Glueing tubulars [the tubular thread]
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Orange sealant works on butyl tubulars. Had a rear puncture this Monday, close to my house. Continental Competition was the tire. Wasn't a total flat in 10 sec. but more like 1 Km. 20 ml sealant and all was fine, so this tire can be worn out.
Thanks guys.
Just one more question...do you guys carry a full sized pump? I've read mixed opinions about using CO2 with Orange Seal. And, if it comes down to putting on a spare then using a mini pump to get to ~120psi (for the minimal glue to work properly) would be a nightmare.
Just one more question...do you guys carry a full sized pump? I've read mixed opinions about using CO2 with Orange Seal. And, if it comes down to putting on a spare then using a mini pump to get to ~120psi (for the minimal glue to work properly) would be a nightmare.
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I used to carry a full-sized frame-fit pump for decades. Since I almost never get flats, I have kind of gotten lazy and only take a minipump. The minipumps can put a pretty good amount of pressure in (enough to get home!) I can't imagine needing to put 120 psi in a tubular, though. I have never tried to use an inflator before.
I always use co2, normally the punctured tyre will only hold about 60 psi but that is plenty to get home, or in my case I just keep riding.velov wrote:Thanks guys.
Just one more question...do you guys carry a full sized pump? I've read mixed opinions about using CO2 with Orange Seal. And, if it comes down to putting on a spare then using a mini pump to get to ~120psi (for the minimal glue to work properly) would be a nightmare.
I got home after a ride last week with only 40psi, rode like that for about 40km.
Was a soft ride.
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Gluing tubular observation:
Just glued a new set of tubulars.
Continental Competition ALX Pro LTD 25 mm.
MAn ! This basetape litterally "drinks" Mastik One ! I spent nearly 1/3 tin on one thin layer.
Nothing to do with standard black Conti basetape.
LOuis
Just glued a new set of tubulars.
Continental Competition ALX Pro LTD 25 mm.
MAn ! This basetape litterally "drinks" Mastik One ! I spent nearly 1/3 tin on one thin layer.
Nothing to do with standard black Conti basetape.
LOuis
I used Conti glue on these... but you're right. For the complete glue job I've used two tubes ( total 50 gram ) of glue I guess, one layer on tubular and rim and then after 24h another layer on the rim. But they ride so much better than the Conti Competition with butyl innertube.
Black gunk of glue developes on rear rim. Any idea why it doesn't happen on front rim? Shouldn't the Mastik One dry out and shouldn't be tacky like this?
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
Rear wheels are dirtier in general, I would assume that it is rim/pad residue.
Tubular glue should stay somewhat pliable and tacky to work. If it was rock hard (epoxy), it would lose all of its adhesion if and when the bond breaks (for example when heated enough). Tubular/contact glue softens and reattaches itself.
Tubular glue should stay somewhat pliable and tacky to work. If it was rock hard (epoxy), it would lose all of its adhesion if and when the bond breaks (for example when heated enough). Tubular/contact glue softens and reattaches itself.
It's disc brake. If it's caused by brake pad dust then the front should also see the same thing but not in this case.Singular wrote: ↑Sat Oct 03, 2020 9:16 amRear wheels are dirtier in general, I would assume that it is rim/pad residue.
Tubular glue should stay somewhat pliable and tacky to work. If it was rock hard (epoxy), it would lose all of its adhesion if and when the bond breaks (for example when heated enough). Tubular/contact glue softens and reattaches itself.
I had other tubular wheels in the past. The excessive Mastik One on the tire was hard and brittle and didn't turn black like this.
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
I think it happens mainly on the rear wheel is because of 70% of the weight of the rider is on the rear wheel. So pressure on the glue layer is bigger on the rear wheel. ... but it's just a science thought.
My opinion is there is grease and/or degreaser involved in the drivetrain and drivetrain maintenance (degreaser or thinner will soften the glue).
Sooner or later some of it "flies" from the drivetrain and some goes on the sides of the rim, and "contaminates" the glue pouring out.
If you use a heavy "soap" to keep your tires clean, it might add to the "problem" too.
Louis
Sooner or later some of it "flies" from the drivetrain and some goes on the sides of the rim, and "contaminates" the glue pouring out.
If you use a heavy "soap" to keep your tires clean, it might add to the "problem" too.
Louis
I use paraffin wax as chain lube so I don't need solvent to clean my drive train.LouisN wrote: ↑Sat Oct 03, 2020 8:50 pmMy opinion is there is grease and/or degreaser involved in the drivetrain and drivetrain maintenance (degreaser or thinner will soften the glue).
Sooner or later some of it "flies" from the drivetrain and some goes on the sides of the rim, and "contaminates" the glue pouring out.
If you use a heavy "soap" to keep your tires clean, it might add to the "problem" too.
Louis
Occasionally I use soap but they are not heavy nor strong.
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
Yea it makes sense, but that doesn't explain why the black color instead of dark brown I have seen on my other wheels.
I think the Mastik One formula is the same between the tin and tubes?
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
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I wish vittoria, veloflex etc would leave it bare like conti, stop paiting that silly seal on the basetapes. I'd very much prefer to do my own impregantion with glue. When i tear a tire off a lot of the failure happens beween cloth and seal. Of course this prevents a failure in between tape and casing but these days most tubulars are removed to be binned not repaired. For a while i tried to sand / file / scrape the seal but it is too much work...
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