NEW GP5000S TR

[C36]

Isn't that with 20ml sealant?

It's going to be quite different with a standard 80ml sealant no?

It is tested with 20ml, that’s probably too little to be representative, 30ml seems to be the minimum recommended for 23mm tires and 60 for 28mm (directly from orange seal)




Aerocoach did test impact of sealant, 60ml is 2.5W slower than the 20ml from BRR test.




Supersix evo2 HM - 5.9 stiff-aero version, 5.6kg light specs.

[pmprego]

I put 400ml in each tire. I love the feeling of liquid going around my tires.

Oh people... I get some don't like tubeless. Not everyone has to like. But saying stuff like that is just senseless.

(I'm joking of course - on new tires around 50-60ml for initial seal and then no more than 30ml each refill - I remove "old" with a syringe to make sure of the quantities)

[TobinHatesYou]

I put 40mL in a new 25mm tire because some of it will work toward the initial seal. I put 60mL in a 35mm tire.

Orange Seal vaguely recommends 1-2oz (roughly 30-60mL) for "road."
Stan's NoTubes recommends 2oz (60mL) for 700x40mm tires.

[C36]

Orange Seal vaguely recommends 1-2oz (roughly 30-60mL) for "road.".

Asking Orange seal customer service they recommend “after first injection” to keep 30ml on 23mm, 45 on 25 and 60ml on 28mm tires to “maximise performance and sealant-capacity lifespan”

[MagicShite]

Isn't that with 20ml sealant?

It's going to be quite different with a standard 80ml sealant no?

It is tested with 20ml, that’s probably too little to be representative, 30ml seems to be the minimum recommended for 23mm tires and 60 for 28mm (directly from orange seal)




Aerocoach did test impact of sealant, 60ml is 2.5W slower than the 20ml from BRR test.




Supersix evo2 HM - 5.9 stiff-aero version, 5.6kg light specs.

Thanks for the source. I totally forgot where I read them and I can't be arsed to google it up again.

But yeah, 60ml has a 2.5w gap that will go beyond the gap between Tubeless vs Latex.

I'm definitely not running anything lower than 50ml from where I'm from. It's hot and humid here.

[pmprego]

Those graphs are very very nice but I wonder whats the confidence interval of these numbers. I just wish they would disclaim that. The fact they don't do it suggests that they are really not "good looking numbers".

[Roadbiker10]

I don't understand. I'm not talking about running tubeless at all. Just how the S TR with just latex tubes inside would compare to regular GP5000 non tubeless with latex tubes.

[Mocs123]

OK, I got my first tubeless flat the other day 48km into a 105km ride, I hit a pothole and got a small puncture in the sidewall. It had been 80 days since I had topped off my sealant, and obviously that was too long as it was dry and I had to pop in a tube to get home. Ironically though it took me an hour and lots of blood, sweat, and tears to get the tires mounted originally but this time they went on by hand -no problems at all. I had wondered if I'd ever be able to get the tire back on the rim after having to put a tube in on the side of the road, but it was no problem. I got home and put sealant in and it seems to be holding air after an initial bubble or two.

What are your thoughts - is this tire toast or am I ok? Or should I try and patch from the inside. Front tire 3500km on them, 80psi, 80km rider.


https://imgur.com/dnOHpx2
https://imgur.com/dnOHpx2

[jlok]

I'd probably feel safer by patching it from inside. Not sure how much it helps tho.

[warthog101]

Patch and on the rear not the front.
Safest would be to bin it.
I'd rather spend the money on a consumable like a tyre than risk a crash due to sudden failure.
I expect if you asked the manufacturer they'd say bin it, there appears carcass damage.

[Mocs123]

Well I ordered a new tire - Actually I ordrered two as I wanted to go tan wall on that bike. That was an expensive pothole but at least I found them on sale.

[kode54]

OK, I got my first tubeless flat the other day 48km into a 105km ride, I hit a pothole and got a small puncture in the sidewall. It had been 80 days since I had topped off my sealant, and obviously that was too long as it was dry and I had to pop in a tube to get home. Ironically though it took me an hour and lots of blood, sweat, and tears to get the tires mounted originally but this time they went on by hand -no problems at all. I had wondered if I'd ever be able to get the tire back on the rim after having to put a tube in on the side of the road, but it was no problem. I got home and put sealant in and it seems to be holding air after an initial bubble or two.

What are your thoughts - is this tire toast or am I ok? Or should I try and patch from the inside. Front tire 3500km on them, 80psi, 80km rider.


https://imgur.com/dnOHpx2
https://imgur.com/dnOHpx2

Maybe try one of these before tossing it out....

https://bikerumor.com/lezyne-2022-eurob ... new-pumps/

[pdlpsher1]

Well I ordered a new tire - Actually I ordrered two as I wanted to go tan wall on that bike. That was an expensive pothole but at least I found them on sale.

Your setup seems to have a narrow tire mounted on a wide rim. This is good for aero but not good for sidewall protection. If you run a wider tire on the same rim the sidewall will be more protected by the tread.

[Mocs123]

Yeah, I've got 25c mounted on 21mm interal rims.

[Mocs123]

I recieved my two tanwall 25cx700 GP5000S-TR's today. 254g and 257g with the bands on (but paper removed). I think my black versions were 249g and 250g if I remember correctly. These are my first "tan wall" tires and it appears the "tan" color is a bronzy color almost painted on.