I get all the spokes to the right tension while getting the wheel straight radially and laterally. Once the wheel is round, I just tension all the spokes on the DS to pull the dish over. Or you can loosen the NDS, depends on how much tension are in the spokes.vinc wrote: ↑Fri May 13, 2022 9:24 amHi, I have the same with my Kaze 50 discs. At first I didn’t notice it but the rear wheel isn’t exactly centered. It may be 1-2 mm of the drive side. How did you manage to get them centered yet?joeminglin wrote:...Rear wheel dish needs to be pulled 1mm to the drive side….
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FARSPORTS DISC CARBON WHEELSET Test & Review
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Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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What's more important, tension up the low tension spokes or get it trued first? - Depends on the current tension of your spokes. The Feder rims have a spoke tension range of 110kgf front and 120-130kgf rearPoorCyclist wrote: ↑Sat May 14, 2022 9:55 pmI want to true my farsport front wheel myself, it's a bit out of true and the non-disc side have some spoke that sound too low.
I got the tools but have not tried to DIY this. I have a some round spoke, 32H wheels to practice on first.
What's more important, tension up the low tension spokes or get it trued first? Or will these goals converge together assuming the rim is straight?
Or will these goals converge together assuming the rim is straight? - You can build a straight wheel with the spoke tension being way off...will the wheel last as long, no.
These are good resources:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... rim-truing
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... easurement
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... -centering
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Thanks I got thru the first basics link but gives some idea what to dojoeminglin wrote: ↑Mon May 16, 2022 2:58 pmWhat's more important, tension up the low tension spokes or get it trued first? - Depends on the current tension of your spokes. The Feder rims have a spoke tension range of 110kgf front and 120-130kgf rear
Or will these goals converge together assuming the rim is straight? - You can build a straight wheel with the spoke tension being way off...will the wheel last as long, no.
These are good resources:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... rim-truing
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... easurement
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... -centering
My $20 ztto tension gauge today and I was able to confirm the majority of the spokes being 110kgf on the disc side. A couple spokes were low.
The non-disc side is more wild, most of them seem to be at deflection 9 (73 kgf) but then the next spoke suddenly 5 or 6 (53 kgf).
But gives a baseline numbers for the lower spokes, I should at least bring them up to be closer to their neightbors. Kind of nervous about messing up the dish or getting a radial hop. Still waiting for the thru axle adapter for my stand.
Thanks, I might give this a try or just leave it like it is… not sure yet.joeminglin wrote:I get all the spokes to the right tension while getting the wheel straight radially and laterally. Once the wheel is round, I just tension all the spokes on the DS to pull the dish over. Or you can loosen the NDS, depends on how much tension are in the spokes.vinc wrote: ↑Fri May 13, 2022 9:24 amHi, I have the same with my Kaze 50 discs. At first I didn’t notice it but the rear wheel isn’t exactly centered. It may be 1-2 mm of the drive side. How did you manage to get them centered yet?joeminglin wrote:...Rear wheel dish needs to be pulled 1mm to the drive side….
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See how true the wheel is in the stand first before making changes. You'll prob see the spoke grouping are high on the NDS but a little lower on the DS in the same area. I tried to get my spoke to about 120kfg DS and NDS about 60ish kfg. The NDS are really along for the ride, you just want them equally tensioned.PoorCyclist wrote: ↑Tue May 17, 2022 4:34 amThanks I got thru the first basics link but gives some idea what to dojoeminglin wrote: ↑Mon May 16, 2022 2:58 pmWhat's more important, tension up the low tension spokes or get it trued first? - Depends on the current tension of your spokes. The Feder rims have a spoke tension range of 110kgf front and 120-130kgf rear
Or will these goals converge together assuming the rim is straight? - You can build a straight wheel with the spoke tension being way off...will the wheel last as long, no.
These are good resources:
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... rim-truing
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... easurement
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-he ... -centering
My $20 ztto tension gauge today and I was able to confirm the majority of the spokes being 110kgf on the disc side. A couple spokes were low.
The non-disc side is more wild, most of them seem to be at deflection 9 (73 kgf) but then the next spoke suddenly 5 or 6 (53 kgf).
