Wheel choice conundrum

Everything about building wheels, glueing tubs, etc.
bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Shop built wheels are not always more expensive. Given this is a disc brake wheelset rims like the kinlin XR series are excellent. The Easton R90SL is good too. The pacenti Forza is a good rim too but tyre fitting can be a bit tight. The thing is the kinlin xr26T offers what the other two rims do but for less cash. 19mm internal width is about tight for road tubeless tyres.

DT Swiss disc brake hubs are fine. My only gripe is the rear DS bearing is trapped behind that ring nutm not a big deal though. Hope hubs are good.

I use my own hubs of course but

by Weenie


alcatraz
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by alcatraz

NickJHP's wheels seem really good for the OP. I'd stick with a carbon rim over alloy because it's disc brake.
NickJHP wrote:
Tue Feb 05, 2019 8:20 pm
Is the pictured Schwalbe Pro One installed tubeless? How's the tire/rim interface? Any issues to mount or inflate?

Thx /a

Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

jekyll man wrote:
Tue Feb 05, 2019 10:53 pm
Bontrager paradigm comp tlr?
Reasonable weight and price.
19.5mm internal width.

Trek build quality, and the non disc versions i've got, are a great set of hoops, and the easiest tubeless set up i've used.

It's only the brand snobs that stop them getting the attention they deserve.
I am sure they are rock solid - but 1800 grams. So pass. There is an elite verion that I assume is lighter, but mo money.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

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mattyNor
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by mattyNor

I'd build any decent quality alu rim to some Shimano hubs and can it a day. Service the hubs once a year and that's about it.

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Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

Mr.Gib wrote:
Tue Feb 05, 2019 9:42 pm
Campy would be an option but they are too narrow.
Just looking at Fulcrum Racing Zero Disc. And they are 19mm internal. I love the idea of no rim tape. Problem is that damn rim profile. My Shamal Ultras are great wheels but on a bike that will need to be cleaned after most rides - that is a lot of time spent using your fingernail and a rag to clean the edges of those little raised sections around each spoke. 1590 grams claimed. The carbon version is a serious wheel for lots more cash.

The other thing about the Racing Zero's is that I doubt there is anything stiffer. I face a lot of short steep climbs and will thrash out of the saddle if needed. Stiff works for me.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

NickJHP
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by NickJHP

Mr.Gib wrote:
Tue Feb 05, 2019 9:42 pm
@NickJHP I have noticed your wheels in other posts - very nice. The LighBicycle website doesn't show hope hubs with a 12 mm though axle option for the front. I guess I can place an order through some sort of direct communication?
As I was building the wheels myself, I only bought the rims from LightBicycle. The hubs and spokes I bought from r2-bike.

NickJHP
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by NickJHP

alcatraz wrote:
Wed Feb 06, 2019 1:39 am
NickJHP's wheels seem really good for the OP. I'd stick with a carbon rim over alloy because it's disc brake.

Is the pictured Schwalbe Pro One installed tubeless? How's the tire/rim interface? Any issues to mount or inflate?

Thx /a
No, those Schwalbe tyres are with tubes. I already had the tyres sitting around and installed them to start with. For the last few months I've had Compass Bon Jon Pass Extralight tubeless installed on the wheels - I'm using them in an Open U.P.P.E.R. frame that has plenty of room for such tyres. I've had no problem with any tyre I've used on the rims in mounting or removing or having them run dead true.

Mounting is just a matter of starting opposite the valve and ensuring that the bead is sitting down in the central well until you get the last bit of the bead on near the valve. Reverse that for removal - push the bead off the retention hump into the central well and start removal of the bead next to the valve. Initial inflation of tubeless I do with my track pump - if that doesn't work then I have an AirShot that has always done the trick. Once the beads have popped over the retention hump on the rim bed, you can deflate to add sealant and re-inflate with any old pump.

Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

NickJHP wrote:
Wed Feb 06, 2019 5:25 am
Mr.Gib wrote:
Tue Feb 05, 2019 9:42 pm
@NickJHP I have noticed your wheels in other posts - very nice. The LighBicycle website doesn't show hope hubs with a 12 mm though axle option for the front. I guess I can place an order through some sort of direct communication?
As I was building the wheels myself, I only bought the rims from LightBicycle. The hubs and spokes I bought from r2-bike.
Maybe it's time to start building my own wheels - I do everything else. Just had this idea that it was best left to professionals.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

Nefarious86
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by Nefarious86

Roval SLX24 disc?

20mm internal, 1515g and all DT components?
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NickJHP
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by NickJHP

Mr.Gib wrote:
Wed Feb 06, 2019 5:55 am
Maybe it's time to start building my own wheels - I do everything else. Just had this idea that it was best left to professionals.
It's not difficult, but a set of fairly low spoke count lightweight wheels is probably not the best place to start - I've been building wheels, for myself and friends, for more than 40 years. If you want to get into wheelbuilding, it would be better to start with something like a pair of 32- or 36-spoke touring/commuting wheels, where the components will be cheaper and any errors made on an initial wheel build are less likely to cause problems.

morrisond
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by morrisond

Mr.Gib wrote:
Wed Feb 06, 2019 2:36 am
Mr.Gib wrote:
Tue Feb 05, 2019 9:42 pm
Campy would be an option but they are too narrow.
Just looking at Fulcrum Racing Zero Disc. And they are 19mm internal. I love the idea of no rim tape. Problem is that damn rim profile. My Shamal Ultras are great wheels but on a bike that will need to be cleaned after most rides - that is a lot of time spent using your fingernail and a rag to clean the edges of those little raised sections around each spoke. 1590 grams claimed. The carbon version is a serious wheel for lots more cash.

The other thing about the Racing Zero's is that I doubt there is anything stiffer. I face a lot of short steep climbs and will thrash out of the saddle if needed. Stiff works for me.
Look at Fulcrum Racing 3's then 19c - still Cup and Cone - a lot easier to clean rims - Steel vs Aluminum spokes so more aero (RIM more Aero too). Maybe a tad less stiff than Aluminum spoke but still 2:1. By all reports Campy/Fulcrum with Steel Spokes and 2:1 are still quite good.

I'm like you - Have Racing Zero's and the spoke system is incredible for stiffness on accelaration - nothing else feels better (and I've tried everything).

I also have Shamal Ultra Disc Wheels as well - very stiff but they are only 17c and hard to clean.

Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

Fulcrum Racing 3...unfortunately they also have some exotic milling on the rim so the cleaning job would be similar to the Zero's. For the weight difference I'd rather splurge for the Zero if is going to be a Campy (Fulcrum) product. As to the question of aero, while I'll take every advantage I can get, the bike will have fenders with flap extensions to the ground which will probably add a 1000 times the amount of drag as the difference between the most and least aero wheels available.

The cleaning issue is a moderate concern. All these "peened" surface alloy rims (with or without milling) are a pain to clean. A wipe down won't do the job, you need to scrub a bit. Best would be high gloss carbon. Looking again at LightBicycle. Would end up with lower weight, just nowhere near as robust as the Fulcrum option.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

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otoman
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by otoman

Nefarious86 wrote:Roval SLX24 disc?

20mm internal, 1515g and all DT components?
I was scrolling to the bottom to recommend this exact wheelset.

I have used for a winter running 28mm Schalbe Pro Ones. They are just flawless and a raging bargain. I can’t think of much else to say. I’d buy them again.
Age and treachery shall overcome youth and skill

Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

otoman wrote:
Thu Feb 07, 2019 1:21 am
Nefarious86 wrote:Roval SLX24 disc?

20mm internal, 1515g and all DT components?
I was scrolling to the bottom to recommend this exact wheelset.

I have used for a winter running 28mm Schalbe Pro Ones. They are just flawless and a raging bargain. I can’t think of much else to say. I’d buy them again.
Yeah this definitely got my attention. Under consideration.

Will I be able to get the decals off? And to they have that little ridge that keeps the bead in place when the tire loses pressure?
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

Nefarious86
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by Nefarious86

I'm pretty sure a healthy dose of acetone will sort the logos, and not sure on the lip, they are tubeless ready tho.
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by Weenie


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