The wheelbuilding thread

[Orfitinho]

I recommend Roger Musson's book.

[Zen Cyclery]

@Svetty- Take a look at http://www.WheelBuilder.Org. Should have a plethora of information for you.

[wrcompositi]

I recommend Roger Musson's book.

^^^ This for general wheel building practices and Jobst's book for supplementary theories and principles.

Also Wheel Fanatyk is definitely worth a visit: http://www.wheelfanatyk.com/wheelbuilding-library/

[MikeK]

190 lbs. Archetype rims and CX-RAY spokes. Should I go with 28/32 or 24/28? If 24/28, radially lacing in the front or stick with two cross.

Thanks

[btompkins0112]

24/28, radial front would suit you fine.

[bm0p700f]

24 front radial is fine so is 2 cross which do like the look of most. 28 spoke rear is fine too 2x or 3x.

[rich00]

Hi all,

Looking at building my first carbon wheel set. I've built several alloy wheels and feel quite comfortable doing so, main config has been xr270 front 24 2x and rear 28 2x DT comps. I use these wheels for crits and general riding mainly flat or undulating terrain. I weigh 82kg/ 183lbs and have had no issues with my builds and build them as per Roger Musson's approach. I'm wanting to try carbon clinchers out either 38 or 50 in the wide shape from China. I'm wondering if I can get away with building with DT comps front 20 radial and rear 24 2x with novatec hubs, these will be budget wheels. Also when finishing off the wheel bringing it to final tension is it a must to use a spoke tension gauge? As the process I used previously was by sound and by tensioning and stressing the wheel until it lost it's trueness then back off 1/2 a turn. Concerned that carbon rims can hold a higher tension and don't want to risk pulling a spoke through.

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Rich

Sent from my XT905 using Tapatalk

[bm0p700f]

You will get away with Laser spokes same diameter at the elbow so same fatigue resistance. The rims are more than stiff enough for Laser's.

Carbon rims will take 1200N mostly, some more. I would not even try to tension a alloy rim to it limit. 1200N unless there is a max tension set by the manufacturer which is less. More tension serves no purpose. The only rim I have had not settle down at 1200N is the Velocity A23 OC that seems to max out at 1100N and the DT Swiss RR415 can not take more than 1100N without risk of the rim cracking down the line. Front wheels do not need as much tension either 1000N is enough. 1200N is for the DS rear.

I use a spoke tension gauge to set the final tension and to ensure it is even to with in +/-5% Tone may work but I am tone deaf and it does not tell me the tension I am at.

[pushstart]

If you don't have a spoke tension gauge, you might want to consider the iPhone app (if you have one of those), as that uses the frequency but calculates tension (using length of spoke). I use a Park tension gauge (and don't have an iPhone), but these aren't especially accurate or precise (approx +/-10% based on comparing results from 4 meters owned by friends).

I am also about to build a carbon wheelset for the first time. Similar build, using LB U45 rims with Novatec hubs and CX Ray spokes. The rim mfr will typically list the tensions -- both max and recommended. My Farsports wheels were built with tensions of 90kgf front and 135kgf rear.

[rich00]

If you don't have a spoke tension gauge, you might want to consider the iPhone app (if you have one of those), as that uses the frequency but calculates tension (using length of spoke). I use a Park tension gauge (and don't have an iPhone), but these aren't especially accurate or precise (approx +/-10% based on comparing results from 4 meters owned by friends).

I am also about to build a carbon wheelset for the first time. Similar build, using LB U45 rims with Novatec hubs and CX Ray spokes. The rim mfr will typically list the tensions -- both max and recommended. My Farsports wheels were built with tensions of 90kgf front and 135kgf rear.

Noticed that there is a spoke tension app for android. So will try that out on an existing set of wheels.

I'm looking at a similar build to what you have quoted, I'd be interested to see how you go.

[synthesis]

I would like to recommend the book The Art Of Wheel Building if it has´nt been mentioned before, it´s written by Gerd Schraner and can be found at DT Swiss homepage. I was lucky to attend a course he held in Germany in the late 90ties. I´we been using his technique for almost 15 years now as a mechanic.

[liam7020]

I would like to recommend the book The Art Of Wheel Building if it has´nt been mentioned before, it´s written by Gerd Schraner and can be found at DT Swiss homepage. I was lucky to attend a course he held in Germany in the late 90ties. I´we been using his technique for almost 15 years now as a mechanic.

+1 on that recommendation

[eric]

What's good about that book? Can you compare it to other books?

[synthesis]

Compared to the Robert Musson book, I feel it gives better instructions for both the beginner and seasoned wheel builder. It´s also very definitive in it´s explanations on how to build a wheel in the right manner, this is how it´s done, and the only way it´s done. I for one like that, if I build my wheels using this technique I know they can´t be better.

[WMW]

It's been a long time since I've read any of those books, but I don't recall being that impressed with Schraner... as in incomplete and wrong in some areas. Jobst has some interesting info but his is very old, and he also makes some mistakes. I thought Musson was the best of the lot for a novice.

Mike T has a good wheelbuilding site. He is a regularly contributor to RBR but I don't think he is on WW.

http://miketechinfo.com/new-tech-wheels-tires.htm