Glueing tubulars [the tubular thread]

[Roadrocket]

Thx! He used clear silicone, I was thinking rather about black silicone.

[Roadrocket]

Just thinking about my AC3 grooves on my Bora wheels, I really don´t want to fill them with silicone.
Probably I´ll have to cover it with some tape.

[cyclingmasterseller]

I've been riding tubulars now since 1986, and regardless of all manufactures CYA clauses, I can safely say that when initially gluing on tubulars, namely the continental comps and TTs, it is safe to say that applying one good layer of glue to a carbon rim is fine, letting it become super-tacky, then apply the slightly-stretched tubular and pump up to around 80psi, make alignment adjustments, then fill to 170psi or more -- job done!
But the real time-saver is when you go to re-apply glue -- no need to do this every time, and yes it's safe not to. To my Lightweights I take a cotton cloth, douse it in white gas, then carefully rub the inner-rim with it until the glue becomes super-tacky once again, then quickly install your tubular. It has always worked for me, as I have tested over many years now. The key in making sure the tire pressure is filled to max after installation -- any less psi and you'll loose a tire for sure.

I run Continental Competition in the rear at 170psi and a Continental Podium TT in the front, also at 170psi -- both tires are 19mm wide, but grip extremely well on my 2007-8 Pinarello Dogma. Bike weighs in at 6.54kg. Frame is a 55cm, AK61 magnesium, all else is carbon. I am about to swap out my Arundel water bottle cages (35 grams each) for the newer and lighter cages by Lightweight (at 18 grams each).

Cheers.

[KCookie]

170psi, really. My pump doesn't even go that high. Surely that will be a really uncomfortable harsh ride.
I run 22mm on my Lightweights and pump to 95psi for rear 85 front.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

[atakaoka]

Hi any one has tried specialized glue? How does it perform?

[RichardL]

it is safe to say that applying one good layer of glue to a carbon rim is fine, letting it become super-tacky, then apply the slightly-stretched tubular and pump up to around 80psi, make alignment adjustments, then fill to 170psi or more -- job done!

One good layer of glue is okay if you just noodling around town and don't care about CRR. For time trials and road races, one layer of glue will cost you minutes. Pumping up the tires to 170 psi will also cost you time if you are not riding on smooth velodrome track.

[Catagory6]

guess i'll tack on this question here:

i have a tubular glued onto the front wheel. it has very low mileage. but i want to remove it, and glue it on to a rear wheel.
do i need to remove the old glue from the tire, and reapply new glue?
just reapply new glue over the old?
or just simply mount onto the glued up rear rim?

and what about using citrasolv or goo-gone to remove glue?

[Geoff]

I guess the best answer is: "it depends...".

If you pull the tire off the rear and the glue layer looks good (i.e., still adhered well to the rim bed and not blotchy with lots of bits pulled-off on the basetape), that would be a good sign. The next question is whether or not that glue is contaminated. Where I am, by the time Spring comes-around the tire and rim interface can become contaminated with grime and road salts that soak-in to thr basetape ('cross tires, too). You will have to look at your rim bed carefully to see. Lastly, the basetape for the tire you seek to re-mount can also be similarly contaminated. Check to see if the basetape is fairly clean of old glue (which it should be if the original glue job was perfect). If everything looks good, you should be able to just re-apply glue to the basetape (I like to put another, very thin, layer on the rim bed just befor installing the tire).

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

[RichardL]

and what about using citrasolv or goo-gone to remove glue?

You can use Goo Gone or Goof Off to remove old glue. Just let it sit for several hours to allow it to soften the glue, then scrape off the glue with your fingernail or popsicle stick. Be sure to use alcohol to clean off the Goo Gone.

[Catagory6]

I guess the best answer is: "it depends...".

If you pull the tire off the rear and the glue layer looks good (i.e., still adhered well to the rim bed and not blotchy with lots of bits pulled-off on the basetape), that would be a good sign. The next question is whether or not that glue is contaminated. Where I am, by the time Spring comes-around the tire and rim interface can become contaminated with grime and road salts that soak-in to thr basetape ('cross tires, too). You will have to look at your rim bed carefully to see. Lastly, the basetape for the tire you seek to re-mount can also be similarly contaminated. Check to see if the basetape is fairly clean of old glue (which it should be if the original glue job was perfect). If everything looks good, you should be able to just re-apply glue to the basetape (I like to put another, very thin, layer on the rim bed just befor installing the tire).

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

and what about using citrasolv or goo-gone to remove glue?

You can use Goo Gone or Goof Off to remove old glue. Just let it sit for several hours to allow it to soften the glue, then scrape off the glue with your fingernail or popsicle stick. Be sure to use alcohol to clean off the Goo Gone.

thanks

the front tire that's being removed will be going on a brand new rear wheel.
but now i'm thinking that i should use that front tire as a spare if i get the "F-word" out on the road

cheers!

[Geoff]

I still think that, if your original front wheel glue-job was done well and that the basetape is in good condition (without too much old glue on it), then you can just re-glue it on the new rear.

Goof-Off and other solvents can certainly be used to remove tubular glue from rims. Paint thinner works, too. In all cases, use that stuff out-of-doors in a well-ventilated area. Either would work to clean that old front wheel if you need to. Again, if the glue job was well done to begin with and the glue is not contaminated, you should be able to re-glue a new tire without removing the old glue.

Lastly, in the event that you are referring to cleaning the basetape of old glue, I would not recommend using any type of solvent to do that, as the basetape itself is adhered to the tubular casing via cement that could also be compromised by the use of a solvent.

[RichardL]

and what about using citrasolv or goo-gone to remove glue?

I have used Goo Gone to remove tubular glue before. However, I found that Effetto Mariposa Carogna Mastick/Glue Remover did a much better job with less smell/vapor and less gooey mess.

[sovereign]

Is anyone not removing Mastik One before mounting a new tire?

[KCookie]

This remover is excellent and doing its job if you can get hold of it. I know it's very hard to get but its definitely worth trying.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

[dj97223]

Is anyone not removing Mastik One before mounting a new tire?

I typically just scrape off loose pieces and dirt with a butter knife and re-glue with a very light coat. The new coat reactivates the old glue. If the old glue is very thick, I'd consider removing it, but once you start applying solvent, there's no turning back until it is clean (at least I wouldn't).