J&L Ceramic Bearings - would I regret this?

[Nickldn]

I need to change the bearings in my Easton aero wheels with Echo hubs.

The rear is especially rough. Not sure if it's gonna be possible to clean and re grease, as they are quite far gone. Front as OK so maybe re grease.

The rear hub contains 4 bearings, the front hub 2 bearings.

The original Easton bearings are quite expensive, but just about affordable.

If I get some cheap ceramic J&L bearings on ebay will I regret it:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source= ... kK9sd5vUtu

[kode54]

Try using NTN bearings in the correct sizes. I had ceramic bearings in the J&L jockey wheels that fell apart after a short season. The ball bearings were small with some play in it. Not sure about the wheel hub bearings but I would stick with premium steel ones.

[Nickldn]

I think you're right, these J&L bearings are just very cheap and I can't see them lasting a long time.

Wheel bearings (especially the rear) are under a lot of stress from the drive and bumps/potholes in the road. This will damage/wear weak bearings quickly.

Why are NTN bearings especially good?

[dialtone]

I think you're right, these J&L bearings are just very cheap and I can't see them lasting a long time.

Wheel bearings (especially the rear) are under a lot of stress from the drive and bumps/potholes in the road. This will damage/wear weak bearings quickly.

Why are NTN bearings especially good?

engineering-wise they are among the top 5 best bearings brands you can buy. They tolerance is basically 0 so they have close to no drag and last forever due to the precision with which they are machined.

Doesn't get better than NTN or SKF.

[Nickldn]

Right, so how do I find the right sized bearings from NTN, or SKF?

The Easton OEM bearings are designed with a number and then initials, eg:

7801 ACB AM

I guess the ACB stands for angular contact bearing, but I have no idea about the rest.

Do I need to take the hub apart and look at the numbers engraved on the side?

[dialtone]

Right, so how do I find the right sized bearings from NTN, or SKF?

The Easton OEM bearings are designed with a number and then initials, eg:

7801 ACB AM

I guess the ACB stands for angular contact bearing, but I have no idea about the rest.

Do I need to take the hub apart and look at the numbers engraved on the side?

Either in their support docs or I'm afraid even just reading the numbers might not be enough and you really need to measure it. One downside of NTN or SKF is that they don't make custom bearing sizes, so your axle size is a critical factor even before the bearing size.

[Nickldn]

I'm guessing the Eastons are rebadged Enduro bearings, as many standard manufacturers don't have a huge range of angular contact bearings.

Not sure it matters though in they are not angular contact.

I notice CeramicSpeed makes a couple of Easton wheel bearing kits, fortunately not much info available, so I won't be tempted.

As an aside, can I use Mobil Mobilgrease XHP 222 High Performance Lithium Complex Grease (NLGI grade 2) to regrease the old bearings? Might extend the life of the front.

[dialtone]

I'm guessing the Eastons are rebadged Enduro bearings, as many standard manufacturers don't have a huge range of angular contact bearings.

Not sure it matters though in they are not angular contact.

I notice CeramicSpeed makes a couple of Easton wheel bearing kits, fortunately not much info available, so I won't be tempted.

As an aside, can I use Mobil Mobilgrease XHP 222 High Performance Lithium Complex Grease (NLGI grade 2) to regrease the old bearings? Might extend the life of the front.

Most certainly not. Grade 2 is very coarse, meant for cars. For bike bearings you may not want to go above grade 0 but it depends on application and place, if you are asking about grease inside the bearings then I would probably not go above grade 00 depending on the sealing you have.

[Nickldn]

Could you recommend a grease for inside the bearing?

Was thinking of flushing out the old grease (if any) with some degreaser and then adding in some new grease.

[dialtone]

Could you recommend a grease for inside the bearing?

Was thinking of flushing out the old grease (if any) with some degreaser and then adding in some new grease.

I can't actually, I normally just buy a new bearing because I'm afraid that taking out the seal will ruin the sealing of the bearings, plus the amount and type of grease from factory is probably some proprietary formula and such.

For most other uses Grade 2 in the bike is totally fine, like to put on the axle in contact with the bearing for example.

[Nickldn]

I use the grade 2 grease inside the freehub actually, good to do a regrease every few years to stop the pawls drying out. Seems to be ok for that.

Dono, might try new grease for inside the bearings, but as you say it's risky and I know some bearing mfrs. Enduro for example don't recommend it.

[kode54]

When I cannot get replacement bearings in time, I open the seals...ultrasonic clean them inside and out...regrease it and put them back in. But only temporarily until new bearings arrive. Typically, at least in my case, the old bearings are pitted and the races are worn. So cleaning and regreasing only lasts for a short time. Again, I'm not an expert here, but that's what I do. As far as the temporary regreasing...I use anything I have...and have used the grease in the syringe that came with CeramicSpeed bottom bracket. Also, I have used NFS grease, Mobil1 synthetic red grease and SKF bearing grease. All pretty much similar. I use grease outside the bearings as well...to prevent rust on any metal part inside the hubs. Hope that helps.

[Nickldn]

When I cannot get replacement bearings in time, I open the seals...ultrasonic clean them inside and out...regrease it and put them back in. But only temporarily until new bearings arrive. Typically, at least in my case, the old bearings are pitted and the races are worn. So cleaning and regreasing only lasts for a short time. Again, I'm not an expert here, but that's what I do. As far as the temporary regreasing...I use anything I have...and have used the grease in the syringe that came with CeramicSpeed bottom bracket. Also, I have used NFS grease, Mobil1 synthetic red grease and SKF bearing grease. All pretty much similar. I use grease outside the bearings as well...to prevent rust on any metal part inside the hubs. Hope that helps.

Thanks kode54, it seems that regreasing steel bearings is not a long term remedy after all and it's best to replace rough bearings.

I think what I'll do is take my hubs apart as much as possible and check each bearing. If any don't feel smooth then I'll get new ones if in stock. I recon the bike will be put away for the winter soon, so there is time to source replacements.

[kode54]

That's one way N+1 comes in handy or if you store your summer bike during colder temps.

I usually go through my summer bike and do the maintenance during winter. Clean, replace, regrease everything. I also extract the sealant if I'm not going to ride the bike for 3-4 months. Although the winter hasn't been all that bad (less icy roads, etc.) so I force myself to do the maintenance regardless and take that bike out of the rotation.

The steel bearings shouldn't cost too much unless you buy bike specific ones where they charge a premium. The key is getting authentic and standard sized bearings which you can find...just beware of fakes. You can measure the bearings (width, ID, OD) and get a match or look closely and the actual bearing size should be on the seal.

[Nickldn]

That's one way N+1 comes in handy or if you store your summer bike during colder temps.

I usually go through my summer bike and do the maintenance during winter. Clean, replace, regrease everything. I also extract the sealant if I'm not going to ride the bike for 3-4 months. Although the winter hasn't been all that bad (less icy roads, etc.) so I force myself to do the maintenance regardless and take that bike out of the rotation.

The steel bearings shouldn't cost too much unless you buy bike specific ones where they charge a premium. The key is getting authentic and standard sized bearings which you can find...just beware of fakes. You can measure the bearings (width, ID, OD) and get a match or look closely and the actual bearing size should be on the seal.

Yeah, it's nice having 2 really great bikes, which are effectively interchangeable. But I prefer my Giant Propel, as it's about a kilo lighter and feels more responsive than my Vitus ZX1. But yes, rim brakes and carbon wheels means the Propel does not see rain, or road salt for that matter. Road salt is bad news.

I'll see how many of the bearings need to be changed, hoping it's just one and I can get it quite cheaply. I have 3 months to do it.