20F/24R spoke count with sapim lasers or pillar 1422 spokes but a compromise on bearing life has just been made. See what I mean. For proper light your budget has to go up.

Timmy269
Posts: 183
Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2014 2:34 pm

by Timmy269

When I was truing my dt swiss rc55spline front wheel, I have broken two nipples. I know the spokes are Dt swiss aerolite straightpull but which nipples I have to buy to replace the broken ones?

Timmy269
Posts: 183
Joined: Tue Nov 25, 2014 2:34 pm

by Timmy269

Timmy269 wrote:
Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:10 pm
When I was truing my dt swiss rc55spline front wheel, I have broken two nipples. I know the spokes are Dt swiss aerolite straightpull but which nipples I have to buy to replace the broken ones?
I have found the nipples, DT Swiss hidden pro lock

Do I use grease or oil on the spokes before I turn the nipples on them? I have got Copper grease, cyclon assambly paste, Shimano bearing grease, WD40
And do I have to grease the head of the nipple where it touches the rim?

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

copper grease is the best of what you have it stops corrosion.

Timmy269
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by Timmy269

bm0p700f wrote:
Sat Feb 03, 2018 2:56 pm
copper grease is the best of what you have it stops corrosion.
Is Assambly paste not the same?

by Weenie


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wheelbuilder
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by wheelbuilder

Timmy269 wrote:
Sat Feb 03, 2018 3:17 pm
bm0p700f wrote:
Sat Feb 03, 2018 2:56 pm
copper grease is the best of what you have it stops corrosion.
Is Assambly paste not the same?
No. Assembly paste has gritty fibers in it and is for mating carbon parts to reduce torque value and prevent slippage. Copper Grease is known as "Anti-Seize" in other parts of the world. DO NOT use assembly paste.

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