servicing Bitex RAF10

[JoO]

I have a Bitex RAF10 front hub that I would like to sevice.
This design uses 4 tiny 688 bearing - 2 on each side - and a semi axle with internal threads to screw in the end caps.

Unlike the novatec extra light hubs there is nothing in the semi axle to push against.
With novatec I I could insert an Y shape hex key and tap it with a rubber hammer.

A blind puller would also not work I believe because after expanding the lip of the tool needs needs to catch behind the the inner race of the bearing. That would not work because the semi-axle would prevent it.

Does anyone have a suggestion for the appropriate technique?

[Marin]

Push the semi axle to the side and hammer out the bearings with a drift pin. I did it a few days ago.

[alcatraz]

I think my hub is the same. This is what I do.

I just unscrew the opposite side end cap a few turns and start knocking it gently to start moving the bearings.

688 don't need much to move so you don't need to worry about the threads. Only if they are screwed in by less than 2 turns I'd worry. As long as you got the bearings started moving you can use less threads on the endcap.

If they are stubborn you can heat up the hub with a hairdryer a bit. The aluminum hub shell expands more than the steel outer bearing race.

It's good to get both sides started a little bit before knocking one side out completely. Then with the bearings out on one side you now have space to screw back the end cap but not completely and then give it a few taps to get the last ones out.

To press in the new bearings I use the end caps with one bearing on each side and then I put the second and continue to tighten the end caps. It's almost a tool-less job.

I can't speak for all hubs though. Have some common sense that it could be different. Mine has 4x688 bearings.

/a

[JoO]

Thanks. I will try that method.

[JoO]

I think my hub is the same. This is what I do.

I just unscrew the opposite side end cap a few turns and start knocking it gently to start moving the bearings.

688 don't need much to move so you don't need to worry about the threads. Only if they are screwed in by less than 2 turns I'd worry. As long as you got the bearings started moving you can use less threads on the endcap.

If they are stubborn you can heat up the hub with a hairdryer a bit. The aluminum hub shell expands more than the steel outer bearing race.

It's good to get both sides started a little bit before knocking one side out completely. Then with the bearings out on one side you now have space to screw back the end cap but not completely and then give it a few taps to get the last ones out.

To press in the new bearings I use the end caps with one bearing on each side and then I put the second and continue to tighten the end caps. It's almost a tool-less job.

I can't speak for all hubs though. Have some common sense that it could be different. Mine has 4x688 bearings.

/a

I eventually made some time to change the bearings.
Your method worked like a charm.
Tx.