Lightest aluminum rim brake wheelset?

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Nefarious86
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by Nefarious86

What would be a solid training setup with the RL90 in your opinion without weighing too much or costing silly $? I'm considering moving the 1400s onto my partners bike with tubes and standard clinchers as she isn't interested in tubeless and building myself something more tubeless friendly in terms of tyre retention when flat.
20/24 or 24/24 on DT240 hubs? Would the Open pro UST be better?

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robertbb
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by robertbb

Dude, I have the setup you're after in my cupboard. Just waiting to be built.

DT240's front and rear (24/28), DT Aerolite spokes in correct lengths for a 2x rear and radial front, and wheelsmith nipples. And of course the R90SL rims. Everything is new, except the rear hub which is used.

I'm not gonna get around to building or using them any time soon, so if you're interested PM me and give me a number. Should be cheap to box up and send to Syd.

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GlasNago
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by GlasNago

MAVIC R-SYS SLR CLINCHER WHEELSET
sub 1.3kilo
3.990 kilo cannondale supersix himod (2016)
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=160600#p1549663

tonchy
Posts: 171
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by tonchy

GlasNago wrote:
Sat Dec 28, 2019 1:47 pm
MAVIC R-SYS SLR CLINCHER WHEELSET
sub 1.3kilo
Internal width = 15mm, OP is after 19,5mm.

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jbott
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by jbott

After digesting all recommedations of what not to do, and what to do, I have decided I like the idea of:

Extralight straightpull hubs
24 front, 28 rear
CX Ray spokes
Alloy nipples
Still up in the air on the rims.


Probably Easton R90SLs

Always been a fan of HED and the Belgium Plus looks good too.

I have a pair of Rolf Elan Alpha wheels. The actual weight and certain features of the wheelset has me looking elsewhere than Rolf for my new rims.



Any opinions on straight pull spokes/hubs vs traditional? The hubs are lighter. Haven't broke a spoke in years.

m66
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by m66

Nefarious86 wrote:
Fri Dec 27, 2019 6:25 am


Image
Cool pic man, and sweet bike...but that beard gotta be costing you some watts - regardless of what the win tunnel test shows, becuase, uh, that dudes beard wasn't half down his chest lol

Nefarious86
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by Nefarious86

Racing on shallow wheels with round bars and exposed cables.. The beard is the least of my areo sins

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dim
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by dim

bm0p700f wrote:
Fri Dec 27, 2019 11:09 am
Easton rl90 are a better rim with improved tubeless compatibility over the hed rims

Tubeless compatibility is kot just about seat and sealing the tyre. The tyre has to remain seated without air. Once setup and come sealant refill time or a flat I have not found the hed rims reliably hold onto the tyre or if the they do the retention seem weak so even I serting a plug causes it to unseat. That to me is not tubeless compatible. The issue is with an alloy rim at this price everything should be spot on.

HED and DT swiss lack a bump next to the channel to keep the tyre seated. Kinlin dont use a bump but a rise to the central channel which does the same thing, keeps the tyres seated.

Mavic ust rims have the bump. Pacenti dont but tyres stay seated.

Hed and dt swiss rims rely on the gluing effect of the sealant and tyre bead friction alone but this is not that relaible.

This is not my opinion it is how these rims are. Yet the manufacturers.swear blind that they are tubeless compatible which also.means they dont understand tubeless compatibility. Hed and dt swiss rims do not meet the new retro road tubeless standard that also a fact.
ok ....

a few months ago, when you stocked HED Belgium Plus rims.... they were the best (you stated that on this forum) .... then a few months later, you had a rant saying that HED would not give you the rims at a discount price to sell on to the public (it's here on this forum) .....

then, soon after that, you started saying that the HED Belgium Plus were crap and that the tyres fall off when you get a puncture because they don't have an extra raised section, and you started pushing your Kinlins and others which you stock

OK, lets get things straight ...

No one has ever complained on any forum or the internet about tyres falling off HED Belgium Plus rims when they get a flat .... if someone has crashed or got injured due to this, please supply the link

look at the reviews about tubeless tyres being nearly imposible to mount on tubeless rims ... it's not the tyres, it's the rims and the rim tape ... whats the point of buying tyres, and you cannot fit them easily? ....

