The wheelbuilding thread
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Hello, I'm planning to build a wheelset with:
2015 Reynolds attack tubeless clincher rim (366/380g weighted) (20/24)
Bartime Fs500/Rs101
Sapim Cx ray/ Pillar 1420
What you guys thought about that and how would it compare to racing zero/ racing zero carbon?
Thanks
2015 Reynolds attack tubeless clincher rim (366/380g weighted) (20/24)
Bartime Fs500/Rs101
Sapim Cx ray/ Pillar 1420
What you guys thought about that and how would it compare to racing zero/ racing zero carbon?
Thanks
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start with looking at the internal width of the rim, it depth and profile. you can make judgements about the relative stiffness of the rims and ride quality.
Aside from the over size flange the bar time hub is fairly conventional. given the DS spokes will be shorter than normal there will be a small improvement in lateral stiffness but it is small.
Aside from the over size flange the bar time hub is fairly conventional. given the DS spokes will be shorter than normal there will be a small improvement in lateral stiffness but it is small.
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Hi everyone! A few months ago I finished my first wheel build, a CX set with cheap DT swiss rims. I've decided to build up a deep carbon set now, is there anything special I need to do (in prep or build) when working with carbon rims? These are LB CX46 rims. Thanks for the help!
2017 Cervélo S3
2016 Santa Cruz Stigmata
2016 Santa Cruz Stigmata
No, not really. You'll probably be more carefull not to overtighten the nipples. But the rims can take quite a lot, so no worries.7ducati wrote: ↑Fri Jun 08, 2018 8:38 pmHi everyone! A few months ago I finished my first wheel build, a CX set with cheap DT swiss rims. I've decided to build up a deep carbon set now, is there anything special I need to do (in prep or build) when working with carbon rims? These are LB CX46 rims. Thanks for the help!
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Hey everyone, I am building up my first set of wheels (ahhh!) and have concluded on a majority of the parts except the rims themselves. I am 95kg so I need something that can withstand my weight day in and day out as well as live in a very flat area right next to the beach. So far I have decided on these parts:
Rims: ???
Hubs: DT Swiss 350 (28/24) + 54T Ratchet Upgrade
Nipples: Sapim Brass
Spokes: Sapim CX-Sprint
Skewers: KCNC Titanium
Tires: Vittoria Corsa Evo CX 25c
I am interest in going carbon, but fine with going aluminum.
Rims: ???
Hubs: DT Swiss 350 (28/24) + 54T Ratchet Upgrade
Nipples: Sapim Brass
Spokes: Sapim CX-Sprint
Skewers: KCNC Titanium
Tires: Vittoria Corsa Evo CX 25c
I am interest in going carbon, but fine with going aluminum.
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For rims kinlin xr31t/rt. Regardless of what others say about other rims, the kinlin are simply well made and reliable. They are also consistently round and very stiff.
Use a different hub to improve lateral stiffness. Also DT swiss hubs need the ratchet ring removing to get to the DS rear bearing.
I'd go with miche primato hubs. You could use hope hubs. The DT hubs will work but I can see you have fallen into the more clicks is better trap.
Use a different hub to improve lateral stiffness. Also DT swiss hubs need the ratchet ring removing to get to the DS rear bearing.
I'd go with miche primato hubs. You could use hope hubs. The DT hubs will work but I can see you have fallen into the more clicks is better trap.
Last edited by bm0p700f on Mon Jun 25, 2018 5:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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EXACTLY.. amen.
Thing is.. the extra rubles per each build do not give the desired amount of compensation for those that build wheeelz for their livelihood.
Then the 'brand snoots'... check to that. $$ into the economy works.
Litespeed 2000 Appalachian 61 cm
Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
Kinlin XR31T as others mention have a very good reputation. Haven't tried them, but others who have give them very good feedback. And they are not gonna break the bank either.
If you're going carbon, just pick some rims from the Farsports website, that you like width, depth and shape wise. They are very good and reliable as well. Very good bang for buck. If you pick something of at least 38 mm in depth, you have no problem going 20/24 spokes config either. I have been at around your weight, and have ridden Farsports rims of that depth without issues.
But regarding that ratchet upgrade - just why??
If you're going carbon, just pick some rims from the Farsports website, that you like width, depth and shape wise. They are very good and reliable as well. Very good bang for buck. If you pick something of at least 38 mm in depth, you have no problem going 20/24 spokes config either. I have been at around your weight, and have ridden Farsports rims of that depth without issues.
