Cheap hubs vs. Expensive hubs
Moderator: robbosmans
What are the advantages of cheap hubs like Bitex, Formula, and Novatec vs. expensive hubs such as DT Swiss, Chris King, White Industries, etc? It's not weight as the cheap hubs like Bitex are just as light, do they not roll as fast? Do they not last as long?
I've got 3 sets of road bike wheels and two have DT Swiss rachet hubs (Bontrager RaceXXXLight, and Bontrager Aeolus) and a set of wheels with rebranded Formula hubs (which I understand are the OEM for a lot of wheels). They are all differnt wheels and on two differnt bikes so it's hard to do a real apples to apples comparison.
I've got 3 sets of road bike wheels and two have DT Swiss rachet hubs (Bontrager RaceXXXLight, and Bontrager Aeolus) and a set of wheels with rebranded Formula hubs (which I understand are the OEM for a lot of wheels). They are all differnt wheels and on two differnt bikes so it's hard to do a real apples to apples comparison.
2015 Wilier Zero.7 Rim - 6.37kg
2020 Trek Emonda SLR-7 Disc - 6.86kg
2023 Specialized SL7 - 7.18kg
2020 Trek Emonda SLR-7 Disc - 6.86kg
2023 Specialized SL7 - 7.18kg
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Expensive hubs are often machined to a higher tolerances and use better quality bearings. Also they are typically manufactured in more expensive countries e.g USA or Europe. Cheap hubs typically have a standard pawl based freehub compared to something like the DT Swiss star ratchet.
Cheap hubs are almost disposable whereas expensive hubs you are more likely to keep rebuilding for years.
Cheap hubs are almost disposable whereas expensive hubs you are more likely to keep rebuilding for years.
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Cheap or Expensive hubs are all made most of them from the same material aluminium and the same tolerances of fabrication. They differs from coatings and quality of bearings also you pay a lot more for their names.!
Once comes a time that you'll have a tailwind
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DT swiss is like iphone, you can repair in anywhere, and the springs, freehub are very common in the market, and easy to get with reasonable prices.
For the Bitex, formula, novatec, is like Sony cellphones or Huawei cellphones, first, hard to get spare parts to repair, maybe you need to wait many months to get the spare parts, and second, the prices are insignificant, finally the local bike store will suggest you to replace a new one hub
for the Chris King is like a Samsung, good and very impressive hub, but expensive and durable, the problem is the weight and the after services worldwide are not the same like DT swiss,
but for dt swiss, you have cheaper models and expensive models.
the 80% of the hub are made in Taiwan, includes the famous DT swiss and others brands, the designs inside of each hub the best of the world have very similars designs, you can see the new Vision PRS hub, with DT swiss and CK R45 model,
and the rest, are like standard and traditional hub using 3 to 6 pawls engage system, it is very very tradional and easy, but bad for rainy days,
check here a picture
and for the old school shimano dura ace hubs, are using the old school way, it is bad for grease and reuse, this is a MTB open design.
so for a durable and long term hub, DT swiss it is the first option, check almost many good brands choose DT swiss for their wheels
For the Bitex, formula, novatec, is like Sony cellphones or Huawei cellphones, first, hard to get spare parts to repair, maybe you need to wait many months to get the spare parts, and second, the prices are insignificant, finally the local bike store will suggest you to replace a new one hub
for the Chris King is like a Samsung, good and very impressive hub, but expensive and durable, the problem is the weight and the after services worldwide are not the same like DT swiss,
but for dt swiss, you have cheaper models and expensive models.
the 80% of the hub are made in Taiwan, includes the famous DT swiss and others brands, the designs inside of each hub the best of the world have very similars designs, you can see the new Vision PRS hub, with DT swiss and CK R45 model,
and the rest, are like standard and traditional hub using 3 to 6 pawls engage system, it is very very tradional and easy, but bad for rainy days,
check here a picture
and for the old school shimano dura ace hubs, are using the old school way, it is bad for grease and reuse, this is a MTB open design.
so for a durable and long term hub, DT swiss it is the first option, check almost many good brands choose DT swiss for their wheels
If you ask me I rate hubs in 3 categories:
1. Expensive hubs with cone bearings...Campagnolo and Shimano hubs. I rate these ones the best, for the obviuos reason...cup and cone. I am ready to pay more for cup and cones and always choose these hubs first. Addition of ratchet would be nice, but in reality pawls and springs are working perfect. In separate post we can discuss why is cup and cone system better or worse than sealed bearings.
2. Expensive hubs with sealed bearings...Dt, CK, WI and similar. Generaly I find them to be too expensive and they are not my first choice. I see no reason to pay premium price over cup and cone from Shimano or Campagnolo. They have bling factor, tolerances are tight and bearings are supposed to be good....but in reality I think this is 2nd tier.
