The wheelbuilding thread

Everything about building wheels, glueing tubs, etc.
long19000
Posts: 14
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2016 2:45 pm

by long19000

Hello, I'm planning to build a wheelset with:
2015 Reynolds attack tubeless clincher rim (366/380g weighted) (20/24)
Bartime Fs500/Rs101
Sapim Cx ray/ Pillar 1420

What you guys thought about that and how would it compare to racing zero/ racing zero carbon?
Thanks

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

start with looking at the internal width of the rim, it depth and profile. you can make judgements about the relative stiffness of the rims and ride quality.

Aside from the over size flange the bar time hub is fairly conventional. given the DS spokes will be shorter than normal there will be a small improvement in lateral stiffness but it is small.

by Weenie


7ducati
Posts: 99
Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2011 8:34 pm

by 7ducati

Hi everyone! A few months ago I finished my first wheel build, a CX set with cheap DT swiss rims. I've decided to build up a deep carbon set now, is there anything special I need to do (in prep or build) when working with carbon rims? These are LB CX46 rims. Thanks for the help!
2017 Cervélo S3
2016 Santa Cruz Stigmata

Multebear
Posts: 1086
Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm

by Multebear

7ducati wrote:
Fri Jun 08, 2018 8:38 pm
Hi everyone! A few months ago I finished my first wheel build, a CX set with cheap DT swiss rims. I've decided to build up a deep carbon set now, is there anything special I need to do (in prep or build) when working with carbon rims? These are LB CX46 rims. Thanks for the help!
No, not really. You'll probably be more carefull not to overtighten the nipples. But the rims can take quite a lot, so no worries.

wolfesquire
Posts: 199
Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2011 3:03 am

by wolfesquire

Hey everyone, I am building up my first set of wheels (ahhh!) and have concluded on a majority of the parts except the rims themselves. I am 95kg so I need something that can withstand my weight day in and day out as well as live in a very flat area right next to the beach. So far I have decided on these parts:
Rims: ???
Hubs: DT Swiss 350 (28/24) + 54T Ratchet Upgrade
Nipples: Sapim Brass
Spokes: Sapim CX-Sprint
Skewers: KCNC Titanium
Tires: Vittoria Corsa Evo CX 25c

I am interest in going carbon, but fine with going aluminum.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

For rims kinlin xr31t/rt. Regardless of what others say about other rims, the kinlin are simply well made and reliable. They are also consistently round and very stiff.

Use a different hub to improve lateral stiffness. Also DT swiss hubs need the ratchet ring removing to get to the DS rear bearing.

I'd go with miche primato hubs. You could use hope hubs. The DT hubs will work but I can see you have fallen into the more clicks is better trap.
Last edited by bm0p700f on Mon Jun 25, 2018 5:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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WinterRider
Posts: 440
Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2013 2:46 pm

by WinterRider

bm0p700f wrote:
Sun Jun 24, 2018 11:32 pm
Form rims kinlin xr31t/rt. Regardless of what others say about other rims, the kinlin are simply well made and reliable. They are also consistently round and very stiff.
EXACTLY.. amen.

Thing is.. the extra rubles per each build do not give the desired amount of compensation for those that build wheeelz for their livelihood.

Then the 'brand snoots'... check to that. $$ into the economy works. :thumbup:

Multebear
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Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm

by Multebear

Kinlin XR31T as others mention have a very good reputation. Haven't tried them, but others who have give them very good feedback. And they are not gonna break the bank either.

If you're going carbon, just pick some rims from the Farsports website, that you like width, depth and shape wise. They are very good and reliable as well. Very good bang for buck. If you pick something of at least 38 mm in depth, you have no problem going 20/24 spokes config either. I have been at around your weight, and have ridden Farsports rims of that depth without issues.

But regarding that ratchet upgrade - just why??

pushstart
Posts: 460
Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:12 am

by pushstart

Is this a rim-brake build? If so +1 for Kinlin XR31T.

I wouldn't buy carbon rims for rim-brake application unless you don't ever need to stop quickly -- at least, that was 100% my experience with my Farsports rims. Nice otherwise. But now that I am all disc-brake, I love running carbon rims. Light Bicycle is another great option. High-quality stuff.

And agreed that a 54t ratchet upgrade is money better spent elsewhere (e.g. lighter spokes) for a road bike. (For a mountain bike the engagement points are actually useful; they do nothing for a road bike except change the sound of your freewheeling.)

I would use Laser spokes (lighter) or CX-Ray if you want the aero look (or the 1w advantage they carry).

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Well I have carbon rims that stop like alloy rims with the right pads. So no point in condemning a rim material because some manufacturers don't know what brake pads work best with there rims or have not work out the resin mix yet.

I have never tried a farsport rim to comment about them specifically.

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LouisN
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Location: Canada

by LouisN

HOzan spoke threader pet peeve here.
Need experts advice. I have the Hozan C700 spoke threader with a 14-15 gauge SShead.
On some spokes, especially the "old" black straight gauge spokes, seems like the threads aren't going deep enough in the spoke. If I tighten the head nut, it kind of "crushes" the metal (compared to a new spoke threads), and it doesn't hold as tight in the nut, especially if it's an alloy nut.
So what's the correct way to set the threader, to thread a few Sapim CX-Ray Black spokes to get nice deep threads, but not "crushed" ?

Thanks for the tips :beerchug:

Louis :)

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WinterRider
Posts: 440
Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2013 2:46 pm

by WinterRider

bm0p700f wrote:
Thu Jun 28, 2018 10:53 pm
Well I have carbon rims that stop like alloy rims with the right pads. So no point in condemning a rim material because some manufacturers don't know what brake pads work best with there rims or have not work out the resin mix yet.

I have never tried a farsport rim to comment about them specifically.
I believe if a 'seller' is pushing plastic rims out the door they have the responsibility to KNOW what brake pad is correct for that product. The buyer should pass on the 'fly by night' types who do not have all their ducks in a row.

Multebear
Posts: 1086
Joined: Sat May 02, 2015 10:11 pm

by Multebear

Farsports rims = blue brakepads. Wether you pick Reynolds Blue or the aliexpress blue ones doesn't matter. They will all stop the bike just as fast as with alloy rims.

I have three sets of farsports wheelsets, two of them with rimbrakes. Blue works very well. Black Prince or Yellow King don't work well on farstports rims.

Marin
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Location: Vienna Austria

by Marin

Wiggle lifeline blue pads are also good, same as Reynolds I'd say. I use them on LB rims.

by Weenie


pushstart
Posts: 460
Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:12 am

by pushstart

Multebear wrote:Farsports rims = blue brakepads. Wether you pick Reynolds Blue or the aliexpress blue ones doesn't matter. They will all stop the bike just as fast as with alloy rims.

I have three sets of farsports wheelsets, two of them with rimbrakes. Blue works very well. Black Prince or Yellow King don't work well on farstports rims.
I guess it's just a matter of perspective. The Farsports rims I had did not stop well at all with their supplied blue pads. Or, perhaps put another way, if you think those are adequate you should try better brakes. Lots of other factors, though; we have hills and crazy traffic. And at 80kg, I am not a light rider.

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