best 30mm internal gravel / MTB rims
Moderator: robbosmans
Hi dear Friends,
I'm looking forward to a new wheelset for my gravelbike with 30mm internals and came across these two rims which are very interesting.
These two rims in T800 looks super light and with the same weight. The 28mm depth rim is maybe even a bit more aerodynamic without a wieght penalty.
Can you please share your thoughts.
Thanks a lot
I'm looking forward to a new wheelset for my gravelbike with 30mm internals and came across these two rims which are very interesting.
These two rims in T800 looks super light and with the same weight. The 28mm depth rim is maybe even a bit more aerodynamic without a wieght penalty.
Can you please share your thoughts.
Thanks a lot
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I'm a MTBer, not a gravel rider, so forgive my ignorance. For MTB I use 25mm rims for XC with 2.2-2.35" tires, 27mm rims for Trail with 2.35-2.4" tires, and 30mm rims for DH & Enduro with 2.5" tires. I've tried 32mm with 2.5" tires and thought the rims were too wide, though they seemed a good fit for the 2.6" tires I briefly tried.
I'm curious what width gravel tires you'll use with 30mm rims and if you've tested various rim/tire widths to arrive at this setup.
I'm curious what width gravel tires you'll use with 30mm rims and if you've tested various rim/tire widths to arrive at this setup.
On road side, the pinnacle of wide rim narrow tire is now about 25mm tire on 23mm internal width rim and 28mm tire on 25mm internal width rim. In fact, I use this very same combo on my road bike (25mm front tire on 23mm ID front rim and 28mm rear tire on 25mm ID rear rim).
Why wide rim+ narrow tire on road:
1) wide base support for the tire:
tire stability is higher, so handling is sharper at lower pressure without feeling the tire flop when cornering hard
2) straighter tire side wall: more aerodynamically efficient.
3) coincedentally, internal width also imply external rim width. A tire this narrow on a rim this wide means the rim external width is wider than the tire. So again, it is more aerodynamically efficient.
why it wouldn't work on mtb:
1) unlike slick smooth road tires, mtb tires have knobs and tread patterns. Flatten it can spoil intended handling geometry of the treads.
2) most benefits on road are aerodynamic, which mtb don't care. So why bother.
On gravel, well, it's borderline. I saw people use slick 35mm tire on 50mm deep rim on gravel. So aerodynamic is still a focus for some. Handling stability might still be better on wider rim. But you risk rolling on cornering knobs in straight line too.
Fat slick tires might work well. Maybe 35-40mm slick tires on 30mm ID rim make sense.
But I'd avoid tires with inconsistent tread patterns, like smooth center with tall sidewall knobs.
To OP:
forget aero at this depth. If your rim is going to be this wide the only way to make it aero is to make it deep too. 45mm+ deep might be the minimum for reasonably aero rim curve.
3t make one at 45mm depth, 29mm internal.
https://www.3t.bike/en/products/wheels/ ... 0-732.html
Of course, but are you discounting the vertical compliance of a low profile rim supported by tensioned spokes? There's a big difference in feel among a 1-piece carbon wheel, a deep profile carbon rim, and a low profile rim designed to flex vertically/radially. If there wasn't all the current MTBs would be on 30ish mm deep rims that allow shorter spokes and a laterally stiffer wheel. Instead you'll see that all the new carbon rims are pretty low profile except Enve and everyone says they're too stiff. Or, look to the old box section alloy rims that were used in cobbles races until fairly recently.
Curious what your weight is and what kind of gravel riding you are planning on.
I think with the D28s you can get a stronger/stiffer wheel/rim and it can be built with less spokes than the D18. There's quite a few variables that go into this. If you are going to be 100% gravel and beating down rocks all day long the D18 might make more sense especially if you are not a heavier rider.
If your weight is a factor (80kg +) I'd be more likely to steer you toward the D28s.
I think with the D28s you can get a stronger/stiffer wheel/rim and it can be built with less spokes than the D18. There's quite a few variables that go into this. If you are going to be 100% gravel and beating down rocks all day long the D18 might make more sense especially if you are not a heavier rider.
If your weight is a factor (80kg +) I'd be more likely to steer you toward the D28s.
Through the Valleys and over the Mountains...
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
2013 Ridley Helium - 6.9Kg
2017 Blue ProSecco - 9.0Kg
2018 Ridley Noah SL - 7.85Kg
Hi dear Backdoor,
Yes I'm around 81kg
I'm planning easy descents, mainly straight gravel streets.
I was just curious, that the d28 seems so much better, stiffer may more aero and even the same weight as the d18.
So I was wondering about such a difference in design by keeping the same weight. Even the d18 may seem to be the more recent developed design.
Thx a lot for your support
Yes I'm around 81kg
I'm planning easy descents, mainly straight gravel streets.
I was just curious, that the d28 seems so much better, stiffer may more aero and even the same weight as the d18.
So I was wondering about such a difference in design by keeping the same weight. Even the d18 may seem to be the more recent developed design.
Thx a lot for your support
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