Zipp 2020
Moderator: robbosmans
Unfortunately none of those sources would hold up in court. I bet to say that Wikipedia is even more reliable than those news outlets which are heavily relying on the big brands to keep their pants up.
That being said, from all I've read there's a very very minor advantage to the wave structure. At least there's no disadvantage to having them, but costs per watt saved are probably in the $500-1.000 range.
That being said, from all I've read there's a very very minor advantage to the wave structure. At least there's no disadvantage to having them, but costs per watt saved are probably in the $500-1.000 range.
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quite like the idea and love to own a pair to show off. i can also understand why they price it such way. but the poor man inside me can help but to think 303fc relaced to a pair of carbon-ti hubs will offer pretty much the same thing and cost less. the 303fc stability is already ridiculous good, hard to imagine it can be more stable or the benefit of it if it is marginally better.
also anyone notice there are now 5 bearings in the rear hub? two on non drive side.
yes, historically straight pull is abit lighter than J bend and arguably at lower end of the spectrum where material of construction is less premium, corrosion at the bend is also a concern. however, i think technologies have moved on and clearly practicality is more important in many situations.
also anyone notice there are now 5 bearings in the rear hub? two on non drive side.
ms6073 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 5:22 pmI am guessing it hinged on j-bend spokes being more readily available and maybe SRAM/Zipp is trying to move away from the bad PR after the rear hub flange issues from several years ago. At least that is why I no longer ride Zipp wheels, well, that and the silly US $4000 price tag!WorkonSunday wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 11:48 aminteresting they switched to J bend. now 303s and FC are also J bend. i wonder whats the shift in design philosophy
Ypuh wrote: ↑Wed Apr 21, 2021 9:17 amIt's not a bad thing right? One of the things I like most about Zipp is that they're some of the most serviceable wheels out of the top brands (more than Enve for example). Traditional spoke holes, outside nipples, regular Sapim spokes, easy to service hub bearings etc. J-bends make it even easier than straight pull, although it's not much of a difference (more spoke patterns, less spoke-twisting, easier available). Only downside (correct me if I'm wrong) might be looks, but I don't find straight pull that much better looking to be fair.WorkonSunday wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 11:48 aminteresting they switched to J bend. now 303s and FC are also J bend. i wonder whats the shift in design philosophy
yes, historically straight pull is abit lighter than J bend and arguably at lower end of the spectrum where material of construction is less premium, corrosion at the bend is also a concern. however, i think technologies have moved on and clearly practicality is more important in many situations.
Some say pour 10ml water out of your bottle to save that last bit of the weight. Sorry, i go one step further, i tend to the rider off my bikes.
n+1...14 last time i checked, but i lost count
n+1...14 last time i checked, but i lost count
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Anyone wanna share experiences with the 2020/2021 Zipp 303S regarding crosswinds and hub engagement?
Considering purchasing them as a "cheap" temporary wheelset for my road bike, and eventually pass them on to my gravel bike if some more tempting high end wheel becomes available at a reasonable price locally.
Considering purchasing them as a "cheap" temporary wheelset for my road bike, and eventually pass them on to my gravel bike if some more tempting high end wheel becomes available at a reasonable price locally.
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Have them on my gravel bike, have only done a couple hundred kms so far but so far:
Haven't felt unstable, certainly no worse than other 40-50mm depth wheels I've tried. Engagement is fine, not spectacular but more than ok for my needs. And they look cool Finish has proved more scratch proof than I feared, haven't found any marks yet despite being in the back of a car a few times and on some decent gravel.
Haven't felt unstable, certainly no worse than other 40-50mm depth wheels I've tried. Engagement is fine, not spectacular but more than ok for my needs. And they look cool Finish has proved more scratch proof than I feared, haven't found any marks yet despite being in the back of a car a few times and on some decent gravel.
Cannondale SSEvo3 'Atticus' - 7.2kg
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161634
Cannondale Systemsix ’Dante’ - 7.7kg
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=167144
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161634
Cannondale Systemsix ’Dante’ - 7.7kg
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=167144
Thanks, any signs of the imperfections in the carbon layup seen/mentioned here ? :Jackofallgrades wrote: ↑Tue May 11, 2021 5:49 pmHave them on my gravel bike, have only done a couple hundred kms so far but so far:
Haven't felt unstable, certainly no worse than other 40-50mm depth wheels I've tried. Engagement is fine, not spectacular but more than ok for my needs. And they look cool Finish has proved more scratch proof than I feared, haven't found any marks yet despite being in the back of a car a few times and on some decent gravel.
https://youtu.be/CAml1vnDDcI?t=597
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8NPbLqY4z8&t=147s
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I haven't seen anyone actually showing them to be imperfections, just natural weave of the carbon, I don't think it's an issue at all. I have different shades across the rim as you can see in those videos but nothing too pronounced.
Cannondale SSEvo3 'Atticus' - 7.2kg
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161634
Cannondale Systemsix ’Dante’ - 7.7kg
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=167144
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=161634
Cannondale Systemsix ’Dante’ - 7.7kg
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=167144
Thanks, ended up buying a set today, inspected them before purchase. Pattern looked more regular than in those videos, could only see traces of 1 joint and there was a microscopic chip in the clear coat.
