The wheelbuilding thread

Wheels, Tires, Tubes, Tubeless, Tubs, Spokes, Hookless, Hubs, and more!

Moderator: robbosmans

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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.

If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Multebear
Posts: 1395
Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm

by Multebear

pushstart wrote:
Sat Jun 30, 2018 11:50 am
Multebear wrote:Farsports rims = blue brakepads. Wether you pick Reynolds Blue or the aliexpress blue ones doesn't matter. They will all stop the bike just as fast as with alloy rims.

I have three sets of farsports wheelsets, two of them with rimbrakes. Blue works very well. Black Prince or Yellow King don't work well on farstports rims.
I guess it's just a matter of perspective. The Farsports rims I had did not stop well at all with their supplied blue pads. Or, perhaps put another way, if you think those are adequate you should try better brakes. Lots of other factors, though; we have hills and crazy traffic. And at 80kg, I am not a light rider.
You're probably right about it being a matter of perspektive. I'm 90 kg, and have done a lot of trips to mountaines parts of europe. I've done a lot of descending, and I'm a pretty aggressive descender. I haven't had any problems at all. Even a trip op and down Col de la Madone in pooring rain wasn't a problem. I don't find the braking better on my DT Swiss R460 alloy rims.

by Weenie


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pushstart
Posts: 461
Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:12 am

by pushstart


Multebear wrote: You're probably right about it being a matter of perspektive. I'm 90 kg, and have done a lot of trips to mountaines parts of europe. I've done a lot of descending, and I'm a pretty aggressive descender. I haven't had any problems at all. Even a trip op and down Col de la Madone in pooring rain wasn't a problem. I don't find the braking better on my DT Swiss R460 alloy rims.
It sounds like they must have revolutionized the braking surface at Farsports, since I had & got rid of my wheels. I rember having to find extra "runway" to avoid hitting cars that would suddenly stop because the brakes were so crappy and laughing about it to my friends.

And reading the reviews at the time I realized I wasn't alone in this experience. I'm glad your experience was different, though; it wasn't that much fun.

Now, of course, I'm spoiled and can't appreciate anything inferior to hydraulic disc.

Multebear
Posts: 1395
Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm

by Multebear

pushstart wrote:
Sat Jun 30, 2018 7:04 pm

It sounds like they must have revolutionized the braking surface at Farsports, since I had & got rid of my wheels. I rember having to find extra "runway" to avoid hitting cars that would suddenly stop because the brakes were so crappy and laughing about it to my friends.

And reading the reviews at the time I realized I wasn't alone in this experience. I'm glad your experience was different, though; it wasn't that much fun.

Now, of course, I'm spoiled and can't appreciate anything inferior to hydraulic disc.
The ones I have are with the basalt braketrack whatever that is, besides an upgrade of the braketrack of some sort. But I really can't fault the braking and after +10k km on both sets, there's still hardly any visible wear. Hydro discs sounds awesome :thumbup:

pushstart
Posts: 461
Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:12 am

by pushstart

That (the basalt) might be the key difference. I had their high-temp resin rims and this was probably 6ish years ago now.

Yeah, hydro is great!
Multebear wrote:
pushstart wrote:
Sat Jun 30, 2018 7:04 pm

It sounds like they must have revolutionized the braking surface at Farsports, since I had & got rid of my wheels. I rember having to find extra "runway" to avoid hitting cars that would suddenly stop because the brakes were so crappy and laughing about it to my friends.

And reading the reviews at the time I realized I wasn't alone in this experience. I'm glad your experience was different, though; it wasn't that much fun.

Now, of course, I'm spoiled and can't appreciate anything inferior to hydraulic disc.
The ones I have are with the basalt braketrack whatever that is, besides an upgrade of the braketrack of some sort. But I really can't fault the braking and after +10k km on both sets, there's still hardly any visible wear. Hydro discs sounds awesome Image

alcatraz
Posts: 4064
Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

Quick question...

When building a rear wheel and using a spoke tensionometer...

Do you set the target tension with an inflated tire/tube?

It would mean that when the wheel is deflated the tensions are actually higher than the maximum allowed.

bm0p700f
in the industry
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Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
Contact:

by bm0p700f

tension is set without the tyre. you tension as much as the rim can handle.

yes carbon rims have come along way in the last 6 years.

Marin
Posts: 4035
Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:48 am
Location: Vienna Austria

by Marin

Some carbon rims have very high max spoke tension - Light Bicycle for example allow 1800N. So you better stick to the max your spokes will allow ;)

alcatraz
Posts: 4064
Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

Thanks... I'll set it to whatever is lower then.

