Losing watts with latex inside tubeless tyre ?
Moderator: robbosmans
So, I have had it with tubeless; I use conti 5000 23mm clincher with latex front and 25mm tubeless back, no problems with front tyre constant problems with back tyre.
The new back tyre has about 1000km and I already had 2 punctures, since its quite new I would hate to replace it already so I am thinking about putting latex inside. I wonder what would be the watts penalty for doing that ?
Thanks
The new back tyre has about 1000km and I already had 2 punctures, since its quite new I would hate to replace it already so I am thinking about putting latex inside. I wonder what would be the watts penalty for doing that ?
Thanks
Basically a wash. Tubeless with around 30ml of sealant equals latex tube inside.
However, if you've flatted already for a couple of times, I wouldn't think the tube would solve your problem. Look at the cause of the flats and act accordingly.
However, if you've flatted already for a couple of times, I wouldn't think the tube would solve your problem. Look at the cause of the flats and act accordingly.
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Just out of curiosity - how would you know that is a wash?
Not that I would expect any huge changes either way myself.
Agree on trying to solve the problem with a tube sounds unlikely. If something is penetrating the tire causing a puncture the latex tube wouldn´t offer much extra protection. Normally it would be the other way around - I mean I went from latex to tubeless for the extra protection - not the other way around (I might be a fool though).
Not that I would expect any huge changes either way myself.
Agree on trying to solve the problem with a tube sounds unlikely. If something is penetrating the tire causing a puncture the latex tube wouldn´t offer much extra protection. Normally it would be the other way around - I mean I went from latex to tubeless for the extra protection - not the other way around (I might be a fool though).
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Because it's been tested by both AeroCoach and BRR. I wouldn't give up the flat prevention of tubeless.HenryH wrote: ↑Tue Jun 15, 2021 9:18 pmJust out of curiosity - how would you know that is a wash?
Not that I would expect any huge changes either way myself.
Agree on trying to solve the problem with a tube sounds unlikely. If something is penetrating the tire causing a puncture the latex tube wouldn´t offer much extra protection. Normally it would be the other way around - I mean I went from latex to tubeless for the extra protection - not the other way around (I might be a fool though).
The OP is seeing what he wants to see. Rear tires flat more often than front tires due to weight distribution and other factors like you're more likely to avoid debris with your front tire by veering away from it. Rear tires also wear faster, losing tread thickness = increase chance of flats.
Also let's ask what sealant he was using!
Any links?TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 5:34 amBecause it's been tested by both AeroCoach and BRR. I wouldn't give up the flat prevention of tubeless.HenryH wrote: ↑Tue Jun 15, 2021 9:18 pmJust out of curiosity - how would you know that is a wash?
Not that I would expect any huge changes either way myself.
Agree on trying to solve the problem with a tube sounds unlikely. If something is penetrating the tire causing a puncture the latex tube wouldn´t offer much extra protection. Normally it would be the other way around - I mean I went from latex to tubeless for the extra protection - not the other way around (I might be a fool though).
The OP is seeing what he wants to see. Rear tires flat more often than front tires due to weight distribution and other factors like you're more likely to avoid debris with your front tire by veering away from it. Rear tires also wear faster, losing tread thickness = increase chance of flats.
Also let's ask what sealant he was using!
Not trying to be an idiot, but I can't remember having seen specifically tubeless tyres being set up with latex by them? I know aerocoach is saying the tyres are the same, but to me it isn't clear if he means that GP5000 and GP5000TL are the same with latex and sealant or if the GP5000TL is the same with sealant and latex.
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https://www.aero-coach.co.uk/tubeless-s ... resistance
Of course you could setup a tubeless tire with Orange Seal, let it coat the inside and then suck it out with something like the KOM Cycling syringe. The tubeless tire will essentially have a very thin, "fused" latex lining and be faster than the same tire with a latex tube.
WHICH IS FASTER - TUBELESS OR CLINCHER?
Tubeless tyres use sealant to create an airtight seal and allow inflation, whereas clincher tyres use inner tubes. The speed of a tyre depends on its construction, not just on whether it is tubeless or clincher. This means that a slow tubeless tyre will have a higher rolling resistance than a fast clincher tyre, so each must be taken on their own merit. There is also overall no difference in rolling resistance between the same tyre set up tubeless with ~30ml of sealant, and using a latex tube.
Of course you could setup a tubeless tire with Orange Seal, let it coat the inside and then suck it out with something like the KOM Cycling syringe. The tubeless tire will essentially have a very thin, "fused" latex lining and be faster than the same tire with a latex tube.
orange seal, used the whole bottle already; I have now a problem with about 3mm cut on the side, it seals when the tyre is still even if I pump it to 95psi but on every ride it goes flat again.TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 5:34 amBecause it's been tested by both AeroCoach and BRR. I wouldn't give up the flat prevention of tubeless.HenryH wrote: ↑Tue Jun 15, 2021 9:18 pmJust out of curiosity - how would you know that is a wash?
Not that I would expect any huge changes either way myself.
Agree on trying to solve the problem with a tube sounds unlikely. If something is penetrating the tire causing a puncture the latex tube wouldn´t offer much extra protection. Normally it would be the other way around - I mean I went from latex to tubeless for the extra protection - not the other way around (I might be a fool though).
The OP is seeing what he wants to see. Rear tires flat more often than front tires due to weight distribution and other factors like you're more likely to avoid debris with your front tire by veering away from it. Rear tires also wear faster, losing tread thickness = increase chance of flats.
Also let's ask what sealant he was using!
I ll try some different sealant before I go the latex route; any experience with Joes racing or Mucoff no puncture hassle ?
Last edited by topt on Thu Jun 17, 2021 6:31 am, edited 3 times in total.
Thanks. Even if it isn't clear to me if they have tested the tubeless tires with latex in that test. The graph only shows the tire with varying degree of sealant?TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 7:18 amhttps://www.aero-coach.co.uk/tubeless-s ... resistance
WHICH IS FASTER - TUBELESS OR CLINCHER?
Tubeless tyres use sealant to create an airtight seal and allow inflation, whereas clincher tyres use inner tubes. The speed of a tyre depends on its construction, not just on whether it is tubeless or clincher. This means that a slow tubeless tyre will have a higher rolling resistance than a fast clincher tyre, so each must be taken on their own merit. There is also overall no difference in rolling resistance between the same tyre set up tubeless with ~30ml of sealant, and using a latex tube.
Of course you could setup a tubeless tire with Orange Seal, let it coat the inside and then suck it out with something like the KOM Cycling syringe. The tubeless tire will essentially have a very thin, "fused" latex lining and be faster than the same tire with a latex tube.
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That test is with sealant, not with a latex tube with sealant in a tubeless tyre
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