But gives a baseline numbers for the lower spokes, I should at least bring them up to be closer to their neightbors. Kind of nervous about messing up the dish or getting a radial hop. Still waiting for the thru axle adapter for my stand.
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Are you using an mtb wheel? On road I would want less engagement. Less engagement typically equals less drag and stronger ratchets, teeth etc.
Not really doing stop tehy climbs when road biking, so no need for high engagement.
Your issue migh tlie in that the EXP hub has had issues from the start. Check your serial number against the recall.
Not really doing stop tehy climbs when road biking, so no need for high engagement.
Your issue migh tlie in that the EXP hub has had issues from the start. Check your serial number against the recall.
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Got my 55mm Feder hookless R230 wheels and some 35 Feder hooked rims in yesterday.
35mm rims weight 362.5g each and will be built up with Extralite SPD3 hubs and Berd spokes for an Aethos build. Should be about 1070g finished.
The 55 wheelset is fantastic looking. Both rims I opted for the 70% satin finish and it looks great. The R230 wheelset came in at 1286g!!! I was quoted about 1330g. They ran out of Cx-super spokes which I ordered, so this was with regular Cx-ray spokes too. Imagine a 55mm wheelset that could be about 1250g?
35mm rims weight 362.5g each and will be built up with Extralite SPD3 hubs and Berd spokes for an Aethos build. Should be about 1070g finished.
The 55 wheelset is fantastic looking. Both rims I opted for the 70% satin finish and it looks great. The R230 wheelset came in at 1286g!!! I was quoted about 1330g. They ran out of Cx-super spokes which I ordered, so this was with regular Cx-ray spokes too. Imagine a 55mm wheelset that could be about 1250g?
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My 55mm with R230 came in at 1313g with brass nipples.yourrealdad wrote: ↑Wed May 18, 2022 4:59 pmGot my 55mm Feder hookless R230 wheels and some 35 Feder hooked rims in yesterday.
35mm rims weight 362.5g each and will be built up with Extralite SPD3 hubs and Berd spokes for an Aethos build. Should be about 1070g finished.
The 55 wheelset is fantastic looking. Both rims I opted for the 70% satin finish and it looks great. The R230 wheelset came in at 1286g!!! I was quoted about 1330g. They ran out of Cx-super spokes which I ordered, so this was with regular Cx-ray spokes too. Imagine a 55mm wheelset that could be about 1250g?
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First ride yesterday on the 55mm R230 wheels. Standing sprints led to no more rotor rub than any other wheelset I have used. There was not really any.
Wheels felt stiff climbing and descending. Maybe slightly less so than my Reynolds AR 58/62. Spin up quick.
Had a little crosswind and they handled it well, but again less so than the ARs.
Also people talk about 21 spokes not being enough or industry standard is 24 for disc. Roval (Specialized) run a 21 front and they are the epitome of industry standard so I think we are good.
I weigh 77kg right now.
Wheels felt stiff climbing and descending. Maybe slightly less so than my Reynolds AR 58/62. Spin up quick.
Had a little crosswind and they handled it well, but again less so than the ARs.
Also people talk about 21 spokes not being enough or industry standard is 24 for disc. Roval (Specialized) run a 21 front and they are the epitome of industry standard so I think we are good.
I weigh 77kg right now.
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Curious, is this normal? Will the drag work itself out? Brand new Kaze with DT350.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oe6F0vajQgo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oe6F0vajQgo
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It should decrease with use.openwheelracing wrote: ↑Sat May 21, 2022 11:25 pmCurious, is this normal? Will the drag work itself out? Brand new Kaze with DT350.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oe6F0vajQgo
You can remove a bit of the grease around the ratchets.openwheelracing wrote: ↑Sat May 21, 2022 11:25 pmCurious, is this normal? Will the drag work itself out? Brand new Kaze with DT350.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oe6F0vajQgo
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I don't think this is concerning. It does not mean that freewheel drag is high (necessarily). It means freewheel drag is greater than bottom bracket drag. This could be a good sign of a nice low friction bb setup. What does your static spin test look like?PoorCyclist wrote: ↑Sat May 21, 2022 11:36 pmIt should decrease with use.openwheelracing wrote: ↑Sat May 21, 2022 11:25 pmCurious, is this normal? Will the drag work itself out? Brand new Kaze with DT350.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oe6F0vajQgo