if you're doing 60kph on tyres with circumference 2.132m, a 6g imbalance at 0.3m from axis would give about 3.6 newtons force
the wheel be 'lifting' then 'pushed down' ( and pulled forward/back/etc.) by the equivalent of c. 370g almost 8 times a second
assuming most weight is on the rear, it's the front that will be most affected, but that's still likely to be only 2-3% at most of the total downforce on the front wheel, so it's not going to lift off
it's the extent by which this force causes the tyre/etc. to deform that will determine how much vibration is caused
assuming i didn't mess up the sums, i doubt it's going to get close to the vibration from the road surface
agreed, but only if the imbalance is big enough wrt the system weight
If it makes a difference then it matters. It's about time we take the minor imperfections out of our bikes, wouldn't you agree.
We strive for perfection, do we not?
I agree it's an imperfection, and I'd definitely like to correct it. If nothing else it's annoying.
Could also be the set of sh*tty tubs currently mounted as I wait for some Vittoria Corsa CX. I'll let you know if it goes away with a set a proper tubs mounted.
adding balancing weights also offends my inner ww, but if i could get some negative masses, hmm...
Is Vredestein tubular cement just rebadged Mastik? The can even has the same light purple color...?
Given that most Vredestein tubulars are manufactured at the same plant as Vittoria it would not come as a surprise if their cement is similar. I'd doubt it to be the exact same formula though.
When in doubt, use Masitk One. At least that's my motto.
Also, I mounted 3 Vittora Pavè CG (24mm) over the weekend for a club mate. Very easy to work with, and seemed to fill out the Zipp 303 "pavé", i.e. last gen. before Firecrest pretty well. Much better than the Veloflex Extremes he insisted on (also for gravel roads, pssst! flap flap flap) last year.
Generally speaking it's not worth it to buy a can of glue unless you plan on gluing up dozens of tubs.
Once the can is open the solvents start to flash off.
Since you'll likely spill some glue on the can's edges it will then no longer be hermetically sealed allowing more of the solvents to evaporate.
The glue will eventually become thicker and thicker making it harder to spread on the rim bed.
the last can i had was ok for about 4-5 months, i took care when refitting the lid, then the last 4-5mm got very thick, as above probably i'd got too much dried glue on the rim by then
but i'd used almost the whole can, so it was worthwhile vs. tubes
Have either of you (or anyone else) tried transferring it to a squeeze bottle, as I've seen some mechanics do? I imagine that would eliminate the problem, as the small surface area of the tip could easily be cleaned off with solvant before recapping. This would have the added benefit of making application easier.
->clean with acetone/gently sand
->apply thin layer on the whole rim on the center and sideways and leave it to dry for a few hours
->apply a second thin layer on the rim and leave dry again
->apply a layer on the basetape and mount it on the wheel while centering it fast
->pump tires to 130 psi and leave to cure for at least 24h
Now about the spare tyre, how long do you leave the glue dry before you fold it? And do you fold it glue to glue?
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