Weight Weenies

that's should be a good width on lw

i've found there's a huge difference in handling between veloflex sprinter (22mm) and criterium (23mm) on the front wheel, just that tiny difference completely changes how the wheel behaves in stronger wind (35km/hr upwards) and changing yaw angle

must admit i've incorrectly posted on ww that lw wheels 'catch' in the wind, but they only do it if the tyre is too wide, that 22-23 transition is where it all goes wrong

skinny tyres ftw

sungod wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 03, 2018 7:50 pm

that's should be a good width on lw

i've found there's a huge difference in handling between veloflex sprinter (22mm) and criterium (23mm) on the front wheel, just that tiny difference completely changes how the wheel behaves in stronger wind (35km/hr upwards) and changing yaw angle

must admit i've incorrectly posted on ww that lw wheels 'catch' in the wind, but they only do it if the tyre is too wide, that 22-23 transition is where it all goes wrong

skinny tyres ftw

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Calnago wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 03, 2018 2:46 pm

Completely flat? Definitely would need to add air but I wouldn’t think they’d be completely flat. Yes, I’d be checking the extension joint (I use Teflon plumbers tape and tighten before install) and also check the valve core just to be sure it’s snug and not leaking.

It's already installed now with an extension with removable valve core. Can I just use the valve core ledge to tighten the whole extender onto the valve stem?

Yes. That has worked for me. One of these tools, like Campagnolo sells in a harder plastic, should do the trick without rounding out.

gramsqueen wrote:

Calnago wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 03, 2018 2:46 pm

Completely flat? Definitely would need to add air but I wouldn’t think they’d be completely flat. Yes, I’d be checking the extension joint (I use Teflon plumbers tape and tighten before install) and also check the valve core just to be sure it’s snug and not leaking.

It's already installed now with an extension with removable valve core. Can I just use the valve core ledge to tighten the whole extender onto the valve stem?

The trouble with tightening the extension by using the valve core ledge is that the valve core itself will become very tight, making removal (without unscrewing the extension along with it) difficult. And you will want to be able to remove just the core in the event of a puncture where you want to add sealant. If you can get a grip on the extension itself with some pliers that may be a better way to go but you have to be cognizant of just how much you’re actually twisting the tube inside the tubular. Best way obviously is to get the extension on tight and leakproof before mounting the tubular, as doing that once it’s glued with no more access to both sides makes it more difficult. But you should still be ok as long as you’re a little more diligent in ensuring that things are tight enough for now, and chalk it up to experience for next time.

I got some new DT Swiss RC38T DB wheels for my disc build, and I can deside if I should glue on 25 or 28mm Corsa-s on them. The wheels are only 21mm.
On my old rim brake tubulars I hade 25mm corsa on 23mm rim, and that was ok. Would 28mm corsa be too much for only 21mm wide rim?

using such a wide tyre will be poor aerodynamically, you'll have a lightbulb' profile, on fast corners i'd also expect the tyre to squirm

unless you are going wide to ride on poor surfaces i can't see any benefit to putting wide tyres on these rims

on those rims, for road i'd fit veloflex sprinter on the front and criterium on the rear

Roads here are not the best, so would not like to go under 25mm. Would there be a need for wider tires with disc brakes compared to rim brakes, or is there no difference?

will post it here, maybe someone needs a new set of tubulars


if anyone interested in a set of mavic cosmic pro carbon sl t (tubular) brand new at good price, PM me.

wheels are brand new, retail accesories incl mavic 25c tubes (850€ for Europe, 1000$ worldwide, paypal and shipping incl.) can do also ebay sale

While ago one expert who had been working with rolling resistance tests, said that in order to have best possible CRR you should use very little glue..

Any other opinions?

Well, I use Vittoria Mastik One and I find that one thin layer on the rim, and one thin layer on the base tape... then set aside overnight to cure... Next day: one more thin layer on the rim to make it easier to mount and straighten provides a super strong bond. It's contact cement... activated by pressure. It's why you can carry around a preglued tire all folded up and it doesn't become stuck together so bad that you can't unfold it to mount. But when you try to remove it after it's been inflated and ridden on, it's surprising just how strong a bond has been created. It just needs a layer to bond to on each surface. Any more layers than that is just building up an unnecessary bed of thickness inbetween the tire and rim, and in the event it does get super overheated... too much glue when softened could create a squishy pool of soft glue for the tire to rub around on. That's not what I want. As it is, it still takes me a good 15 minutes to remove a tire glued that way, short of ripping it off and risking pulling some carbon fiber away in the process... not a good removal method to use on carbon rims. Just follow the instructions that Vittoria outlines for it's Mastik One and you'll be fine, better than fine. I've experimented with more layers, and the bond is no better, and arguably worse if things get really hot for the reason I just described. As for rolling resistance... well, you be the judge, I'm sure less is more in that regard but really...

Hey guys. As some of you know, I've always used tape on my three sets of Lightweights but had my AXs glued by my LBS. unfortunately I had a side wall puncture so I debated for a while if I should trying glueing on a new tyre myself or use tape, the quick and easy way. The WW in me decided to glue, well it is lighter, So I bitt the bullet and bought some Vittoria Mastic one and will attempt my first ever glue job soon. Just pre stretching the tyre atm. I'm hoping the process goes smoothly or the piles of tape I've stashed aside will get used. Lol.
From reading this thread and the advice I've been given it doesn't seem to harder job, but I am bloody useless with any bike related stuff.
On another note I've managed to get my hands on 4 tubes of calnagos favourite very hard to get hold off schwable glue remover from a retailer in Sydney. Very happy about that as these are by far the best at removing old stubborn glue.
Now just need to build up my confidence and start gluing.

I've transitioned from a taper to a gluer in the last year or so. Right now I feel like gluing is, in fact, easier. Just have to pay a little more attention to your process (not to make a mess of it, literally) and remember to pre-stretch the tires (not to make the actual installation too hard).

When I used only tape, I always dreaded the moment of uninstallation. Usually taped tires stick to the rim really hard, and the tape (or layers of it) end up sticking to the rim or the tire randomly. With glue, you can decide how much of the stuff you put on and whether you leave "weak spots" to aid in uninstallation.

When I purchase new tub carbon rims I usually rough up the glueing surface with a brillo pad to enable the glue to stick better. I normally only apply two layers to the rim and one layer to the tire. I know it may seem risky but I have never had any issues. When I first started running tubs I tried tape but didnt like it as much as glue. I have glued only since that time and its always Vittoria glue.
I have a new set of Bora Ultra 35 in need of glueing. Cant wait to get my first ride on them.

Its so easy to center the tyre with tape though. You have all the time in the world. I'm assuming you don't have long with glue. I must admit I'm a little nervous but also looking forward to giving it a go. My main worry is getting glue all over the brake track whist trying to mount the tyre. I'll leave the tyre stretching for another week, something I never needed to do when using tape. Obviously it does have it's advantages.

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