Noticed however when I came home that something is loose in the rear wheel, will have to get creative with a vacuum or similar. Shop said they had sold 303S like hot cakes, they pre-ordred 25 sets to have stock for the whole year, and 20 are already gone.
Noticed however when I came home that something is loose in the rear wheel, will have to get creative with a vacuum or similar. Shop said they had sold 303S like hot cakes, they pre-ordred 25 sets to have stock for the whole year, and 20 are already gone.
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Zipp 353 NSW at 1,305g with tapes and valves.
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- Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2020 3:37 pm
Although I still don't see them work for road, they are definitely very light.
Cervelo P5 Disc (2021) 9.1kg
Factor Ostro Gravel (2023) 8.0kg
S-Works SL8 (2023) 6.3kg
*weights are race ready, size 58/L.
Sold: Venge, S5 Disc, Roubaix Team, Open WI.DE, Émonda, Shiv TT, Crux, Aethos, SL7
Factor Ostro Gravel (2023) 8.0kg
S-Works SL8 (2023) 6.3kg
*weights are race ready, size 58/L.
Sold: Venge, S5 Disc, Roubaix Team, Open WI.DE, Émonda, Shiv TT, Crux, Aethos, SL7
Sorry for the dumb question for experts like yourselves:
I just ordered a set of 303fc's online, after striking out at every bike shop nearby. This is my first new wheelset, so I'm not quite sure what I need to do to set them up. Is it as simple as attaching the the disc rotors and cassette?
Thanks !
I just ordered a set of 303fc's online, after striking out at every bike shop nearby. This is my first new wheelset, so I'm not quite sure what I need to do to set them up. Is it as simple as attaching the the disc rotors and cassette?
Thanks !
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I use them for road, they add a ton of cushion if inflated to the recommended PSI per weight, especially on imperfect roads. I think they are a great choice for anyone that rides 28s or wider.FlatlandClimber wrote: ↑Sun May 16, 2021 2:31 pmAlthough I still don't see them work for road, they are definitely very light.
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Yes, but you should also make sure the wheels work with whatever axel setup in in your frame e,g thru axels, qr ect...). There are probably videos in YouTube that would help.Andstuff wrote: ↑Mon May 17, 2021 2:30 pmSorry for the dumb question for experts like yourselves:
I just ordered a set of 303fc's online, after striking out at every bike shop nearby. This is my first new wheelset, so I'm not quite sure what I need to do to set them up. Is it as simple as attaching the the disc rotors and cassette?
Thanks !
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- Posts: 2491
- Joined: Tue Mar 31, 2020 3:37 pm
I have the ENVE 4.5 AR for years now and never got them to work for road for me. Despite the 250g more weight, they should feel very similar to the ZIPPs in every other department. I am running 30c tires on my road bike, so the width itself isn't the issue itself.RideRunSwim wrote: ↑Mon May 17, 2021 2:50 pmI use them for road, they add a ton of cushion if inflated to the recommended PSI per weight, especially on imperfect roads. I think they are a great choice for anyone that rides 28s or wider.FlatlandClimber wrote: ↑Sun May 16, 2021 2:31 pmAlthough I still don't see them work for road, they are definitely very light.
Things that keep me from riding hookless for road:
- pressure is limited to 72psi (I am running 75/78psi on my 30c at sub 80kg system weight)
- tire choice is limited (my favorite road tires, GP5000 and Turbo Cotton, and my favorite winter tires, Cinturato, are all incompatible)
- I have yet to be convinced of tubeless for road. For Gravel/ MTB it is great. But for road? I couldn't find any advantage yet, despite it sealing a hole from time to time, after the tire has lost so much air, that I need to pump it up anyway.
Cervelo P5 Disc (2021) 9.1kg
Factor Ostro Gravel (2023) 8.0kg
S-Works SL8 (2023) 6.3kg
*weights are race ready, size 58/L.
Sold: Venge, S5 Disc, Roubaix Team, Open WI.DE, Émonda, Shiv TT, Crux, Aethos, SL7
Factor Ostro Gravel (2023) 8.0kg
S-Works SL8 (2023) 6.3kg
*weights are race ready, size 58/L.
Sold: Venge, S5 Disc, Roubaix Team, Open WI.DE, Émonda, Shiv TT, Crux, Aethos, SL7
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FlatlandClimber wrote: ↑Mon May 17, 2021 3:44 pm
- I have yet to be convinced of tubeless for road. For Gravel/ MTB it is great. But for road? I couldn't find any advantage yet, despite it sealing a hole from time to time, after the tire has lost so much air, that I need to pump it up anyway.
I've been running 25mm Corsa Speeds on shitty roads at 85psi for the past month. I've had one puncture which sealed instantly...lost 1-2psi. The tread is cut up, but I'm using flexible sealant/goo on the outside to fill in the openings. Seriously, I rode through East Palo Alto -> across the Dumbarton Bridge -> South Fremont. Another Bay Area resident can tell you how much glass there is on that route...and the joy that is Marshland Rd.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
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