Help identifying Giant freehub *(REMOVAL ADVICE NEEDED)*

[naylor343]

I have a set of training wheels from a 2021 TCR. They are rim brake/QR and labled PR2, but, they do not resemble the PR2 wheels that have been provided on models from previous years. This years model comes with a 22mm ID rim and the hub is shaped differently.

Sadly, after much research, one thing that has not changed from previous years is the poor quality of bearing within the PR2 freehub. As everyone else I have come across reported, the freehub has become dry and stiff in operation. So much so that I can no longer use it as I fear the chain wrapping around the cassette when freewheeling.

There is no marking on the hub shell, but there is a number on the freehub. I have contacted giant to enquire if a freehub is available or who makes the hub, but have recieved zero response.

Anyone out there recognise the hub manufacturer , or if a freehub is available for it? Thanks.

[Mocs123]

I'm a complete novice in this area, but it might help identify the hub if you can tell how the freehub body comes off the hub. I know the DT Hugi (DT Swiss 240) hubs (and clones) just pull off and have a ratchet engagement system rather than the pawl's that most hubs use.

This might help you (or it may not)
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... ub-service

[naylor343]

I'm a complete novice in this area, but it might help identify the hub if you can tell how the freehub body comes off the hub. I know the DT Hugi (DT Swiss 240) hubs (and clones) just pull off and have a ratchet engagement system rather than the pawl's that most hubs use.

This might help you (or it may not)
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... ub-service

Thanks for the link. It comes off with a 12mm Allen key, which I am getting tomorrow. Usually at this price point they are not user serviceable, but until I get it off I do not know for sure.

[marsa]

Looks like Formula hub, but might be OEM-only model. However, you might be able to source spare freehub mechanism from a donor hub.

Formula road hubs:
https://www.formulahubs.com/product.php?t=2

By the way most likely it is shimano-like mechanism and could be disassembled and serviced, if it is not totally ruined.

Quick note on the allen key to remove the body - some Formula hubs has 12 and some has 11mm fitting.

[naylor343]

Looks like Formula hub, but might be OEM-only model. However, you might be able to source spare freehub mechanism from a donor hub.

Formula road hubs:
https://www.formulahubs.com/product.php?t=2

By the way most likely it is shimano-like mechanism and could be disassembled and serviced, if it is not totally ruined.

Quick note on the allen key to remove the body - some Formula hubs has 12 and some has 11mm fitting.

Thanks marsa. It does look kinda close to the RB-52, but as you say probably OEM only. Fingers crossed it's a 12mm or it's back on Amazon tomorrow. Fingers crossed if can be saved.

[naylor343]

Thanks for all the help guys. I guess the Giant office were on WeighWeenies today as I got a reply!

It is a "152A-11SP12-02 - SHIMANO FREEHUB BODY FOR R737R/ R716-R". Usual response is take it your local giant outlet....may be normal wear and tear... Good news is, it is only €14.99 from Giant spares, less than the cost of driving to Toulouse and back, so I will order 2 or 3 and that should keep them going for the forseeable future.

[Mocs123]

Glad you got what you needed, and good for Giant to sell them so cheap. I just bought a new freehub for my Bontrager wheels (DT Swiss 240 hubs) and it was $99.

[naylor343]

Advice needed on removal.

So, I got the info from Giant and ordered a long 12mm Allen key. I have the Allen key secured in a bench vice and even with my full force turning the wheel, it will not budge. Sealed around the Allen key with tape and filled the inner of the hub with penetrating fluid so it soaks the thread interface and let that soak overnight. Two of us turning the wheel and it looked like the spokes would pop, but still the freehub will not move. Also, before anyone asks, yes I am trying to undo it the correct way. The wheel is only 12 months old, little use and no corrosion, I just cannot understand it.

[jekyll man]

Advice needed on removal.

So, I got the info from Giant and ordered a long 12mm Allen key. I have the Allen key secured in a bench vice and even with my full force turning the wheel, it will not budge. Sealed around the Allen key with tape and filled the inner of the hub with penetrating fluid so it soaks the thread interface and let that soak overnight. Two of us turning the wheel and it looked like the spokes would pop, but still the freehub will not move. Also, before anyone asks, yes I am trying to undo it the correct way. The wheel is only 12 months old, little use and no corrosion, I just cannot understand it.

I've replaced a freehub on a fairly low end giant disc wheelset recently; I'm sure it fastened from the NDS, and not from the freehub side.
The bolt screws into the freehub, and not into the hub.
Also there's a washer between the hub body and freehub that sits in a very slight recess. It's quite easy to get it sat on the step during reassembly.

[naylor343]

Advice needed on removal.

So, I got the info from Giant and ordered a long 12mm Allen key. I have the Allen key secured in a bench vice and even with my full force turning the wheel, it will not budge. Sealed around the Allen key with tape and filled the inner of the hub with penetrating fluid so it soaks the thread interface and let that soak overnight. Two of us turning the wheel and it looked like the spokes would pop, but still the freehub will not move. Also, before anyone asks, yes I am trying to undo it the correct way. The wheel is only 12 months old, little use and no corrosion, I just cannot understand it.

I've replaced a freehub on a fairly low end giant disc wheelset recently; I'm sure it fastened from the NDS, and not from the freehub side.
The bolt screws into the freehub, and not into the hub.
Also there's a washer between the hub body and freehub that sits in a very slight recess. It's quite easy to get it sat on the step during reassembly.

Thanks Jekyll Man.

I must admit to being confused now. I contacted Giant with the wheel details and the part number on the freehub. They advised me of the part required and that it requires a 12mm Allen key to remove it. The Allen key can be engaged from either the drive side or non drive side. Whichever way it is turned, to tighten or loosen, and believe me with a lot of effort, it does not budge at all. Any more force than I am already using and the spokes are going to break.

[ghostinthemachine]

Pour an absolute shit load of boiling water through the hub. They've probably used too much thread lock.
Even if they haven't, the thermal shock might help.

[ghostinthemachine]

And the aluminum body that the steel bolt is threaded into will expand massively more than the bolt.

Might damage the bearing seals.
But. Nothing to lose really.

[naylor343]

And the aluminum body that the steel bolt is threaded into will expand massively more than the bolt.

Might damage the bearing seals.
But. Nothing to lose really.

Thanks Ghostmachine. Heat was going to be my last resort, but I guess that time is here!

[alcatraz]

I saw a seized shimano freehub removed similarly but with one difference.

The tool was in a vice, and the wheel on top. Then the guys tied a long 2by4 to the wheel in two locations and used that to really put some pressure. The spokes can take a static pressure more than impacts so if you get good leverage and kind of rock the thing a bit it should loosen.

Of course lots of heat on that axle will help. Heating it up fast should be to your advantage as aluminum transfers heat quicker than steel so it could be possible to get the aluminum outer threads to expand before the steel in the bolt does. But, as someone mentioned. Aluminum expands more so just raise the temperature and you'll get an advantage.

I don't see the point of using threadlocker, if it tightens automatically with use. So my guess is there isn't any. It does assume we know the direction of the threads. Ensure you know which was it loosens.

[marsa]

If this is indeed the correct spare part, then it does not have a separate hollow bolt and splines to put the freehub body on. The treads are part of the freehub and it is self-tightening while pedaling.

https://www.giantbikespares.com/Giant-F ... il/3-46792

Again, IF this is the correct part, you just need more force, and hope the wheel does not collapse.