3. Cheap hubs with sealed bearings. Once you change and install bearings from NTN, FAG or SKF you end up more or less with similar hub like expensive one without it's coolnes factor. To be honest Novatec hubs have been working perfect for me in the past and I don't see why would I pay premium price for expensive brands.
So more or less...this is how I choose hubs..
1.Am I building cheep wheel? If yes go to 3, if no go to 2.
2. Is new wheel with 32 spokes? If yes I get Campagnolo Record hubs. If no I get Shimano (D-A, Ultegra or 105) hubs.
3. I get some cheep hub like Novatec or Bitex.
1. Expensive hubs with cone bearings...Campagnolo and Shimano hubs. I rate these ones the best, for the obviuos reason...cup and cone. I am ready to pay more for cup and cones and always choose these hubs first. Addition of ratchet would be nice, but in reality pawls and springs are working perfect. In separate post we can discuss why is cup and cone system better or worse than sealed bearings.
2. Expensive hubs with sealed bearings...Dt, CK, WI and similar. Generaly I find them to be too expensive and they are not my first choice. I see no reason to pay premium price over cup and cone from Shimano or Campagnolo. They have bling factor, tolerances are tight and bearings are supposed to be good....but in reality I think this is 2nd tier.
3. Cheap hubs with sealed bearings. Once you change and install bearings from NTN, FAG or SKF you end up more or less with similar hub like expensive one without it's coolnes factor. To be honest Novatec hubs have been working perfect for me in the past and I don't see why would I pay premium price for expensive brands.
So more or less...this is how I choose hubs..
1.Am I building cheep wheel? If yes go to 3, if no go to 2.
2. Is new wheel with 32 spokes? If yes I get Campagnolo Record hubs. If no I get Shimano (D-A, Ultegra or 105) hubs.
3. I get some cheep hub like Novatec or Bitex.
So I'm not missing out on any speed going with cheaper hubs like Formula or Bitex?
I have opened and serviced both of my DT Swiss hubs - I've not replaced bearings, but I did clean everything and put a fresh coat of super secert red grease on the rachets. I haven't opened up my Formula hubs yet, but I guess I ought two open them up sometime this winter and clean them. First I guess I have to figure out how to get the freehub body off - I haven't even looked at how to do it on those hubs.
The bike with the Formula hubs is a rim brake bike with carbon wheels so I tend to only ride it in good weather. I have DT Swiss hubs on my disc bike that sees the wet days.
I have opened and serviced both of my DT Swiss hubs - I've not replaced bearings, but I did clean everything and put a fresh coat of super secert red grease on the rachets. I haven't opened up my Formula hubs yet, but I guess I ought two open them up sometime this winter and clean them. First I guess I have to figure out how to get the freehub body off - I haven't even looked at how to do it on those hubs.
The bike with the Formula hubs is a rim brake bike with carbon wheels so I tend to only ride it in good weather. I have DT Swiss hubs on my disc bike that sees the wet days.
2015 Wilier Zero.7 Rim - 6.37kg
2020 Trek Emonda SLR-7 Disc - 6.86kg
2023 Specialized SL7 - 7.18kg
2020 Trek Emonda SLR-7 Disc - 6.86kg
2023 Specialized SL7 - 7.18kg
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I personally find Bitex hubs to be excellent value. My go to hub for any set of wheels that aren't too fancy.
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I've had cheaper hubs where the run out is visible. Not yet had a DT Swiss or Shimano hub where you can see that...
Also had some cheaper hubs where the bearings aren't either concentric OR parallel...
They are probably expensive hubs with the same issues, but I've not yet seen one.
I run a little bit of both. DT hubs on 2 wheelsets and they are just fine. Bontrager Aeolus 5 and a set of the XXX mountain wheels. I also run 2 sets of Novatec hubs, again they are just fine. The Novatec stock bearings aren't the best but on my gravel wheels, they lasted 2 years so not that bad. I have an aluminum clincher wheels using the Bitex RAF12/RAR12, these hubs really surprised me. The bearings are still buttery smooth and built up into a great set of wheels. I don't think I would ever go for expensive hubs unless I ever buy another set of big brand prebuilt wheels. I did have a set of king mountain bike wheels back in the day and they worked fine, nothing that really impressed me about them though.
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If you want really light hubs for a ww build, like Extralite or Tune, they're more expensive....
2018 Fuji Transonic 2.5 rim (6.90kg)
2020 ICAN AC-388 cyclocross bike (8.41kg)
2021 Trek Emonda SLR RSL H1 rim (5.65kg)
1980s vintage ALAN Super Record (haven't weighed it)
2020 ICAN AC-388 cyclocross bike (8.41kg)
2021 Trek Emonda SLR RSL H1 rim (5.65kg)
1980s vintage ALAN Super Record (haven't weighed it)