Reading up more, I'd agree at 'road' pressures.rollinslow wrote: ↑Tue Apr 27, 2021 12:04 pmwow, that's crazy. I would pass on the 4.5AR. Why go hookless after this event? Get 5.6 disc which has hooks. No way hookless IMO.
Venge written off as Roval CL50 & Enve TLR tyre part company at 45kmh
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I wasn't overly concerned about the ripples when I saw them at all, then surprised that they had the effect they did (burped tyre?) but was happy with the need to correct, and it was during this additional steering input that the tyre totally checked out.Nickldn wrote: ↑Tue Apr 27, 2021 12:40 pm
On these photos the potholes in the road don't look particularly deep/sharp/dangerous. Par of the course for UK roads.
I ride through damaged road surfaces like this at 20mph (30khp) fairly often and would not consider them dangerous for the tyre/bike, just uncomfortable. 45kph may be a slightly different story, but still.
In general I see many more dangerous pot holes, which are deeper and with sharp edges.
This points to an issue with the wheel/tyre interface, or another fault, rather than just going too fast down a poorly surfaced road.
The council have now repaired the road, but like you, I've seen and sadly ridden through way worse.
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Enve 25s, measures a little wider on the Roval rim, 75psi in the front (5.17bar), I'm 73kg (160lbs)Mr.Gib wrote: ↑Tue Apr 27, 2021 11:15 pmThat road is rough but should not have caused a wheel or tire failure. We are guinea pigs for an industry that has us beta testing their shit. Tire should simply never come off a rim. You might still crash with a bad blowout, but this type of failure just ain't right.
Looks like you were on a decent sized tire. What size?, what pressure?
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You should also run the GP5000 TL IMO but requires a hooked rim. Huge PITA to put on which is how I know it isn't going to roll off. Didn't even require sealent, though I added it later.Nadsta wrote: ↑Tue Apr 27, 2021 11:29 pmReading up more, I'd agree at 'road' pressures.rollinslow wrote: ↑Tue Apr 27, 2021 12:04 pmwow, that's crazy. I would pass on the 4.5AR. Why go hookless after this event? Get 5.6 disc which has hooks. No way hookless IMO.
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So nothing crazy in the pressure department. Regardless, 25mm tires shouldn't be "burping". It's going to be very difficult to ever figure out what tire at what pressure on what rim is actually safe with incidents like this. One day someone very rich in the USA is going to be paralyzed in a tire/rim failure and a civil jury will have the guy backing an armoured car up to the local wheel/tire manufacturer. Hope they all have good insurance. What happened to you should simply have never happened.Nadsta wrote: ↑Tue Apr 27, 2021 11:38 pmEnve 25s, measures a little wider on the Roval rim, 75psi in the front (5.17bar), I'm 73kg (160lbs)Mr.Gib wrote: ↑Tue Apr 27, 2021 11:15 pmThat road is rough but should not have caused a wheel or tire failure. We are guinea pigs for an industry that has us beta testing their shit. Tire should simply never come off a rim. You might still crash with a bad blowout, but this type of failure just ain't right.
Looks like you were on a decent sized tire. What size?, what pressure?
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.
Was it overinflated, and then the heat increased the pressure? (fyi my pump pressure gauge is way off, 200psi displays as like 80psi haha. luckily i'm aware of it)
How's the rim? Is it possible a part of the wall holding the bead failed?
I remember when discbrake wheels started coming out in lightweight versions that the rim weights quite significantly surpassed the rim brake versions. I guess they found out that you could build clinchers a lot lighter by weakening the rims there. The max allowed pressure went down a lot too. Isn't this a common practice now?
I wonder if this wheel is one of those new generation ones that departs from the old hooked kind with a high pressure allowance. Maybe it has softer carbon and weaker walls than we are used to. Just speculating.
Another point is the big drop in max pressure when going from 25C tires to 28C. There's a big jump there for some reason. (GP5000)
For a tire to be able to stretch and flip like that I'm thinking one of the kevlar beads failed in the tire, or the rim did on that side.
How's the rim? Is it possible a part of the wall holding the bead failed?
