FARSPORTS DISC CARBON WHEELSET Test & Review

[johanalexander]

Today I noticed some white streaks in my rear kaze wheel. They are only on the right side. Upon inspection, they look and feel more like scratches rather than cracks, but hard to tell. I deflated the tyre and squeezed the rim but no movement. What do you guys think?

[Aesch]

Scratches indeed.

[Defy]

I bought Farsports Kaze Disc 45 with Bitex 312 hubs last year and they will not stay in true. The local wheel builder says that the issue is with how they built them. Apparently the spoke pairs should be touching (interlacing) and they are recommending a wheel rebuild.

I have no knowledge about wheel building, but they go WAY out of true after a few months of riding. Does their advice sound correct? Have any of you experienced the same issue and will Farsports cover any of the cost?

[alanyu]

I bought Farsports Kaze Disc 45 with Bitex 312 hubs last year and they will not stay in true. The local wheel builder says that the issue is with how they built them. Apparently the spoke pairs should be touching (interlacing) and they are recommending a wheel rebuild.

I have no knowledge about wheel building, but they go WAY out of true after a few months of riding. Does their advice sound correct? Have any of you experienced the same issue and will Farsports cover any of the cost?

I won't do any interlacing on a straight pull hub if the geometry/flange design allows non-interlacing. If you ride on averaged roads and no crashes, but the wheel gets out of true in a few months, it's possible that Farsports either didn't release the stress after the initial build, or set the tension too low. Better email them your situation.

[openwheelracing]

Same Kaze 45 with same hub. No issues here. I would find a better wheel builder cause the hub is
Clearly designed without interlacing.

[Defy]

I bought Farsports Kaze Disc 45 with Bitex 312 hubs last year and they will not stay in true. The local wheel builder says that the issue is with how they built them. Apparently the spoke pairs should be touching (interlacing) and they are recommending a wheel rebuild.

I have no knowledge about wheel building, but they go WAY out of true after a few months of riding. Does their advice sound correct? Have any of you experienced the same issue and will Farsports cover any of the cost?

I won't do any interlacing on a straight pull hub if the geometry/flange design allows non-interlacing. If you ride on averaged roads and no crashes, but the wheel gets out of true in a few months, it's possible that Farsports either didn't release the stress after the initial build, or set the tension too low. Better email them your situation.

I spoke with the owner of the shop working on my wheels and he said that the lacing pattern from Farsports is correct. He said that both wheels were way out of dish and true when I brought them in and there is no visible damage. The person I spoke to previously who suggested a rebuild is not the one working on my wheels.

They are having trouble getting them into true even with spoke tension variance up to 5%. Does Farsport have a spoke tension chart or procedure for these wheels/hubs?

If any of this terminology is off it is because I have no idea what I am talking about

[gruppetto]

They are having trouble getting them into true even with spoke tension variance up to 5%. Does Farsport have a spoke tension chart or procedure for these wheels/hubs?

The Kaze and I think all of Farsports Rims have a max spoke tension of 120/130 kg. I had to relace a Feeder rim with a RD230 hub, I brought the drive side to 95% of max tension and used the non drive side to center the rim, afterwards I trued the wheel. Worked out quite well.

The charts you sometimes get with wheelsets are just a protocoll of defleciton and spoke tension of the current build and usually not valid as a "tension guide".

[alanyu]

I spoke with the owner of the shop working on my wheels and he said that the lacing pattern from Farsports is correct. He said that both wheels were way out of dish and true when I brought them in and there is no visible damage. The person I spoke to previously who suggested a rebuild is not the one working on my wheels.

They are having trouble getting them into true even with spoke tension variance up to 5%. Does Farsport have a spoke tension chart or procedure for these wheels/hubs?

If any of this terminology is off it is because I have no idea what I am talking about

Based on your situation, I might first lower the tension to 90 kgf on DS to rebuild the wheel, and then slowly push to ideal tension.

Farsports does have a general procedure to build wheels, but not as detailed as what a workshop would do.

[LouisN]

I bought Farsports Kaze Disc 45 with Bitex 312 hubs last year and they will not stay in true. The local wheel builder says that the issue is with how they built them. Apparently the spoke pairs should be touching (interlacing) and they are recommending a wheel rebuild.

I have no knowledge about wheel building, but they go WAY out of true after a few months of riding. Does their advice sound correct? Have any of you experienced the same issue and will Farsports cover any of the cost?

I won't do any interlacing on a straight pull hub if the geometry/flange design allows non-interlacing. If you ride on averaged roads and no crashes, but the wheel gets out of true in a few months, it's possible that Farsports either didn't release the stress after the initial build, or set the tension too low. Better email them your situation.

