New bike build; new wheels...?

[sfo423]

I am building an F10 disc and am semi-stumpled on what wheels to use.

Requirements:
25mm tire
Clincher
Might as well go tubeless; I don't see why not.
40mm-50mm
Live in hilly area and want one 'do it all' wheelset. It needs to climb well too.
<$2k USD

I've been looking at these so far:
Specialized Roval CLX 50 Disc Wheelset 
FSE EVO 45CTD Clincher Tubeless Road Disc w/DT240's (also avaiilable 55mm for +10g)
Reynolds AR41x Carbon Disc Wheelset
303 Firecrest Carbon Clincher Tubeless Disc-brake
FairWheel also does the FSE w/Carbon-ti hubs
Enve ses 3.4 w/I9 hubs - not tubeless though

I am thinking the CLX will not doable (but I rode them once and really liked them) unless I find a lightly used set. The 303's are nice, but I think over - priced.

Anyone been on the FSE's? I did see a thread here and a feew reviews on the web. They look nice.

Any other options you would suggest I look at? TIA!

[TonyM]

I went with the DT Swiss ARC 1100 Dicut 48DB for my F10 disk.
Love them. Swiss quality, aero and ceramic bearings.

[bm0p700f]

I would not put tubeless tyres on DT Swiss rims. The rim dies not retain the tyre well at all and it can unseat if you loose pressure. Proper tubeless compatibility mean the rim will retain the tyre allowing you to plug the big hole inflate and carry on. I had a thumb sized hole in the sidewall before new year. Plugged it and inflated to 40 psi. It got me to work the next day too. The tyre did not unseat. If it had I would have been stuck as I did not have a tube in me. If your tyres unseat you still have to carry tubes and at that point you might as well stick to tubed tyres.

[ryanw]

I've run a tubeless setup on both my DT Swiss RP23s and PR1400s without a single issue over 3 years with all different brands of tubeless (ready) tyres.

Appreciate tyres / wheels are your bag, but maybe you've just had a bad experience? I would fully recommend DT Swiss wheels for a tubeless setup.

[alcatraz]

I've run a tubeless setup on both my DT Swiss RP23s and PR1400s without a single issue over 3 years with all different brands of tubeless (ready) tyres.

Appreciate tyres / wheels are your bag, but maybe you've just had a bad experience? I would fully recommend DT Swiss wheels for a tubeless setup.

Did your tires ever go completely flat? If so, were they easy to pump back up again?

[ryanw]

I have deflated them completely and the beads have remain seated. This is with tubeless ready tyres as well as fully tubeless.

The only issue I've had was resolved by sticking a new layer of rim tape on.

[moyboy]

mcfk 35 / 45 wheelset build? from Fairwheel? been happy with mine.

[sfo423]

Disapointed to hear about running DT Swiss tubeless.

My short list:

DT Swiss ERC 1100 DICUT 47  (on paper they look like a better all-arounder wheel than the DT Swiss ARC 1100 Dicut 48DB)
NSW 303 tubeless (if I can get right price)
45mm FSE mated to carbon ti or DT 240 hubs)

Also I recall reading but I can't find a thread here on the 303 NSW vs. the 303 firecrest and the premium $ for nsw not worth it. If so, I'd probably look at the firecrest but it looks heavy.

[TonyM]

I have also the DT Swiss ERC 1100 Dicut 47 DB on my rain bike.
Very good but a little different than the ARC. The rim width is larger so that they are more for 25mm or 28mm. And definitely stronger if you have potholes.

[sfo423]

What is big difference bwtween the ARC and the ERC? It looked like the ARC was more for aero and the ERC was more all-arounder? The weight is pretty close to equal.

I have also the DT Swiss ERC 1100 Dicut 47 DB on my rain bike.
Very good but a little different than the ARC. The rim width is larger so that they are more for 25mm or 28mm. And definitely stronger if you have potholes.

[TonyM]

The ERC have a wider rim, so it is good if you have 28mm. You can use them as 25/25 but also as 28/28.
The ARC are more for the aero, so 23/25 or 25/25.

And the ERC ate stronger in terms of impacts like potholes.
DT says something like jumping up to 25 cm (please check) is ok. ARC not.

On my F10 disk, aero, I have the ARC 1100 dicut. And 23/25mm tires.
On my BLC RM02, winter and rain bike, I have the ERC 1100 dicut. And 25/25 tires (and if necessary then 28/28 if it is really a very bad winter with lots of potholes etc...)

[bm0p700f]

If the tyre is retained on DT rim that good but that because it is tight fit. Sealant will glue the tyre in place. However it can still unseat not guaranteed though when pushing a plug into the sidewall to fill a hole.

DT rims lack the bump next to the channel which some tubeless rims haven those rims retain a tyre much more strongly. Your car rims are like this ertro standards mandate it and it why a car tyre does not unseat if you flat.

Once again my comments are being seen as black and white which is not what I meant. I am commenting on best practice some rim manufacturers do it so why can't all.

I never said you can't run a DT rim with a tubeless tyre successfully or that the tyre is guaranteed to unseated only that for it not to unseat you are entirely relying on friction and the gluing effect in time of the sealant. That for me is not good enough. If I can't ride at setup flat or push a plug the though a small side wall hole without the tyre unsteating to me it not properly tubeless and I have to carry a spare tube. That's were j am coming from. My car tubeless tyres are to this standard. I want bicycle tubeless tech to be the same way.

[AJS914]

Any other options you would suggest I look at? TIA!

I'd get a set of Farsports wheels for under $700 (with DT Swiss 350 hubs). They sell higher end hubs if you need more bling and lighter weight.

[bm0p700f]

Campagnolo 2 way fit wheels are pretty good. Bora for example.

Mavic UST is pretty good as are shimano wheels.

Companies like farsport don't do a bad job either. My own rims come from a Chinese manufacturer. Some them do a very good job.

Or talk to a wheelbuilder you trust and trust them.

[sfo423]

I've narrowed it down to the;

ARC 1100 Dicut 48
FSE 45mm/Carbon-ti hub

They both come in ~1500g, both for 25mm tire, the FSE is 'true' tubeless, while the DT is more conversion kit. My worry is the ARC may not be the 'all arounder' wheel I want.

I could always drop the rim height down to 35mm and go for FSE 35mm or the PRC 1100 Dicut 35. But, I don't think 35's are asthetically correct on a 59.5 size bike.