But regarding that ratchet upgrade - just why??
Is this a rim-brake build? If so +1 for Kinlin XR31T.
I wouldn't buy carbon rims for rim-brake application unless you don't ever need to stop quickly -- at least, that was 100% my experience with my Farsports rims. Nice otherwise. But now that I am all disc-brake, I love running carbon rims. Light Bicycle is another great option. High-quality stuff.
And agreed that a 54t ratchet upgrade is money better spent elsewhere (e.g. lighter spokes) for a road bike. (For a mountain bike the engagement points are actually useful; they do nothing for a road bike except change the sound of your freewheeling.)
I would use Laser spokes (lighter) or CX-Ray if you want the aero look (or the 1w advantage they carry).
I wouldn't buy carbon rims for rim-brake application unless you don't ever need to stop quickly -- at least, that was 100% my experience with my Farsports rims. Nice otherwise. But now that I am all disc-brake, I love running carbon rims. Light Bicycle is another great option. High-quality stuff.
And agreed that a 54t ratchet upgrade is money better spent elsewhere (e.g. lighter spokes) for a road bike. (For a mountain bike the engagement points are actually useful; they do nothing for a road bike except change the sound of your freewheeling.)
I would use Laser spokes (lighter) or CX-Ray if you want the aero look (or the 1w advantage they carry).
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Well I have carbon rims that stop like alloy rims with the right pads. So no point in condemning a rim material because some manufacturers don't know what brake pads work best with there rims or have not work out the resin mix yet.
I have never tried a farsport rim to comment about them specifically.
I have never tried a farsport rim to comment about them specifically.
HOzan spoke threader pet peeve here.
Need experts advice. I have the Hozan C700 spoke threader with a 14-15 gauge SShead.
On some spokes, especially the "old" black straight gauge spokes, seems like the threads aren't going deep enough in the spoke. If I tighten the head nut, it kind of "crushes" the metal (compared to a new spoke threads), and it doesn't hold as tight in the nut, especially if it's an alloy nut.
So what's the correct way to set the threader, to thread a few Sapim CX-Ray Black spokes to get nice deep threads, but not "crushed" ?
Thanks for the tips
Louis
Need experts advice. I have the Hozan C700 spoke threader with a 14-15 gauge SShead.
On some spokes, especially the "old" black straight gauge spokes, seems like the threads aren't going deep enough in the spoke. If I tighten the head nut, it kind of "crushes" the metal (compared to a new spoke threads), and it doesn't hold as tight in the nut, especially if it's an alloy nut.
So what's the correct way to set the threader, to thread a few Sapim CX-Ray Black spokes to get nice deep threads, but not "crushed" ?
Thanks for the tips
Louis
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I believe if a 'seller' is pushing plastic rims out the door they have the responsibility to KNOW what brake pad is correct for that product. The buyer should pass on the 'fly by night' types who do not have all their ducks in a row.bm0p700f wrote: ↑Thu Jun 28, 2018 10:53 pmWell I have carbon rims that stop like alloy rims with the right pads. So no point in condemning a rim material because some manufacturers don't know what brake pads work best with there rims or have not work out the resin mix yet.
I have never tried a farsport rim to comment about them specifically.
Litespeed 2000 Appalachian 61 cm
Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
Farsports rims = blue brakepads. Wether you pick Reynolds Blue or the aliexpress blue ones doesn't matter. They will all stop the bike just as fast as with alloy rims.
I have three sets of farsports wheelsets, two of them with rimbrakes. Blue works very well. Black Prince or Yellow King don't work well on farstports rims.
I have three sets of farsports wheelsets, two of them with rimbrakes. Blue works very well. Black Prince or Yellow King don't work well on farstports rims.
Wiggle lifeline blue pads are also good, same as Reynolds I'd say. I use them on LB rims.
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I guess it's just a matter of perspective. The Farsports rims I had did not stop well at all with their supplied blue pads. Or, perhaps put another way, if you think those are adequate you should try better brakes. Lots of other factors, though; we have hills and crazy traffic. And at 80kg, I am not a light rider.Multebear wrote:Farsports rims = blue brakepads. Wether you pick Reynolds Blue or the aliexpress blue ones doesn't matter. They will all stop the bike just as fast as with alloy rims.
I have three sets of farsports wheelsets, two of them with rimbrakes. Blue works very well. Black Prince or Yellow King don't work well on farstports rims.