I'm getting a calibrated tensionometer soon. I feel I need it because I'm going to be using relatively few spokes and a heavier than average rider.

If I can't keep the wheel true I'll switch the drive side spokes to something beefier.

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Beaver
Posts: 796
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2004 6:06 pm

by Beaver

I am currently running 24 CX-Ray spokes in the rear. It is alright so far for my 70kg, but it's lacks the feeling of Fulcrum wheels when accelerating.

Easiest (and "heaviest") way would be 24 CX-Sprint spokes, but has anyone tried a combination with 12 CX Super spokes on the nds or as pushing spokes?

Multebear
Posts: 1395
Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm

by Multebear

Beaver wrote:
Tue Jul 03, 2018 7:44 am
I am currently running 24 CX-Ray spokes in the rear. It is alright so far for my 70kg, but it's lacks the feeling of Fulcrum wheels when accelerating.

Easiest (and "heaviest") way would be 24 CX-Sprint spokes, but has anyone tried a combination with 12 CX Super spokes on the nds or as pushing spokes?
70 kg and 24 spokes rear on carbon wheels should be more than enough, unless you push +1500 watts while accelerating.

Maybe they need retensioning??

I don't know which Fulcrum wheels you compare with, and I don't know how they feel. But I ride 24 spokes rear as well, and I'm 10-20 kg heavier and sprint +1500 watts with no issues wheels wise. Mine are DT Aerolites, but they are pretty much the same as CX rays.

TLN
Posts: 629
Joined: Wed Jul 12, 2017 4:50 pm

by TLN

Multebear wrote:
Tue Jul 03, 2018 8:22 pm

70 kg and 24 spokes rear on carbon wheels should be more than enough, unless you push +1500 watts while accelerating.

Maybe they need retensioning??
Speaking about retensioning. How often I should do that, or perform some mainteance on my wheels. I have no issues with wheels at the moment, but was riding em for 1 year and did no mainteance/re-tensioning. I've noticed they're out of true, but just a little.
His: Orbea Orca OMX
Hers: Cannondale Synapse HM Disc

Marin
Posts: 4035
Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2014 11:48 am
Location: Vienna Austria

by Marin

True then when it's needed, and check spoke tensions from time to time. If tension is ok you don't need to do anything.

Multebear
Posts: 1395
Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm

by Multebear

Well-laced wheels shouldn't need much retensioning. And they definitely shouldn't need tightening of the spokes. Most wheels will need truing in order to remove small side to side bumps. And this depends on your riding style and how carefull you treat them. If you slam your bike through all the potholes, you can find, then you probably need to look after them every 2-3 months. You'll know when the wheels aren't true. But riding with wheels with tiny side to side bumps doesn't hurt.

andydarcy
Posts: 14
Joined: Thu Jul 12, 2018 9:27 pm

by andydarcy

Hi Guys
After months of saving up i got a set of Carbon TI Road Hubs,
oh great I thougth - ive done the research looked high and low even check on here for information.
the set up i want is
H + Sons Archtype rims with sapim cx ray spokes.
I do have the front rim already and i got the sapim spoke nipples as well these are the 14mm versions
my weight is a 90 - 92 kg depending on the usual
my riding is mostly in Yorkshire so a lot of asending and desending cracking :)..
Today ive sent out 3 emails to various wheel building guys and got a mixed bag of info back
1 said to use a different rim - as the H + would not last long or the wheel would "fall apart"
1 said - "pass" and said to look on the Carbon TI web site for the spoke length ( a cop out)
1 said to wait for the new versions with more spkoke counts ie 28r - 24f.

maybe my internet research went wrong somewhere, i hope not as i wanted a nice super light pair of wheels that i could ride from March to September then leave to the next year..
if not
I have a brand new pair of Carbon TI Red hubs for sale.. and a brand new Extralite front hub up for sale..
regards
Andy

bm0p700f
in the industry
Posts: 5777
Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
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by bm0p700f

Yes Marin tension asuch as the rim or nipple can handle. You can stop at 1300n though. More tension may damage the nipple and that means failure.

Spokes should not loose tension in service. They can if the wheel is not properly stressed when building i.e stressing the spokes sufficient my that they are loaded way more that you can manage from pedalling or breaking. If that is not done then the spoke will need on when you ride meaning the wheel will go out and the tension will drop.

by Weenie


Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓    Broad Selection ✓    Worldwide Delivery ✓

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