New wheels
Moderator: robbosmans
We use 18mm internal rims - don't even know what the external is. But Since the side wall on carbon rims have to be very thick compared to Al it means the side walls are very flush with a 25mm wide tire. nice and aero and nice tire volume for rolling resistance and grip/comfort. 18mm still works for a 23mm tire, hence we didn't go wider even though more and more people are going to 25mm tires.
I don't know why Campy and Mavic have bough out new rims and still stayed with only slightly wider rims. Mavic's marketing department may have been overly concerned about the weight data they would have to publish - but seriously the benefits of wider rims only come with a few grams of added carbon.
I don't know why Campy and Mavic have bough out new rims and still stayed with only slightly wider rims. Mavic's marketing department may have been overly concerned about the weight data they would have to publish - but seriously the benefits of wider rims only come with a few grams of added carbon.
Technical Director at www.TUFFcycle.com
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Cartidge bearings on hubs can be changed. On some hubs it is easier to than others. It is easiest on hubs with big bearings as the bearing seats distort less easily. Also it is easiest on hubs with a free axle design as you can extract the bearings and press them in both at the same time with the wheels manufacyturing press. Hubs with a captive bearing require an over axle kit but on many front hubs the axle and bearings are too small small meaning you end up using a rubber mallet and small sockets which is not ideal, unless you have the Wheels manufacturing small bearing press.
For campag hubs using the CULT bearing the HB-HY100 service kit has evrything you need to renew the hub to as new condtion (not the freehub though). HB-HY022, HB-HY123, HB-HY024 anf HB-RE021. thats for the rear hub. For the front Bora and shamal wheels that are currently made 14mm axle then HB-BO100 (cult) and HB-SH100 (USB) are the kits need for service. So in that sense if your buying off the shelf wheels, the the Campagnolo wheels are probably the best. Miche desreve consideration as there hub (SWR or Supertype) are very reliable.
For campag hubs using the CULT bearing the HB-HY100 service kit has evrything you need to renew the hub to as new condtion (not the freehub though). HB-HY022, HB-HY123, HB-HY024 anf HB-RE021. thats for the rear hub. For the front Bora and shamal wheels that are currently made 14mm axle then HB-BO100 (cult) and HB-SH100 (USB) are the kits need for service. So in that sense if your buying off the shelf wheels, the the Campagnolo wheels are probably the best. Miche desreve consideration as there hub (SWR or Supertype) are very reliable.
Large bearings also align better which means smoother rolling and better durability. Not to mention the higher load capacity of larger bearings. The 9mm axles and tiny bearings on so many cheap "light weight hubs" are so flexable that what you gain in saving a few grams is likely lost due to poor alignment.
A lot of popular hubs use large bearings:
Chris King use 17mm axles front and rear
DT uses 17mm axles on the front and 15mm on the rear
Carbon Ti even uses 17mm axles front and rear
Extralite also use 17mm axles front and rear
It is very popular with the high end hubs to use 6803s in the front, and mix in a 6903 in the rear on the DS with 3 6803s. CK of course make their own custom bearings so that is different.
We had been offering basic taiwan hubs as our low cost hubs, but when we went to offering our new hubs with the same bearing setup as above we found a HUGE improvement in rolling resistance. Weight is still excellent remaining less than DT240s which is probably the most popular after market hub out there.
I'm a big guy and axle stiffness may not be a big deal to a smaller guy.
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That’s another reason for cup and cone being better. Larger balls are possible in the same aperture.
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I am back again after fiding some other details.
Well a good wheel is bora one that is 50mm deep with 17c as some guys said here.thanx for the details guys.
At the same money a friend of mine gives me the tune SCHWARZBRENNER 45 CLINCHER with 1000km.no damage.like new. Tune have 18c inner width....
I am in a big dilemma cause the first is stiff wheel with cup and cone but the tune a little less stiff from bora(small difference) with no cup and cone but with 1320gr.
Help me guys.give me your lights
Well a good wheel is bora one that is 50mm deep with 17c as some guys said here.thanx for the details guys.
At the same money a friend of mine gives me the tune SCHWARZBRENNER 45 CLINCHER with 1000km.no damage.like new. Tune have 18c inner width....
I am in a big dilemma cause the first is stiff wheel with cup and cone but the tune a little less stiff from bora(small difference) with no cup and cone but with 1320gr.
Help me guys.give me your lights
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how do you know the bora is stiffer? any from what I know about tune hubs I would not even hesitate to say the Bora are likely to be a better buy.
Ypu may also want to ask a good wheel builder. the are many around Europe.
Ypu may also want to ask a good wheel builder. the are many around Europe.
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They aren’t happy if they get wet.Cycleman wrote:Ι know that from reviews.only that.
What you know about tune hubs?
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Also i read about creaking problems about tune hubs.
Now i am scarry about buying them.
It seems bora better choice...but i still have tune in my head cause 1320gr is a good advantage.
Maybe tune in 2018 fix some problems.before years as i read in forums many owners had problem.i don't know about the new ones.if somebody have an experience just tell me.
Now i am scarry about buying them.
It seems bora better choice...but i still have tune in my head cause 1320gr is a good advantage.
Maybe tune in 2018 fix some problems.before years as i read in forums many owners had problem.i don't know about the new ones.if somebody have an experience just tell me.
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