have a puncture on the road where the tubeless sealant does not sort it and you cannot remove the tyre or refit it?... this is what puts people off trying tubeless ... 7you end up phoning momma to come fetch you as you are stranded

thats why some rims are named as tubeless compatable or tubeless easy .... HED even has new rim tape where only 1 layer of tape is required .... tyres fit by hand and your IRC tubeless tyre levers are not required ....(they are very good though)

so, .... I'm riding along with my HED Belgium Plus rims and my Continental GP5000 TL 32mm tyres .... I get a puncture.... sealant squirts out and the sealant does not seal the puncture .... all the sealant squirts out and my tyre is completely flat and the beads pop out

what now? .... 2 options .... either I plug the hole with a dynaplug (I see that you still use worms, but that's so yesterday .... you need dynaplugs) and then add an inner tube, (If I am going to add an innertub, I don't even have to plug the hole) .... or I add more sealant, plug the hole and inflate with a CO2 25g Lenzye Control drive with the valve at the 12 O'clock position .... I dont faff with a micro pump .... it will not work, no matter how many times I furiously pump... if I have to add an inner tube, no loss, as if I had clinchers, I would have to do that anyway

I use Orange regular sealant and it does not interfere with the CO2.... even if it does, I can ride thousands of miles before the next puncture. With one layer of the new HED tape, I don't even need sealant as the tyre is totally sealed when pumped up

so, now you will say that yes, it's dangerous if you are riding and loose all the air and the tyre unseats ..... even if the tyre is still seated and you get a big gash and loose all the air instantly, you are in danger .... the exact same danger if the tyre unseats

so, stop stressing and criticizing HED Belgium Plus rims (you do that often, and I'm starting to get the impression that you dislike the company or someone who works there?) ....

and don't stock too many of your other hard to fit tyre rims in your shop as rumour has it that Continental will be involved in 2020 to set the standards as regards tubeless rims ... and from what Ihave heard, HED Belgium Plus are on the list ... so start stocking them 8)

Here's an interesting article:
https://www.bicycleretailer.com/sites/d ... 0Nicol.pdf

you need to take a step back and re-evaluate how to use tubeless tyres .... things and times have changed ...

there's a saying .... If you use yesterday's technology today, you will be out of business tomorow :smartass:
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Neez333
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Joined: Thu Aug 08, 2019 12:36 am

by Neez333

My newest build

-Bitex sl hubs: -RAR12 & RAF12
-Kinlin xr200: 24 & 28 hole rims
-Sapim Polyax Secure lock nipples
-Berd spokes (52ct)

Total weight expected = 1201.1 grams. :mrgreen: for apx $650

alcatraz
Posts: 4064
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by alcatraz

Neez333 wrote:
Wed Jul 29, 2020 7:17 pm
My newest build

-Bitex sl hubs: -RAR12 & RAF12
-Kinlin xr200: 24 & 28 hole rims
-Sapim Polyax Secure lock nipples
-Berd spokes (52ct)

Total weight expected = 1201.1 grams. :mrgreen: for apx $650
Holy crap. Berd spokes meet kinlin cx200 rims. I wonder how polymer spokes hold up under such large tension variation of a soft rim cx200 build. Do the ds spokes stretch if you go into a pothole or what? Hmm...

I bet the rear wheel will be really tricky, or impossible. Please, let us know how they hold up.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

I'm building a set of extra lite hub on those xr200 rims with carats 24/28r. Expected mass is 1210g. So really what the point in the berd spokes.

spscho
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by spscho

I've been building up a set of great value lightweight alloy clinchers for lighter riders (<80kg)

Ryde Pulse Comp rims ~410g each (£50 a pair)
Bitex RAR12 Rear hub (28h) ~ 210g (£70)
American Classic Micro 58 Front hub ~58g (£27)
Sapim D-light spokes with Polyax alloy nipples x56 (~ £43)

Overall wheelset weight - 1412g on my scales
Overall wheelset cost - ~ £190

Hard to beat that price on a similar weight with an off the shelf wheelset!
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adamstokes8
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by adamstokes8

I'd second c24s inasmuch that they're really sturdy and durable. Easy to service hubs. But if you're not using them often (e.g. only on vacation) then these traits aren't necessarily that advantageous.

alcatraz
Posts: 4064
Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2016 11:19 am

by alcatraz

C24 alloy rims are 356gr each. That's quite amazing. With a 20h count I wonder if that really is a solid wheel. (The hub looks really good.) The spokes and hub must be quite massive.

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heartofsteel
Posts: 5
Joined: Mon Apr 26, 2021 12:45 pm
Location: Edinburgh

by heartofsteel

Question on hubs: Extralite hubs seem to come in about 100g lighter for the pair than cheaper chinese hubs like novatec or bitex. But, they are also about £300 more per pair. Are we paying simply for the lighter weight, or are extralite better in other ways - weather resistance, durability...?

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