Going from 28mm tires on 700c rims to 35mm tires on 650B change anything?
Moderator: robbosmans
Thinking about getting a set of 650B wheels so I can fit wider 35mm tires on my Moots. Mainly for winter and poor riding conditions, and on ocassion, 10% gravel riding if I can find any gravel roads along the way.
Will this affect handling on my Moots Vamoots Disc RSL? I'm on 28mm tires with 700c Enve 3.4AR rims. Anyone do this?
Will this affect handling on my Moots Vamoots Disc RSL? I'm on 28mm tires with 700c Enve 3.4AR rims. Anyone do this?
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slight... very slight slowing of handling.
BB clearance will lower unless you end up with 650x50+ for similar outer diameter to 700x28 (keep that in mind with rocks and carving corners)
BB clearance will lower unless you end up with 650x50+ for similar outer diameter to 700x28 (keep that in mind with rocks and carving corners)
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2019 Parlee Z0XD - "classified"
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700x28 to 650x35 will induce a 12mm lower BB and axle height, so while handling will be slower due to the larger rubber the trail of the bike will be shrunken, making the steering twitchier. And 12mm lower will make pedal strikes that much more common.
Also the 38mm tire will most likely weigh a lot more than the 28mm, so acceleration aka spin up will take more effort.
Thx for the answers.
So about half an inch...may make a difference in cornering...but going into winter, may not be that critical since I'll techincally be slower with less fitness.
Gettng a gravel bike just to take out on 3-4 rides during the year doesn't make much sense at the moment just to try for gravels sake. I think if I had more gravel roads around me, I would most likely take the plunge for a dedicated gravel bike.
So about half an inch...may make a difference in cornering...but going into winter, may not be that critical since I'll techincally be slower with less fitness.
Gettng a gravel bike just to take out on 3-4 rides during the year doesn't make much sense at the moment just to try for gravels sake. I think if I had more gravel roads around me, I would most likely take the plunge for a dedicated gravel bike.
- Factor Ostro VAM Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
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- Posts: 206
- Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 8:54 pm
A 1/2" or 12mm difference is ENORMOUS when dealing with BB drop and axle height. It's basically the difference in running 28mm vs 40mm tires in the other direction. It will completely change the character of your Moots, which is one of the finest riding bikes around.kode54 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 08, 2019 8:41 pmThx for the answers.
So about half an inch...may make a difference in cornering...but going into winter, may not be that critical since I'll techincally be slower with less fitness.
Gettng a gravel bike just to take out on 3-4 rides during the year doesn't make much sense at the moment just to try for gravels sake. I think if I had more gravel roads around me, I would most likely take the plunge for a dedicated gravel bike.
If all you can fit is 28mm in 700c or 35mm in 650B I think you'd be better off getting a set of 700c tubulars. Put on some nice supple fast 28mm cx pattern tires, run lower pressures and you'll get at least the comfort and grip of 35mm clinchers if not 35mm tubeless and you won't screw up your handling. As for weight, tubular rims are usually 50-100g lighter than clinchers, so running a heavier cx tubular tire on the lighter rims will keep the rotating mass about the same. Also tubulars will be safer on the grimier winter roads since they handle flats much better.
Have to disagree here, 12mm BB drop difference isn't something you will feel directly.
The thing you feel most is front wheel weight and front tire deformation, which depends on casing, width and pressure.
I run 650b x 38 to 50 as well as 700c x 23 to 35mm in my bikes and that's my personal experience.
The thing you feel most is front wheel weight and front tire deformation, which depends on casing, width and pressure.
I run 650b x 38 to 50 as well as 700c x 23 to 35mm in my bikes and that's my personal experience.
thx for that. I may try it to see. Don't have the room for a dedicated gravel bike. I'm hoping that I can get away with just another wheelset at 650B instead of an entire gravel bike.
- Factor Ostro VAM Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
- Factor LS Disc
- Specialized Aethos Disc
- Sturdy Ti Allroad Disc
- Guru Praemio R Disc
I have some doubts 32mm to 42mm is big change.. tires are likely to be wider if inner rim width is low too. Generally chainstays are the narrow part.
2024 BMC TeamMachine R Building
2018 BMC TImeMachine Road
2002 Moots Compact-SL- getting aero look makeover
2019 Parlee Z0XD - "classified"
2023 Pivot E-Vault - completed project, full Xplr package
2018 BMC TImeMachine Road
2002 Moots Compact-SL- getting aero look makeover
2019 Parlee Z0XD - "classified"
2023 Pivot E-Vault - completed project, full Xplr package
I really like 650 x 42mm. With Pari-Motos or something similar you can ride road and off-road really well.
This chart is helpful: https://www.bikecalc.com/wheel_size_math
As above, usually you are limited by the chainstays.
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Can't know until you've tried it.
On that note, I tried it. Going from 700x25 to 650x38 on a Crux changed the handling and balance mightily. Wheels were Reynolds ATRx 700c and Zipp 303 650b. The chainstaiys on the Crux weren't designed for 650b so the largest points between the stays was at a choke point of the 650x38 and 42s. Clearance of 4mm on 700x40s was same as 650x38, which sound counterintuitive until you remember the chainstay shape is optimized for 700c.
Until you learn by trial and error I think the best bet would be to try more supple tires instead of just larger tires. Numbers are empirical, while riding is not.
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