Lacing tubeless rims with no outer spoke holes - help needed!
Moderator: robbosmans
I've watched several videos of how to use magnets to get the nipples in place. The problem is, I don't have anything magnetic, that fits into a nipple.
1) is it possible to buy a complete set with magnet and bolt(s) for this kind of operation?
2) are there other ways of getting the nipple in place without magnets when building a new wheel?
1) is it possible to buy a complete set with magnet and bolt(s) for this kind of operation?
2) are there other ways of getting the nipple in place without magnets when building a new wheel?
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- jekyll man
- Posts: 1571
- Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 10:23 am
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Never done a full wheel, but replaced individual nipples on fulcrum rims using a length of solder.
Feed it through the hole, and guide it to the valve hole.
Pull the end out and stick a nipple on (the right orientation) and tie a knot in the solder.
Pull back slowly and when it gets to its destination, tease it out and hold with pliers.
Yank the solder and the end will fall back into the rim.
Start threading the spoke on, and shake the broken piece of solder back out of the rim.
Feed it through the hole, and guide it to the valve hole.
Pull the end out and stick a nipple on (the right orientation) and tie a knot in the solder.
Pull back slowly and when it gets to its destination, tease it out and hold with pliers.
Yank the solder and the end will fall back into the rim.
Start threading the spoke on, and shake the broken piece of solder back out of the rim.
Official cafe stop tester
I use a nipple insert made by Campagnolo that fits standard 2.0 mm nipples. I did have to slightly file down the diameter of the outer domed part though, or else it would not fit through the nipple holes on my particular rims (which were made by Farsports).
https://www.bike24.com/p2163195.html
But maybe there is a readily available standard screw size that could be modified in a similar way to fit a nipple and provide leverage for a magnet…
jekyll man wrote: ↑Wed Jun 08, 2022 10:27 amNever done a full wheel, but replaced individual nipples on fulcrum rims using a length of solder.
Feed it through the hole, and guide it to the valve hole.
Pull the end out and stick a nipple on (the right orientation) and tie a knot in the solder.
Pull back slowly and when it gets to its destination, tease it out and hold with pliers.
Yank the solder and the end will fall back into the rim.
Start threading the spoke on, and shake the broken piece of solder back out of the rim.
Thanks to you both. Both of them nice solutions.MayhemSWE wrote: ↑Wed Jun 08, 2022 11:09 amI use a nipple insert made by Campagnolo that fits standard 2.0 mm nipples. I did have to slightly file down the diameter of the outer domed part though, or else it would not fit through the nipple holes on my particular rims (which were made by Farsports).
https://www.bike24.com/p2163195.html
But maybe there is a readily available standard screw size that could be modified in a similar way to fit a nipple and provide leverage for a magnet…
No spokes around???
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- Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 9:18 pm
I've seen thread and a vacuum cleaner used as a home build option...
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- Posts: 121
- Joined: Sun Jun 30, 2013 6:05 am
Stainless has relatively weak magnetic properties. Threading stainless shifter cables internally using rare earth magnets was a fail for me when I attempted it recently.
I used a length of thread with a small screw tied to one end, which was inserted into the outer valve hole and pulled along to the spoke nipple hole with a strong magnet. I tied a fat knot at a distance along the thread so that a nipple could be fed onto the string and would just slide over the knot, which then held the nipple in place as the string was pulled through until the nipple came out the hole. A strong pull then pulled the knot through leaving just the nipple in place.
A tip to using this method is to leave a long section of thread after the knot in case something gets hung while pulling a nipple through so you can back it out if needed.
A tip to using this method is to leave a long section of thread after the knot in case something gets hung while pulling a nipple through so you can back it out if needed.
Hmm. Glue a piece of mild steel to a spoke?trailgumby wrote: ↑Sun Jun 12, 2022 8:20 amStainless has relatively weak magnetic properties. Threading stainless shifter cables internally using rare earth magnets was a fail for me when I attempted it recently.
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- Joined: Sun Jun 30, 2013 6:05 am
Hmm. Spoke hole is 4mm. Spoke is 2.00mm. Not a lot of room to play with and needs to be short so it can be oriented the way you want in a tight space. The magnetic Campy nipple insert posted above is about the only practial way I can see this is gonna be anything other than annoyingly time-consuming.Marin wrote: ↑Tue Jun 14, 2022 8:25 amHmm. Glue a piece of mild steel to a spoke?trailgumby wrote: ↑Sun Jun 12, 2022 8:20 amStainless has relatively weak magnetic properties. Threading stainless shifter cables internally using rare earth magnets was a fail for me when I attempted it recently.
https://www.bike24.com/p2163195.html
I'd use a small hex nut or even a small magnet superglued to a piece of spoke. 99% sure this would work
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I thought this was gonna be painful, but once I found a screw with the right diameter/size it was easy breazy.
Just thread the screw to the nipple, pop it in and lead it correct with a magnet.
Now...I just need to find the measurements for ya...
EDIT. It's 2-56, I found many options in like RC stores
Just thread the screw to the nipple, pop it in and lead it correct with a magnet.
Now...I just need to find the measurements for ya...
EDIT. It's 2-56, I found many options in like RC stores
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Waltly Gravel (stolen... and found!)
P-X Spitfire Ti
Fairlight Strael
Old
Canyon Ultimate SLX 6.7kg (crashed)
Tantan GR039 7.2kg (sold)