Glueing tubulars [the tubular thread]

[MikeMiranda]

I used this not sure hot accurate it is

http://www.dorkypantsr.us/bike-tire-pre ... lator.html

[Geoff]

I don't think that it makes too much sense to choose tire pressure based on some 'study' about 'real world' rolling resistance. The choice of tire pressure should probably be based primarily upon the conditions of the day and your riding style.

[rc32]

@bm0p700f

Another "trick" to use with Contis that might help you is to soak the base tape in water prior to stretching. Once the tires are stretched and the water dries out, they seem to "hold" their stretch better.

Another thing that might help is to keep a bare, clean rim handy and stretch the tire there AFTER you have applied glue to the base tape. The tire will barely stick to the rim as there is no glue on the rim . Once you apply the glue to the base tape , the base tape seems to shrink back a bit so stretching it again after applying glue just until the moment they're ready to mount helps a lot.

Mind you, this advice is for Conti tires. I have not have to perform these tasks with other brands.

[NoMütze]

hi again,

first, i'm very happy with my tubies performance.
however, a few questions arose after some miles of (ab)use.
1. i recently found a kind of delamination of the base tape on the side wall of one tire (Conti GP4000 SR)
between base tape and tire (see pics). i tend to run lower pressures 100-110psi...
now, is this a threat to the tire/rim connection? can i continue?? is it a faulty tire???

2. how shall i store tube-wheels? fully inflated ~120psi?? or half in between???

thanks for advice

[Geoff]

That does happen. In my experience, it has never been a problem. I was testing a pre-production GB 4000 tubular and had some cracking, but no base tape delimitation.

With respect to the storage of mounted tires, I typically store them rounded-out with up to 60 psi in them.

[Foo]

^^ X2 ^^

Foo

[fogflip]

First time poster long time lurker glued up my first tubulars the other day was inspecting them to day. I noticed on the same spot on both wheels there is a 2-3 inch section which didn't bond fully right where the valve stem is. Is this a common error? Is it ok to just toss some glue in these spots or take tire off and start over. thanks.

[fdegrove]

Hi,

First of all, welcome aboard.

Yes, it is quite common and no, one just can not toss some rim cement in there and hope the problem will go away.
Rim cement being a contact adhesive you can't just put some glue on and hope it will work.

That said, the stem area can be problematic with some tyre/rim combinations. E.g. the base tape overlap can be on the thickish side and the stem hole in the rim on the narrow side.
Either way, the glue job should be properly done and there should be no hop at the valve area.

Ciao,

[thisisatest]

if it was just at the valve for about an inch, id see the possibility it was tire-related. but since it's such a long section, im of the opinion that, when being mounted, the tire wasnt being stretched on before that section of tire hit the glue. it's basically a slack part of tire.

[antifocus]

Hi,

I've searched quite a bit but still not much info, so I guess I'll ask here.
Is it okay to use turpentine as Vitto Mastik One thinner or remover? This is the cheapest and easiest sovent I can find locally, the other is some paint stripper which I would assume it is not safe for carbon rim?

BTW: I've read about 50 pages in this thread, still a lot of catching up to do!

[fdegrove]

Hi,

All rim cements are formulated to work optimally as is so do not use any thinner or other chemicals to "revive" old layers on a rim or a tin of cement that dried up a bit.

In many countries synthetic terpentine would be the same as White spirit (Stoddard solvent) so yes, that should work on most cements. I still find that plain household petrol (diesel fuel) works best with Vittoria's Mastik One though.

Most chemicals, except for those containing toluene, are safe (as in not doing any harm to the carbon composites) to use on carbon parts, just take the necessary precautions to protect yourself.

Ciao,

[antifocus]

Thanks fdegrove, helpful as always.

[Kayrehn]

just got the same problem with my vittoria tires on both wheels, no hopping over the valve area when rolling, but just a little disconcerting. I smeared dabs of glue into the gap with a pin and here's the result of - don't think it helps much but guess that's all I'm going to do with it.



Madfiber wheels are a breeze to glue on too btw, no worries about getting glue into spoke holes.

[Werdna]

Thanks again for all the information in this thread!
I switched from Vittoria Rallys to Evo CX's today (after the rally started to develop a bubble in the tread)
The tire swap really made a difference, they ride much smoother and obviously feel faster.

[Peter_E]

I have a pair of Tufo cyclocross tubulars that I have glued to a pair of Bontrager XXX lite carbon tubulars. I have used Continental glue for carbon rims (black tin). The problem is that they don't seem to to stick that well. Have used plenty of glue so that is not the problem. I have glued quite a lot of tire-rim combos in the past so I am not that useless either.
Now to the question. Can I reglue them using Vittoria Mastik that I think work better. Does it matter that there is carbonglue on tires and rims? The carbon glue is quite dry so I could probably get rid of most of it from the rims but the tires will have som left.
Grateful for any input.
Peter