Wheels for high-end winter bike

[Hexsense]

Another thing is that i can create brake rub with front disk when i torque the bike sideway in a certain way. Like brake into sharp corner then stand and sprint out of it.
If I know i have a good front hub, i can always blame it to fork flexing (Tarmac SL6 fork on Allez Sprint Disc).
But since i use Novatech, now i don't know if it's the hub or fork that flexes.
Wish i had gone back in time and spend extra money and gain weight for hub that i don't have any doubt in it.

[wfcarrot]

I would like to recommend Shimano wheels for winter/rainy riding since their hubs are really reliable during the wet condition also easy to service.

[jfranci3]

Another thing is that i can create brake rub with front disk when i torque the bike sideway in a certain way. Like brake into sharp corner then stand and sprint out of it.
If I know i have a good front hub, i can always blame it to fork flexing (Tarmac SL6 fork on Allez Sprint Disc).
But since i use Novatech, now i don't know if it's the hub or fork that flexes.
Wish i had gone back in time and spend extra money and gain weight for hub that i don't have any doubt in it.

What? I can see the hub sliding sideways if the end caps are too narrow, but the disc is pretty well isolated from anything going on with the hub flange. Also the spokes will flex before the hub flange would. This sounds like the TA is undersized or the end cap ID over sized or the end cap OD is undersized. Are you using the right end cap?

[Bigger Gear]

I should have clarified in my original response, but the concern I would have using a carbon rim with salty wet roads is mostly the at the nipple interface. An aluminum alloy nipple, carbon surface, and salty water is recipe for corrosion. Even with brass I would not be 100% confident of no corrosion but it would certainly be better.

I think there are some images out there of older Edge/Enve rims built with internal alloy nipples (forget the brand name, Japanese) and the corrosion was quite bad.

[Multebear]

An aluminum alloy nipple, carbon surface, and salty water is recipe for corrosion.

Are you sure about this? I'm not stating, it isn't true, but I just don't understand the logic/science behind it. How is nipple corrosion worse with carbon rims than with alloy rims?

[jfranci3]

Raw carbon on raw AL will. Finished will not. Carbon is going to have resin on it, the nipple will be painted or anodized. If you’re worried about it, you can just put some wax chain lube on it

[wintershade]

I'd have some custom wheels made with
- DT hubs,
- Enve or Zipp rims or whatever rims you like
- DT Aerolite or Sapim cx-ray spokes.

How big of a difference do you think running a 17 vs 19c rim will make, assuming I want to run 30c Pro One Speed TL, or perhaps occasionally 28s. Aside from weight of the WTOs, that's the biggest advantage they have over the Zondas + Shamals (which are 17C). There is also the Fulcrum 3 DB which is affordable Zonda level but with 19C or the Fulcrum Zero DB which is also 19c vs the Shamals at 17.

I'm also looking into a simple DT 240 + HED Belgium combo, though I think it might be kind of nice to have an all Campy bike.

[Multebear]

^inner width is something, that never interested me much. I always choose wide rims in general when building wheels, and the inner width follows to some degree the outher width.

At the moment I ride my cx bike on the road from time to time. When I do, I have DT 460 DB rims with 18c, and I'm running 32 mm tires. It's not a fast setup, but the ride feel and comfort is fantastic. I really doubt many people feel the difference in a few mm inner width. All modern rims have wider inner width, which is why it doesn't concern me much.

I have no experience with tubeless.

240 and Belgums is damn fine combo. Don't get too hung up on the all italian thing. It prevents you from picking the best parts for your needs.

[wintershade]

I went ahead with the Bora WTO 45s. I just liked the idea of an all Campy bike (all the fonts, finishes, etc. will match) vs a custom rim/hub combo.

To be honest, I'm not sure what perfromance benefit there is from a set of carbon clincher wheels vs an equal weight aluminum set like the Shamal Ultras. I can't imagine aero will matter on a full fender winter bike. But the 19c internal rim seemed preferable and it's hard to argue with the aesthetics.

[WinterRider]

Here is the tool to service CK hubs and it comes with the technical manual. I had never heard of not being allowed to purchase a tool without attending a clinic, another urban legend I guess.....

https://chrisking.com/collections/hub-t ... 5-hub-tool

R45 HUB TOOL
REGULAR PRICE$188.00
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