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musiclover
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Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2019 11:58 pm

by musiclover

I have retired from this forum, not wasting any more time here.
Last edited by musiclover on Thu Aug 11, 2022 12:00 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Nickldn
Posts: 1863
Joined: Mon Mar 25, 2019 12:35 am

by Nickldn

Best to unscrew it and check the condition of the threads.

Most cassette lock rings go to 40nm, which is not particularly high effort with an automotive torque wrench.
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Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Zipp SL70 bars 7.5kg

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musiclover
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by musiclover

I try not to undo it unneccessarily if I can, just because that thin "foily" washer on the lockring tends to get damaged a lot. Thus I wanted to just leave it for now until my proper 2-60 Nm digital torque wrench arrives.

I do not trust that automative torque wrench that I borrow I think it is very approximate.
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ooo
Posts: 1590
Joined: Sat May 21, 2016 12:59 pm

by ooo

Washer can be replaced to washer from spare cassette lockring,
and it can be ordered online as separate part Y10Z04000:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/cassettes/s ... -10z-0400/
'

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musiclover
Posts: 494
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by musiclover

I guess, to simplify:

If I torque that lockring to a crazy torque, what will give up first? Lockring or freehub body threads?

Can it do any other potential damage?
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ooo
Posts: 1590
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by ooo

first will give up washer
'

Aesch
Posts: 332
Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2020 10:09 pm

by Aesch

musiclover wrote:
Sat Oct 02, 2021 1:53 pm
I guess, to simplify:

If I torque that lockring to a crazy torque, what will give up first? Lockring or freehub body threads?

Can it do any other potential damage?
I bought a second hand cassette where the lockring was tightened by a gorilla. The lockring got flattened. Il see if I can find it.

ghostinthemachine
Posts: 780
Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 9:18 pm

by ghostinthemachine

musiclover wrote:
Sat Oct 02, 2021 1:53 pm
I guess, to simplify:

If I torque that lockring to a crazy torque, what will give up first? Lockring or freehub body threads?

Can it do any other potential damage?
on an aluminium DTSwoss freehub body, the freehub threads will fail first iv you're using a Shimano steel lock ring.
I've also seen longitudinal splits from over tightening (novatech iirc) and the end 5mm of the freehub shear off (hope).

Nickldn
Posts: 1863
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by Nickldn

musiclover wrote:
Sat Oct 02, 2021 1:17 pm
I try not to undo it unneccessarily if I can, just because that thin "foily" washer on the lockring tends to get damaged a lot. Thus I wanted to just leave it for now until my proper 2-60 Nm digital torque wrench arrives.

I do not trust that automative torque wrench that I borrow I think it is very approximate.
I think you've missed my point.

If there is an issue with how your cassette has been fitted to your hub and you do not find out for a while, then you may be paying out for a lot more than a thin "foily" washer. Think new hub....
Giant Propel Advanced SL Red Etap 11s Easton EC90 wheels CeramicSpeed BB Zipp SL70 bars 6.5kg

Vitus ZX1 CRS Campy Chorus 12s Bora WTO 45 disk brake wheels Zipp SL70 bars 7.5kg

SL8 build with Craft CS5060 Wheels in progress

Karvalo
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by Karvalo

musiclover wrote:
Sat Oct 02, 2021 12:40 pm
I have a Shimano Ultegra cassette on a DT Swiss 350 hub, the freehub body starts to show damage from the upper cogs of the cassette. I have been told that this happens due to the lockring not being tight enough.
That just happens because it happens. The design of Shimano HG cassettes on an aluminium freehub inevitably leds to the cogs digging in to the splines and cranking down on the lockring will not prevent it.

CAAD997
Posts: 59
Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2016 3:43 am
Location: United States of America

by CAAD997

Karvalo wrote:
Sat Oct 09, 2021 9:51 pm
That just happens because it happens. The design of Shimano HG cassettes on an aluminium freehub inevitably leds to the cogs digging in to the splines and cranking down on the lockring will not prevent it.
I just noticed an issue with a 350 hub on a set of DT Swiss wheels aquired last year, and found this thread via searching.


The SMALL tooth gears of an Ultegra cassette were "stuck" on the 350 hub. [I originally typed "large tooth gears"] Once I was finally able to remove them, I noticed that the hub was damaged where the cassette was deforming the hub splines, so I had to file down the areas that were damaged. This is my first set of DT Swiss wheels, and I have never had this happen before with other wheels that also use aluminum hubs.
Last edited by CAAD997 on Thu Oct 14, 2021 3:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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musiclover
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by musiclover

Karvalo wrote:
Sat Oct 09, 2021 9:51 pm
That just happens because it happens. The design of Shimano HG cassettes on an aluminium freehub inevitably leds to the cogs digging in to the splines and cranking down on the lockring will not prevent it.
It makes sence though that a tighter fit of a lockring should limit the cassette movement. Have you been adhering to the torque recommendation and still had the same problem? What is the information that a lose cassette will do the same damage as a properly torqued one based on?
CAAD997 wrote:
Wed Oct 13, 2021 9:02 pm
I just noticed an issue with a 350 hub on a set of DT Swiss wheels aquired last year, and found this thread via searching.


The large tooth gears of an Ultegra cassette were "stuck" on the 350 hub. Once I was finally able to remove them, I noticed that the hub was damaged where the cassette was deforming the hub splines, so I had to file down the areas that were damaged. This is my first set of DT Swiss wheels, and I have never had this happen before with other wheels that also use aluminum hubs.
Large cogs are on aluminium "spider" and thus the freewheel body is not normally damaged there. That's odd.
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CAAD997
Posts: 59
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Location: United States of America

by CAAD997

musiclover wrote:
Thu Oct 14, 2021 2:43 am
CAAD997 wrote:
Wed Oct 13, 2021 9:02 pm
I just noticed an issue with a 350 hub on a set of DT Swiss wheels aquired last year, and found this thread via searching.


The large tooth gears of an Ultegra cassette were "stuck" on the 350 hub. Once I was finally able to remove them, I noticed that the hub was damaged where the cassette was deforming the hub splines, so I had to file down the areas that were damaged. This is my first set of DT Swiss wheels, and I have never had this happen before with other wheels that also use aluminum hubs.
Large cogs are on aluminium "spider" and thus the freewheel body is not normally damaged there. That's odd.
musiclover ........ I have corrected my comment as it was the smaller toothed sprockets that caused the issue. Sorry for the poor description.


The smaller sprockets are steel, and the steel sprocket splines created some deformation on the aluminum hub splines.


Since this has not happened with my previous wheels [multiple sets from a different manufacture], I was searching here just to see if I could find information about this being a specific DT Swiss hub issue, or maybe it was just a one-off issue. Worst case for me is that I just need to replace the hub.


The cassette was an Ultegra CS-6700 10-spd (with the appropriate spacer) - just switched the cassette to an 11-speed and plan to look at it in a week or two to see if the 11-speed cassette has created damage.
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