Measure outer width with uninflated tire & then at high pressure. If it doesn't get much wider you're still goodMultebear wrote: ↑Sun Oct 31, 2021 3:31 pmI have this homebuild wheelset, with 240 hubs and R460 rims. The front rim is pretty worn. But I'm not sure, if it's time to replace it yet, or if I can get a couple of hundred km's out if it. The wet season is full on here in northern EU. So I guess I better be safe than sorry. But I can't seem to find out, how much wear this is. Is anyone familiar with wear on R460 rims?
The wheelbuilding thread
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The R460 has wear indictor dots roughly opposite the valve hole on each side of the rim. If you can't see the dots, then you should bin them. I thought I'd get away with using a worn rim on the turbo since I wouldn't ever be adding to the wear, but one day out of the blue the rear rim exploded during a session and I almost collapsed with fright. I also had a Mavic Open Pro UST rim fail in the same way (bead separating from rim) while I was inflating it, and that one hadn't really looked all that badMultebear wrote: ↑Sun Oct 31, 2021 3:31 pmI have this homebuild wheelset, with 240 hubs and R460 rims. The front rim is pretty worn. But I'm not sure, if it's time to replace it yet, or if I can get a couple of hundred km's out if it. The wet season is full on here in northern EU. So I guess I better be safe than sorry. But I can't seem to find out, how much wear this is. Is anyone familiar with wear on R460 rims?
I just recently picked up a cheap Iwanson guage to help make this kind of decision on rims that don't have wear indictors. Seems there is quite a lot of variation in the thickness of new rims (1.1 to 1.5 mm on mine) and a very worn rim like yours was measuring around 0.7 mm. I like the idea of Marin's test to show rims are too far gone if they start to bow out under pressure.
One thing is sure: you don't get this kind of fun with disc brakes.
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Silver lasers on the front will look great IMO, and brass nipples (in silver) are the sensible choice IMO. I've build a few sets with Open Pro USTs, DT R460s and Ambrosio P20s. The Open Pro USTs (old glossy model) build into a classy looking lightweight wheel, the R460s have a good bit more material around the brake track and are a fair bit cheaper then the Mavics. The P20s have a wide 20 mm internal profile and build into really stiff wheels: they're great value from Spa Cycles. All 3 are good rims and all will work with or without tubes.DieselCondor wrote: ↑Thu Oct 28, 2021 8:28 amHello WW, I am looking for some rim choice advice on my upcoming new wheel build. I am a strong 98kg rider and I look after my kit. My spec so far:
32h Campagnolo record hubs (black ones)
Sapim Race in the rear
Sapim laser in the front
Alloy polyax nipples.
I am stuck over rim choice. I would like a sprightly wheelset and think a shallow rim would look best. I usually run clinchers and latex tubes although I am considering (maybe) tubeless in the future.
I am considering Kinlin XR22RT/T, mavic open pro ust 21 and as an out there choice- mavic open pro tubular. What do you think?
Also do you think black spokes and nipples or silver spokes and nipples?
I learned this on my Winter bike where the V-brakes would start dragging when I topped up the air
This is good stuff. Thanks.
I measured the rim with my vernier caliper, and it was:
uninflated: 22.70 mm
at high pressure around 75 psi: 23.15 mm
What to take from that difference? Is it too much to keep riding? Bin the rim?
I took a real close look at the rim. And I actually found that wear indicator dot. It suggests there are some miles left in the rim yet.
@Marin you will be pleased to know, that the rim will sit on one of your bikes
Oh wow!
Hello.
I am currently thinking about a custum wheelset- nothing too crazy about weight as I do have a price limit of 1000-1200 EURO.
I was wondering if actually I could have better components highly durable - strong - easy-to-service bearings and wheelset.
Could you help me ? Please.
I was recommanded to consider those wheels...
- DTSwiss ER1400 DICUT
- HUNT 30 CARBON ALL-ROAD
- VISION TRIMAX 25 DISC
- Fulcrum Rapid Red 3
- Zipp 303S
Multi-Days Longue-distance Ultralight Bikepacking -- Not oriented Performance or Strava KOM at all
Mixed routes (mostly road for Climbs+++ - and a 'little' bit Gravel path)
Mix of GRX / Ultegra mechanical (still have to think hard about Di2...)
700c Disc CenterLock / 28-32+mm Tire / Tubeless
24 Front / 28 Rear Spokes (not sure if 32/32 would be pertinent)
Front Axle: 12x100 / Rear Axle: 12x142mm
Rims: I am between DTSwiss, Duke, Hunt
Spokes/Nipples: Sapim but if there are better option I'm open.
Hub: Clearly have no idea I am looking for sealed, easy-to-service, reliable, I am thinking about DTSwiss, Hope, Bitex, Extralight Not sure if ceramic bearings will be okay for me, but if it's highly interesting.. why not.
Here's my little Homework - price are in EURO not taxes - shipping cost exclued.
I will look after components choice first - weight. Price is a bit difficult as I will buy it in December or January.
I am currently thinking about a custum wheelset- nothing too crazy about weight as I do have a price limit of 1000-1200 EURO.
