Will there be rotor rub, DT240EXP & DT350?

[robeambro]

Hi all,

I am considering using a single bike with two wheelsets. One (which I already own) road carbon set which has DT240EXP hubs, and one (which I don't have yet) which will most likely be alloy, more spokes, for light gravel. The second wheelset has literally one purpose: to avoid needing to re-centre calipers when swapping wheels. I can be OK with occasional rubbing, but I would like to have as quick and pleasant of a wheel swap experience as possible.

Now, of course using the same hubs (i.e. 240EXP) would go a long way in helping with that, but I am not quite willing to fork out money for those hubs for a cheap gravel wheelset which would be mostly (if not only) used for leisure rides.
So I was thinking whether DT350's (or even DT370's) would do the job? Is there anybody who knows and has tried this?

[Hexsense]

I haven't but just in case you need to figure it out,
Order DT 350 hubs then install rotor (be gentle with torque, you don't want to leave any used mark) and fit to the bike and see. If it rub then return the hubs and you know you need 240EXP.
If not then order spokes, nipples and rim to build up the wheels afterward.

Key idea is, you can check the rotor alignment without building the wheel first.

[Cleaner]

Probably. There are centerlock lockring shims available to deal with this issue, Jagwire among others offer them. Any centerlock hub made to spec should be able to work with the use of shims to swap wheels without rubbing if you are using the same model of rotors on both wheels.

This assumes that your frame alignment etc. is to spec as well.

[robeambro]

Thanks both. I suppose there are ways around the issue. I feel a bit safer.

[ghostinthemachine]

My partners mountain bike has two sets of wheels, one with 240 EXP, one with some rebadged 350s. Those certainly have the disc in the same location.
I know they are both MTB boost hubs but I would be surprised if the road disc spacing differs.

[BigBoyND]

Probably. There are centerlock lockring shims available to deal with this issue, Jagwire among others offer them. Any centerlock hub made to spec should be able to work with the use of shims to swap wheels without rubbing if you are using the same model of rotors on both wheels.

This assumes that your frame alignment etc. is to spec as well.

Is there such a thing to move the rotor inboard? Perhaps a shim on the endcaps? I had DT hubs on my previous wheels for my Canyon Speedmax. My new wheels have i9 Torch hubs but the rotor is so far outboard that the rotor rubs on the outboard brake pad as I tighten the thru axle to spec (10-15Nm). The caliper is as far outboard as it can go, and the centerlock is tightened to 40Nm.

[Cleaner]

Is there such a thing to move the rotor inboard? Perhaps a shim on the endcaps? I had DT hubs on my previous wheels for my Canyon Speedmax. My new wheels have i9 Torch hubs but the rotor is so far outboard that the rotor rubs on the outboard brake pad as I tighten the thru axle to spec (10-15Nm). The caliper is as far outboard as it can go, and the centerlock is tightened to 40Nm.

The shims move the rotor outboard. The inboard limit position is determined by the spline interface where the rotor mates to the hub shell. In theory you would need to adjust the drop out interface of the hub to shift the hub between dropouts. This could be accomplished with endcap modification.

I would check the i9 hub dimensions against the spec as a first step.

[robeambro]

My partners mountain bike has two sets of wheels, one with 240 EXP, one with some rebadged 350s. Those certainly have the disc in the same location.
I know they are both MTB boost hubs but I would be surprised if the road disc spacing differs.

Thanks, this helps in giving me some further confidence.

[kafreeman]

I had 3 sets of wheels for one bike all diff hubs. I swapped through until I found the one with the rotor closest to the dropout. I judged by where it would sit in the caliper. I had one touching the pads on the outside. Adjusted the caliper for that wheelset then shimmed the rest out for the same spot. Took a bit of time with adding shims in but finally got to easy wheel swaps.

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[BigBoyND]

Is there such a thing to move the rotor inboard? Perhaps a shim on the endcaps? I had DT hubs on my previous wheels for my Canyon Speedmax. My new wheels have i9 Torch hubs but the rotor is so far outboard that the rotor rubs on the outboard brake pad as I tighten the thru axle to spec (10-15Nm). The caliper is as far outboard as it can go, and the centerlock is tightened to 40Nm.

The shims move the rotor outboard. The inboard limit position is determined by the spline interface where the rotor mates to the hub shell. In theory you would need to adjust the drop out interface of the hub to shift the hub between dropouts. This could be accomplished with endcap modification.

I would check the i9 hub dimensions against the spec as a first step.

Hub seems within spec, so I just used a rotor truing tool to slightly adjust the rotor inboard (certainly less than 1mm)

[Cleaner]

Hub seems within spec, so I just used a rotor truing tool to slightly adjust the rotor inboard (certainly less than 1mm)

If it is rubbing locally that would probably work by truing the rotor. If it is rubbing on the ourboard side on the whole rotor then truing the rotor will be much more difficult. If it rubbing on most of the rotor and the hub is in spec then the issue is probably with the rotor postion when seated on the spline interface. One way to test this is to use the same rotor and lockring on each wheel. If both hubs are in spec then the fit in the frame should be very close.

[BigBoyND]

It was the whole rotor, but wasn't difficult with a truing tool. Few press all the way around, then true where it was uneven. Maybe 2-3 minutes. So now it's true and centered with the caliper. I did swap rotors and it was the same with both, unfortunately.