Glueing tubulars [the tubular thread]

Everything about building wheels, glueing tubs, etc.
fdegrove
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by fdegrove

Hi,

It's not really optimized for carbon rims but other than that I find it to work fine even though I prefer Mastik One.
Oh yeah...Tubasti is like some cheese. It does rend to string....

To remove it I found White Spirit to work just fine.

Note sure how the new Vitto's base tape's going to respond to that but when in doubt I'd just leave it on and put a coat of your fav rim cement on top of it.
Not ideal but still better than messing about with solvents IMO.

Ciao, :wink:
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

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djconnel
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by djconnel

2002SaecoReplica wrote: Is there a way to get the tubasti off the tubular so that I can reglue it with mastik one? .


Some advice from Hed and Zipp via Zinn.

by Weenie


2002SaecoReplica
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by 2002SaecoReplica

Maybe you missed the part where I was talking about the tubular...as in the tire. I had the rim sorted out a long time ago...
- Zipp rims will break if you look at them too hard
- R-Sys wheels will spontaneously explode
- The ZG crankset will never, ever exist
- Everyone needs Lightweights, even if they're fat and old
- Parts actually made of metal are SO 10 years ago

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djconnel
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by djconnel

Well, I'd stay stick with the glue already on there. Mixing glues is a bad idea: the interface between the glues may not adhere well. Al Morrison's rolling resistance tests show that regluing fails to measurably increase Crr, so if you're not trying to replace all the present glue, there's usually not a pressing need to strip the glue.

fdegrove
Tubbie Guru
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Location: Belgium

by fdegrove

Hi,

From past experience Tubasti and Vitoria Mask One don't really mix to well so they don't really interfere much either.
While I certainly won't advocate using several rim cements mixed together, I'd rather leave the bit of glue on tubular for what it is rather than introduce some agressive solvents to remove it.

BTW, I don't think Tubasti glue "sucks". It does tend to "web" though and as such is rather a PITA to use.

Ciao, :wink:
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

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djconnel
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by djconnel

Comparison data of Tubasti versus Mastik is available here. Yes. It sucks.

But bad enough to warrant a massive project? I know a guy who rides with no glue at all. Compared to that, Tubasti is excellent.

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hockinsk
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by hockinsk

Might be wrong, but i'm sure I read somewhere that 70% of the force holding a tubular on is simply the air pressure. I know i've ridden on barely glued tubs and not had any problems. Don't like doing it one bit though!

fdegrove
Tubbie Guru
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Location: Belgium

by fdegrove

Hi,

djconnel wrote:Comparison data of Tubasti versus Mastik is available here. Yes. It sucks.

But bad enough to warrant a massive project? I know a guy who rides with no glue at all. Compared to that, Tubasti is excellent.


Tubasti glue isn't half as bad as it seems when properly applied, trust me.
It does work well with aluminium rims but does not stick great to carbon ones.

Besides, that study is way too old to be meaningful anyway.
Moreover, I think the way you glue your rim is more important than the glue you use...

Ciao, :wink:
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

robmitchell
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Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2006 10:24 pm

by robmitchell

Hi,

I have an Edge Carbon tubular rim.

What is the best chemical to use to clean off the old glue to apply a new tire?

How much old glue do you tolerate before cleaning and starting over?

robmitchell
Posts: 40
Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2006 10:24 pm

by robmitchell

Hi,

I have some acetone and scotch brite pads and a plastic scraper.

How long does it take per wheel?
How much acetone?

I have been working on it an hour with little progress.
Just a green gooey glue mess.

2002SaecoReplica
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Location: Getting dropped

by 2002SaecoReplica

There is this stuff you can buy at home depo, or any home improvement store I'm sure, called "goo gone" that works well. I've used it on zipp, reynolds and shimano carbon rims. Takes old glue off but leaves the rim bed unharmed.
- Zipp rims will break if you look at them too hard
- R-Sys wheels will spontaneously explode
- The ZG crankset will never, ever exist
- Everyone needs Lightweights, even if they're fat and old
- Parts actually made of metal are SO 10 years ago

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rc32
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by rc32

2002SaecoReplica wrote:There is this stuff you can buy at home depo, or any home improvement store I'm sure, called "goo gone" that works well. I've used it on zipp, reynolds and shimano carbon rims. Takes old glue off but leaves the rim bed unharmed.


Don't use Goo-Gone. It's citrus based and too mild for this task.It works well for removing residual glue from the braking surface but not built up glue from the rim bed.

You have to use Goof-Off, which is basically Xylene. You'll find it in the paints and paints remover section at Home Depot. I've said this before...Zipp recommends Goof Off for removing glue from their rims.

Wear gloves, mask and have a lot of ventilation...it is nasty.

2002SaecoReplica
Posts: 1944
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by 2002SaecoReplica

^^^This is really good stuff too.
- Zipp rims will break if you look at them too hard
- R-Sys wheels will spontaneously explode
- The ZG crankset will never, ever exist
- Everyone needs Lightweights, even if they're fat and old
- Parts actually made of metal are SO 10 years ago

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Frankie - B
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Location: Drenthe, Holland

by Frankie - B

It has been said before, but white spirit works a treat! It works perfect on Conti glue and Tubasti.

the rim was clean within half an hour.

Then after two layers of glue the conti went on like a dream. Now I only have to wait for my FMB cotton strada to come in. To do it all over again.
'Tape was made to wrap your GF's gifts, NOT hold a freakin tire on.'

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kavitator
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Location: Slovenia---that forest land

by kavitator

well now i take some of your ideas and i glued tubulars 6 times in around 2 months.

in steps:
1.strech tubular (if you have time inflitate it to max for 1 day)
2.cut that material around walve with very sharp knife
3.with fingers,piece of paper or plastic put glue (Vittoria Mastic) on rim (on all surface in thin layer
4.spray little water on all glue
5.start with tubular on valve...and constantli strech it around rim(movie from velonews)
6.inflitate tubular on around 1,5-2bars
7.roll wheel on road to sattle down tubular
8.inflitate it to its max pressure (so water gets out)

that is around 20min of work and wheels is perfect true

i use Vittoria EVO CX 320TPI




:D

by Weenie


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