I was wondering if actually I could have better components highly durable - strong - easy-to-service bearings and wheelset.
Could you help me ? Please.
I was recommanded to consider those wheels...
- DTSwiss ER1400 DICUT
- HUNT 30 CARBON ALL-ROAD
- VISION TRIMAX 25 DISC
- Fulcrum Rapid Red 3
- Zipp 303S
Multi-Days Longue-distance Ultralight Bikepacking -- Not oriented Performance or Strava KOM at all
Mixed routes (mostly road for Climbs+++ - and a 'little' bit Gravel path)
Mix of GRX / Ultegra mechanical (still have to think hard about Di2...)
700c Disc CenterLock / 28-32+mm Tire / Tubeless
24 Front / 28 Rear Spokes (not sure if 32/32 would be pertinent)
Front Axle: 12x100 / Rear Axle: 12x142mm
Rims: I am between DTSwiss, Duke, Hunt
Spokes/Nipples: Sapim but if there are better option I'm open.
Hub: Clearly have no idea I am looking for sealed, easy-to-service, reliable, I am thinking about DTSwiss, Hope, Bitex, Extralight Not sure if ceramic bearings will be okay for me, but if it's highly interesting.. why not.
Here's my little Homework - price are in EURO not taxes - shipping cost exclued.
I will look after components choice first - weight. Price is a bit difficult as I will buy it in December or January.
@Marin in your experience, how critical are these numbers?
Since the indicator is visible it hast to be ok! My rims bent so much that they closed the gap to the brake pads...
Hello,
I have a trailor on my commuting bike that I use to take my kids to daycare/school. I have noticed that over time the spokes in the wheels of the trailor started becoming loose. Not all to the same extend, but some fell out of the nipple while others still had good tension. If these were regular bicycle wheel I could true them in my truing stand. But how do I handle wheels that only have an axle on one side?
You can find pictures here: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-an ... 92435.html
My quick-fix was to tighten the spokes to equal tension. But I was hoping that there was a better way. Since there is quite a bit of sideway force on the wheels when I go around corners I expect that I will have to keep tightening the spokes rather regularly.
thanks for your help and ideas!
joerg
I have a trailor on my commuting bike that I use to take my kids to daycare/school. I have noticed that over time the spokes in the wheels of the trailor started becoming loose. Not all to the same extend, but some fell out of the nipple while others still had good tension. If these were regular bicycle wheel I could true them in my truing stand. But how do I handle wheels that only have an axle on one side?
You can find pictures here: https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-an ... 92435.html
My quick-fix was to tighten the spokes to equal tension. But I was hoping that there was a better way. Since there is quite a bit of sideway force on the wheels when I go around corners I expect that I will have to keep tightening the spokes rather regularly.
thanks for your help and ideas!
joerg
I am considering building a new wheelset for my disc-brake do it all bike. Currently i have a pair of farsports feder 45mm deep and 21int/28ext width on a 24h front and rear carbon ti hubset. It's light, the vittoria corsa control 28s measure some 29ish mm. Ride is really good to be honest with the latex tubes i use.
Why change? since i intend to ride 28mm (indicated, not measured) tyres at a minimum on this bike I thought i might be able to drop the pressure even further with a slightly wider base.
Will i notice a difference if i go to say WR50 rims from lightbicycle? or go deeper still and try wr65?
Any thoughts?
Why change? since i intend to ride 28mm (indicated, not measured) tyres at a minimum on this bike I thought i might be able to drop the pressure even further with a slightly wider base.
Will i notice a difference if i go to say WR50 rims from lightbicycle? or go deeper still and try wr65?
Any thoughts?
Hi there,
Can anybody tell me please, what length should i go for the front wheel, if DT, actually, doesn't produce an Aero Comp spokes in 257mm length?
With rear wheel, everything seems to be more understandable - 260mm and 264mm, am i right? However, wouldn't it be better to go with 266 instead of 264 for the rear, left side, since the Accurate is 265.5 - which is way closer to 266, than 264. Or is it fine cuz i'm using 14mm nipples all around, which is longer option than regular 12mm nipples?
Thank you
Can anybody tell me please, what length should i go for the front wheel, if DT, actually, doesn't produce an Aero Comp spokes in 257mm length?
With rear wheel, everything seems to be more understandable - 260mm and 264mm, am i right? However, wouldn't it be better to go with 266 instead of 264 for the rear, left side, since the Accurate is 265.5 - which is way closer to 266, than 264. Or is it fine cuz i'm using 14mm nipples all around, which is longer option than regular 12mm nipples?
Thank you
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www.starbike.com
It's always better to round down. You don't want your spokes to long.berest wrote: ↑Wed Nov 24, 2021 2:06 amHi there,
Can anybody tell me please, what length should i go for the front wheel, if DT, actually, doesn't produce an Aero Comp spokes in 257mm length?
With rear wheel, everything seems to be more understandable - 260mm and 264mm, am i right? However, wouldn't it be better to go with 266 instead of 264 for the rear, left side, since the Accurate is 265.5 - which is way closer to 266, than 264. Or is it fine cuz i'm using 14mm nipples all around, which is longer option than regular 12mm nipples?
Thank you