I spoke with the owner of the shop working on my wheels and he said that the lacing pattern from Farsports is correct. He said that both wheels were way out of dish and true when I brought them in and there is no visible damage. The person I spoke to previously who suggested a rebuild is not the one working on my wheels.

They are having trouble getting them into true even with spoke tension variance up to 5%. Does Farsport have a spoke tension chart or procedure for these wheels/hubs?

If any of this terminology is off it is because I have no idea what I am talking about

It's quite normal for molded rims, there are little variations in the shape of the rims. Depends on many factors, QC is one of them. If the wheel builder only checks the "perfect roundness or trueness" of the rim with the truing stand, he(she) will have a hard time, yet impossible to build it with perfectly even tension.
I built quite a few wheel sets with generic rims the last decade, and I always build with even tension as most important factor. A few flaws in rim finish (shape) that don't affect function is not too dramatic IMO.
I usually build my rims with 110-115 kgf DS rear, and noticed all pre-built generic wheels are built with wayyy lower tension than this. On the other hand, I built a wheel with 130+ kgf DS tension 3 years ago, as my tension meter calibration was off, and the wheel developed cracks in many places (spoke holes) after only 2 years. So max spoke tension is a thing to consider too.
Louis

[LouisN]

Delete double post.
Louis

[StiffWeenies]

All-new 2023 Ventoux line just dropped. No more rim brakes. No more C4, C6, S4 & S6 depths for standard Ventoux non-EVO.





'23 EVO4 (1230g) is a massive improvement over the '21 Ventoux S4 EVO (1295g) and places Farsports on even footing with the Mavic Cosmic Ultimate UST Disc (1225g) and Lightweight Obermayer EVO Schwarz ED (1230g).

[PoorCyclist]

I bought Farsports Kaze Disc 45 with Bitex 312 hubs last year and they will not stay in true. The local wheel builder says that the issue is with how they built them. Apparently the spoke pairs should be touching (interlacing) and they are recommending a wheel rebuild.

I have no knowledge about wheel building, but they go WAY out of true after a few months of riding. Does their advice sound correct? Have any of you experienced the same issue and will Farsports cover any of the cost?

I won't do any interlacing on a straight pull hub if the geometry/flange design allows non-interlacing. If you ride on averaged roads and no crashes, but the wheel gets out of true in a few months, it's possible that Farsports either didn't release the stress after the initial build, or set the tension too low. Better email them your situation.

I spoke with the owner of the shop working on my wheels and he said that the lacing pattern from Farsports is correct. He said that both wheels were way out of dish and true when I brought them in and there is no visible damage. The person I spoke to previously who suggested a rebuild is not the one working on my wheels.

They are having trouble getting them into true even with spoke tension variance up to 5%. Does Farsport have a spoke tension chart or procedure for these wheels/hubs?

If any of this terminology is off it is because I have no idea what I am talking about

My feder has like a handful of spokes that have low tension, like off the charts low tension, it WAS initially true, but not after a while of gravel riding.

I learned to true my wheels and just keep it trued. I'm still learning, but it keeps things in check. Using cheap ztto tension meter.
Farsports is the only wheel set that have poor tension and goes out of true quickly. I have other sets that didn't need any work at all in years and thousands of miles. I went to LB for my next set.

[musiclover]

I may consider a Farsports rear wheel in the near future.

I want around 50mm in depth 32 mm outer width no hole design... Sort of gravel style for commuting.

What is the best rim and hub option? It used to be DT Swiss 350? Has anything changed? Thanks

[yourrealdad]

https://wheelsfar.com/gravel-wheelset-b ... p0060.html

I have these on one of my gravel bikes. Had zero issues and have taking it on quite a bit of singletrack. Mine are the 40mm depth.

It doesn't look like you will get a 32mm external width (only 30mm) with the 50mm depth wheels, but you could ask since the the 30 and 36 do get that wide.

Also have the same set, but with Carbon-ti hubs. Not as battle tested yet, but they have seen a couple brutal sections of road and singel track.

[musiclover]

https://wheelsfar.com/gravel-wheelset-b ... p0060.html

I have these on one of my gravel bikes. Had zero issues and have taking it on quite a bit of singletrack. Mine are the 40mm depth.

It doesn't look like you will get a 32mm external width (only 30mm) with the 50mm depth wheels, but you could ask since the the 30 and 36 do get that wide.

Also have the same set, but with Carbon-ti hubs. Not as battle tested yet, but they have seen a couple brutal sections of road and singel track.

Thanks! It seems that Gravel is their only widish option. Not as wide as WR50, but still...
Why carbon ti and not DT? Carbon ti x is more expensive than DT Swiss 240