I remember when discbrake wheels started coming out in lightweight versions that the rim weights quite significantly surpassed the rim brake versions. I guess they found out that you could build clinchers a lot lighter by weakening the rims there. The max allowed pressure went down a lot too. Isn't this a common practice now?
I wonder if this wheel is one of those new generation ones that departs from the old hooked kind with a high pressure allowance. Maybe it has softer carbon and weaker walls than we are used to. Just speculating.
Another point is the big drop in max pressure when going from 25C tires to 28C. There's a big jump there for some reason. (GP5000)
For a tire to be able to stretch and flip like that I'm thinking one of the kevlar beads failed in the tire, or the rim did on that side.
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Interesting. I'm UK based as well, and a friend pursued the council for a damaged wheel and tyre sustained via hitting a pothole [no damage to him, thankfully]. It took him months to get a payout - though he did in the end - but what was notable was the pothole was repaired within a week of him first contacting them. Did you contact the council about this or suggest they have some liability?
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No way those "potholes" (not even really potholes) should have caused any failure. Either the tire was faulty, the rim was faulty or user error was involved somehow. I've run into steel plates that damaged my rim's bead hooks while also causing double instantaneous flats on Fusion 5 Galactiks and the tires didn't explode off the rim.
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Hugely incorrect tyre pressure or a completely botched installation aside, I'm not even sure what kind of 'user error' could cause that kind of catastrophic failure on a non-faulty tyre/rim combo. As noted, the indentations don't appear especially deep or sharp; I'd expect to be able to ride over them head on at full pelt, if I so chose, without experiencing anything worse than a bumpy ride. I ride regularly on very similar roads and relatively routinely hit similar sections at speed. While I've experienced the odd hard jolt and occasional disconcerting, carbon-sounding noise, have never had anything worse than a standard puncture [and not even that with tubeless].TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑Wed Apr 28, 2021 10:57 amNo way those "potholes" (not even really potholes) should have caused any failure. Either the tire was faulty, the rim was faulty or user error was involved somehow. I've run into steel plates that damaged my rim's bead hooks while also causing double instantaneous flats on Fusion 5 Galactiks and the tires didn't explode off the rim.
My personal experience with roval clx 50 is that tyres come off very easily.
The only time inner tube exploded tyre came off. Luckily I was on a 10% climb. No drama, but put me wondering what could happen, a few minutes later, while descending....
At that time I blamed my turbo cotton tyre, but I realized that wheel is also to blame. I now use continental 5000 (for tubes) and I think it won't come off so easily.
I have another set of wheels (duke baccara) and they seem much more safe holding tyre.
I am wondering if using tubeless with a tubeless insert, for example tubolight, might be safer than using inner tube...
The only time inner tube exploded tyre came off. Luckily I was on a 10% climb. No drama, but put me wondering what could happen, a few minutes later, while descending....
At that time I blamed my turbo cotton tyre, but I realized that wheel is also to blame. I now use continental 5000 (for tubes) and I think it won't come off so easily.
I have another set of wheels (duke baccara) and they seem much more safe holding tyre.
I am wondering if using tubeless with a tubeless insert, for example tubolight, might be safer than using inner tube...
I'd like to #metoo here. It was maybe 3 years ago I installed 1st gen 25mm Fusion 5 Performance TL (not the 11storm) on the CLX at 70psi. In a big round about that should be safe for 40kmh in the inner loop, the front suddenly lost it and I spilled. When I picked up the bike i could tell the front has lost a large portion of air. It was only 1x psi when I back to car park.
Friends don't let friends ride CLX with loose or narrow tubeless. Take care.
Friends don't let friends ride CLX with loose or narrow tubeless. Take care.
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I see quite a few anecdotes of Roval CLX failures. Is this a common issue for these wheels?
I've had flats but no failures, but it was a bit concerning how easy the bead would come off at times. I decided to not hedge my bets.Usernamealex wrote: ↑Wed Apr 28, 2021 2:54 pmI see quite a few anecdotes of Roval CLX failures. Is this a common issue for these wheels?
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