Glueing tubulars [the tubular thread]

Everything about building wheels, glueing tubs, etc.
tetonrider
Posts: 92
Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2010 3:38 am

by tetonrider

sungod wrote:just de-glued my first wheel with the glue remover that fdegrove mentions here...

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=72309&start=2460#p939436" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


i've been unsuccessful in finding some for purchase. mind if i ask where you got yours?

thank you!

tetonrider
Posts: 92
Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2010 3:38 am

by tetonrider

zedliang wrote:Oh I forgot. I'm using mastik one on zipp 404 rims and vittoria corsa evo cx tires.


i've mounted and installed that combination (404 + mastik 1 + evo cx) a number of times and never have i seen the issue you describe. obviously, that is not a ton of data, but i suspect something specific to your environment (whether that is pre-installation contamination or something occurring during your ride such as over-lubing the chain as suggested).

tetonrider
Posts: 92
Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2010 3:38 am

by tetonrider

tetonrider wrote:
sungod wrote:just de-glued my first wheel with the glue remover that fdegrove mentions here...

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=72309&start=2460#p939436" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


i've been unsuccessful in finding some for purchase. mind if i ask where you got yours?

thank you!


i phoned schwalbe north america this morning. they told me they will not be getting the tubular glue remover because they are unable to get it through customs.

Andyst1
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2013 1:39 pm

by Andyst1

strobbekoen wrote:I put mine on a rim at 120-140 psi and reinflate them every day. I keep them on for a couple days before glueing.

Put your base layers on the new rim real thin. It's easier to put more on than to take a messy job off the rim. Just take your time.

After that, I just use one layer on tire and rim and put it on as quickly as possible, inflate to about 60-80 psi, just by feeling so you can center the tire quickly. I quickly center the tire by the 'blind man method' :lol: run my hands across the brake track and feel where the tire is off. After that, spin the wheel and check again.

Just takes a bit of practice really. You'll have to do it until you get comfortable with it.




Thats how I do it too.. :beerchug:

Also to remove the access glue I use acetone. Its not as harsh white spirit

Geoff
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Location: Canada

by Geoff

But it isn't anywhere near as effective (many would say, ineffective)...

sungod
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by sungod

tetonrider wrote:i've been unsuccessful in finding some for purchase. mind if i ask where you got yours?

thank you!


i got it from germany, i think they'll ship to usa, but you'll need to see if shipping costs are ok...

http://www.bike-discount.de/?lg=en&country=227&cr=USD#

fdegrove
Tubbie Guru
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Location: Belgium

by fdegrove

Hi,

Also to remove the access glue I use acetone. Its not as harsh white spirit


Don't know why this keeps popping up but I'll repeat it one more time:

Acetone is to degrease rims with. On a new rim to remove mold release residues or after you've removed an unwanted layer or rim cement from a rim with some chemical that leaves a mildly greasy deposit on the rim bed: diesel oil, white spirit (aka Stoddard solvent) and other mineral spirits tend to do that.

It has no use for removing rim cement as it simply flashes off too fast to have an effect.

Ciao, ;)

P.S. As for Schwalbe's rim cement remover crossing the pond: I'm surprised to learn Schwalbe hasn't thought this through and have it made in the US for the US market instead of trying to export it and have it stopped (one wonders why) at customs.
Somehow that excuse has a false ring to it if you'd ask me.....
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

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Calnago
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by Calnago

I got the same response from the US distributor a few months ago when I wanted to try it out. It's hard to get anything like that through customs these days with all the security checks and restrictions on flammable products etc.
I did find a product by Klean Strip ("America's #1 Stripper Brand") simply called Adhesive Remover that I thought might be very similar to Schwalbe's product. Gel like and thick, you put it on and let it work for a while. Supposed to remove "adhesives, mastics and contact cement". Maybe I didn't give it a fair shake but it was making a goopy mess and so I just went back to using Goof-Off which works really well.

But yes, acetone does nothing for actually removing glue.
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fdegrove
Tubbie Guru
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Location: Belgium

by fdegrove

Hi,

Politics aside, let's make sure that whatever is used to remove rim cement (or contact adhesives in general as some of the die hard TT setups use industrial adhesives as well) do not contain toluene as that is one of the few chemicals that actually do attack the epoxy in the CF composite.

I thought Goof-off does contain toluene, not sure though. Anyway, mind your health as well....

Ciao, ;)
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

gb103
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Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2011 8:07 pm

by gb103

Hi, i am after some advice on the level of difficulty in removing a tub. I apply 3 layers on the rim and two on the tub, then mount (hypernon wheels with vittoria tubs). I have only removed a couple of tubs which usually ends up with me struggling for a good 10 minutes, building up a sweat and blistered thumbs if I really go for it!!

Is this normal? Or am I putting the glue on too thickly? I only ask because I have read that people say they are quicker to replace a tub than a clincher.

Any advice most helpful.

Geoff
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Location: Canada

by Geoff

That is a good indication of a decent job. In the comfort of your basement, it is probably a lot harder to get the tire off. In a race, you won't even remember you had to change it...

fdegrove
Tubbie Guru
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Location: Belgium

by fdegrove

Hi,

Is this normal? Or am I putting the glue on too thickly? I only ask because I have read that people say they are quicker to replace a tub than a clincher.


It can be quicker but it does take some experience. Basically you need to have an eye for where the weakest spots can be: spoke hole areas are your most obvious targets.
Keep in mind also that some of us build in some weak spot just for the purpose of being quick in changing a tub.
It usually involves an easy to remember spot, right opposite the valve, at a spoke hole for instance, that receives no cement on the the tub's base tape. Just an example.
It doesn't need to be be more than say half an inch, just enough so you can worm a plastic tyre lever between the rim and the tub to get started.
Don't worry, it's perfectly safe. It takes a lot of odd forces to actually roll a tub.

Thick layers of cement are actually even easier but unwanted as they take like for ever to fully cure and up rolling resistance since they just stay too soft. Too much room for minuscule movements creating losses.

Ciao, ;)
Last edited by fdegrove on Mon Jan 28, 2013 3:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

sungod
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Location: it's raining, it must be uk

by sungod

i've had the same thumb-blistering experience removing a tyre

now i carry a lezyne matrix lever, one is enough, it's light, strong, won't damage a cf rim and the end is blunt enough to avoid damage to basetape or sidewall

once started, the lever can be slipped through the gap so that it sticks out each side of the tyre and then slid along to release the glue

http://www.lezyne.com/products/tire-rep ... rix-levers

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canbakay
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Location: London

by canbakay

ordered the Schwalbe cement remover.

will try upload progress and see how well it works

(unless there are negative feedback, so far very little feedback but good)
Last edited by canbakay on Tue Jan 29, 2013 5:34 am, edited 1 time in total.

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canbakay
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by canbakay

double post

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