Tubular Repair
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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- Posts: 256
- Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2017 6:05 pm
Used tufo sealant for the first time this week. It worked extremely well with quite a pronounced slice horizontally across the crown of the tire.
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quick question on sewing techniques and questions. i had a nice puncture on my veloflex that sealant couldn't fix. I bought a velox tubular repair kit already and so i've peeled away the base tape to expose the threading.
before i go off and cut, how do you keep the thread connected to the new one? do you just tie off the old thread on two ends once the section that need to be worked on is opened up? then once repaired, sew up the open section with new thread?
also, i have park tools GP-2 Pre-Glued Super Patch Kit. can i just use that on the latex tubing and use the rubber patch to patch the rubber tire from inside?
before i go off and cut, how do you keep the thread connected to the new one? do you just tie off the old thread on two ends once the section that need to be worked on is opened up? then once repaired, sew up the open section with new thread?
also, i have park tools GP-2 Pre-Glued Super Patch Kit. can i just use that on the latex tubing and use the rubber patch to patch the rubber tire from inside?
when you sew it up, start the new stitching so that you overlap a couple of the existing stitches, at the other end do the same
try to use the old holes, it makes it much easier
i do a zigzag stitch along and then back to end up with stitching that looks like XXXXXXXXXXX then tie off the starting/ending threads with a small knot
get the inner cotton strip lined up correctly, this stops the inner tube rubbing on the edges/stitches - the strip originally is held with fine thread each side, just try to leave one side of it still held by the thread and it'll naturally stay in the correct position
when sewing up i pull the thread tight enough so the edges of the carcass are slightly pursed, this will look like it's too tight, but when inflated to high pressure the force pulls the stiches really tight and it flattens out so you get an even tub - if you have the stitching too loose the tub will end up fatter at the repair and the tube may fail as it rubs on the edges
i only ever use rema tiptop patches, i would never use self-adhesive ones, no idea how they are on latex tubes but on butyl tubes in clinchers i have had the self-adhesive ones eventually fail
btw when you get a tub that is worn out/ too bad to repair, don't throw it away - take it apart and save a length of carcass to use to patch larger cuts on the tub, i also keep some base tape as it can be used to repair an area of damaged base tape (i.e if it rips when taking off a tub), you can also use latex tube to make patches but i find it simpler to use the rema ones
try to use the old holes, it makes it much easier
i do a zigzag stitch along and then back to end up with stitching that looks like XXXXXXXXXXX then tie off the starting/ending threads with a small knot
get the inner cotton strip lined up correctly, this stops the inner tube rubbing on the edges/stitches - the strip originally is held with fine thread each side, just try to leave one side of it still held by the thread and it'll naturally stay in the correct position
when sewing up i pull the thread tight enough so the edges of the carcass are slightly pursed, this will look like it's too tight, but when inflated to high pressure the force pulls the stiches really tight and it flattens out so you get an even tub - if you have the stitching too loose the tub will end up fatter at the repair and the tube may fail as it rubs on the edges
i only ever use rema tiptop patches, i would never use self-adhesive ones, no idea how they are on latex tubes but on butyl tubes in clinchers i have had the self-adhesive ones eventually fail
btw when you get a tub that is worn out/ too bad to repair, don't throw it away - take it apart and save a length of carcass to use to patch larger cuts on the tub, i also keep some base tape as it can be used to repair an area of damaged base tape (i.e if it rips when taking off a tub), you can also use latex tube to make patches but i find it simpler to use the rema ones
I use Copydex, latex based rubber cement, widely available in UK.
Sungod, yes that the liquid in the velox kit.
Guess I need to find those adhesives that you guys mentioned about in US.
Found copydex and barge cement on Amazon.
Found this at local hardware store. Would this work?
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Guess I need to find those adhesives that you guys mentioned about in US.
Found copydex and barge cement on Amazon.
Found this at local hardware store. Would this work?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
In the past I've used Ados F2 (a contact adhevise) successfully enough. But now I have Selley Shoefix that I'm trying soon (this is also a contact adhesive and since it's for fixing shoes it has to be flexible plus I've bought it also for the stated purpose). I'll report back on my re-tubing of Conti Comp with Vittoria latex tubes (re-tubing successfully done , base tape to be re-fixed before being ridden).
Less is more.
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- Posts: 795
- Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2016 6:34 pm
- Location: Romania
Don't shoot me if its blasphemy, but why are base tapes used at all? Would mastik adhere poorly to the actual casing? I can see a reason for protecting the stitching when removing a tire for repair, but in case of a second installation where you might not hope for yet another , one could do without it? (at least for Continental. No-tape would certainly make a Veloflex way too loose) Ime the base tapes do not come super hard glued and they can easily fail before the mastik does (especially on Vittoria).
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