No holes vs nipple holes?
Moderator: robbosmans
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I read that you can order LB wheels with the option of no holes on the inner surface, so there is no need for rim tape.
In m y current alloy wheels, I use tape and if/when I have to replace a tyre, I often have to replace the tape too.
So, what are the pro/cons of having a rim without holes?
In m y current alloy wheels, I use tape and if/when I have to replace a tyre, I often have to replace the tape too.
So, what are the pro/cons of having a rim without holes?
They are a bugger to build. Have to thread every nipple in through the valve hole.
Can be done with cotton thread and a vacuum cleaner though.
Can't use concealed nipples (not really an issue anyway).
Rim doesn't need tape (obvuously) and theoretically a stronger rim.
Personally, i'd not bother, as i don't very often damage tape.
Can be done with cotton thread and a vacuum cleaner though.
Can't use concealed nipples (not really an issue anyway).
Rim doesn't need tape (obvuously) and theoretically a stronger rim.
Personally, i'd not bother, as i don't very often damage tape.
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pros - no tape to monkey around with, tubeless set up (depending on the rim) is very easy and robust
Con - breaking a spoke is more of an issue to deal with, especially if it breaks at the nipple, on a deep section rim. On the other hand, I haven't broken any spokes on newer wheels built with brass nipples. If getting wheels built without holes in the tire bed, using alloy nipples is an invitation to problems down the road.
Con - breaking a spoke is more of an issue to deal with, especially if it breaks at the nipple, on a deep section rim. On the other hand, I haven't broken any spokes on newer wheels built with brass nipples. If getting wheels built without holes in the tire bed, using alloy nipples is an invitation to problems down the road.
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How exactly do you damage rim tape? Rims without spoke holes are not worth it. A thread steel insert and a magnet can get the nipples through but since Tubeless setups with tape are hassle free so I really don't get why you would the hassle of building a wheel with no spoke holes. Freight for no gain.
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When I remove a tyre, the tape gets scrunched up, and also the tape gets sticky, so re seating a tyre becomes difficult. I often add another layer of tape then to get it smooth again.
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How come I avoid the above problems? Use tape that goes to the edge of the rim, that how you avoid the tape scrunching up. If the tape is a bit too narrow it will scrunch when the tyre is removed.
Use dilute soapy water to reduce friction.
I have said it begore, tubeless woes are user error yet people instead of upping the skills assume they are doing nothing wrong and reach for a more complicated solution.
Use dilute soapy water to reduce friction.
I have said it begore, tubeless woes are user error yet people instead of upping the skills assume they are doing nothing wrong and reach for a more complicated solution.
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So, what width would you recommend for a rim like the lb56 which is a 30mm outer and a 23 mm inner?bm0p700f wrote:How come I avoid the above problems? Use tape that goes to the edge of the rim, that how you avoid the tape scrunching up. If the tape is a bit too narrow it will scrunch when the tyre is removed.
Use dilute soapy water to reduce friction.
I have said it begore, tubeless woes are user error yet people instead of upping the skills assume they are doing nothing wrong and reach for a more complicated solution.
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As a wheel builder, your perspective makes complete sense. As a wheel buyer, my perspective has made sense, so far. As long as they don't break spokes, it's a cleaner installation with fewer parts.bm0p700f wrote: ↑Mon Mar 11, 2019 7:17 pmHow come I avoid the above problems? Use tape that goes to the edge of the rim, that how you avoid the tape scrunching up. If the tape is a bit too narrow it will scrunch when the tyre is removed.
Use dilute soapy water to reduce friction.
I have said it begore, tubeless woes are user error yet people instead of upping the skills assume they are doing nothing wrong and reach for a more complicated solution.
I've done this. How much of a downside it is depends how good you are at sending nipples in. I actually prefer the process to how a nipple replacement is usually done on a tubeless rim. During the initial build it's of course more work than normal.
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Mavic and Shimano wheels do break spokes sometimes then no spoke holes is a pain. There is no up side to it. Again how come I get clean installs. I never have tape faff unless the rim is not sized right and if that was a no holes rim tape faff would ensue anyway.
Tape width should be 2-5mm wider than the internal width depending on how deep the central channel is.
Tape width should be 2-5mm wider than the internal width depending on how deep the central channel is.
Is it better to have the tape go up the rim wall, or stop at the edge of the rim bed?bm0p700f wrote:Mavic and Shimano wheels do break spokes sometimes then no spoke holes is a pain. There is no up side to it. Again how come I get clean installs. I never have tape faff unless the rim is not sized right and if that was a no holes rim tape faff would ensue anyway.
Tape width should be 2-5mm wider than the internal width depending on how deep the central channel is.
A con of holes is rim explosion (just got one) due to tape leaking air into the rim, rim getting pressurized air and the rim goes pop.
Enve even has a supposedly valve pressure relief system that sounds good in practice but can also get filled with the tubeless liquid.
Enve even has a supposedly valve pressure relief system that sounds good in practice but can also get filled with the tubeless liquid.
Selecting that specific wheels, it means you care about aerodynamic.deepakvrao wrote: ↑Tue Mar 12, 2019 1:04 amSo, what width would you recommend for a rim like the lb56 which is a 30mm outer and a 23 mm inner?bm0p700f wrote:How come I avoid the above problems? Use tape that goes to the edge of the rim, that how you avoid the tape scrunching up. If the tape is a bit too narrow it will scrunch when the tyre is removed.
Use dilute soapy water to reduce friction.
I have said it begore, tubeless woes are user error yet people instead of upping the skills assume they are doing nothing wrong and reach for a more complicated solution.
No spoke holes means you cannot use internal nipple. Internal nipple is more aero according to Mavic, Hambini and some other manufactureres, while it doesn't make any difference in aero according to Specialized. Let assume it make a little difference that almost immeasurable then.
Drilling holes and close it with tape will also actually reduce weight a bit as the good tubeless tape weight less than carbon that got drilled out.
Between no rim tape wheelset for stronger rim bed versus lighter and more aero wheelset. Your call, but I select internal nipples.
Ask LB for rim with drain hole. It's not there by default but you can request for it. It help draining water out of the rim and also release pressure if the tape is leaking.pmprego wrote: ↑Mon Sep 07, 2020 8:07 pmA con of holes is rim explosion (just got one) due to tape leaking air into the rim, rim getting pressurized air and the rim goes pop.
Enve even has a supposedly valve pressure relief system that sounds good in practice but can also get filled with the tubeless liquid.
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