I've talked with different wheelbuilders and read a lot of posts by now, and it seems that no one really has a clear favorite to which hub to use. I was pretty keen on a set of WI T11 or Industry Nine hubs, as I've read and heard great things about these hubs, but then some wheelbuilders don't really like them compared to others. So what should one choose if every option is open?
The wheels will be some carbon clinchers. Haven't really decided on which rim, but the Enve 5.6 are in play. 20/24 configuration. Need something stiff, as I'm 80-82 kgs on good days, and have a good sprint power.
Choosing between hubs
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Kermithimself
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It really comes down to personal preference. But the top hubs I would choose between are these four.
1) Chris King R45
2) DT240
3) WI T11
4) Shimano Dura Ace
I own wheelsets with all four of them, and it's hard to say which one I prefer. There are advantages with all of them.
CK is probably the most raceworthy one. Expensive hub and expensive spares (especially when in EU) but very well designed, good bearings, that come from CK's own production. Freehub body is soft aluminum though. If you have problems with notching freehub bodies, then you'll have that problem with this hub as well. Rolls and sounds like a dream.
DT240 is a very good all round hub. Reasonably priced, easy to source spares, easy to service, but has the same problem with soft aluminum freehub body. There is a steel freehub body available though which solves the problem. I bought a couple weeks ago and so far no notching
This hub is the safe bet. but not very sexy like CK or WI.
WI T11 is perfect IMHO. Good well designed hub. Very durable, titanium freehub body in order to prevent notching. Standard easy to source bearings. A little bit heavier than the first two though. And it is pretty as hell.
Dura Ace. All Dura Ace products are very good. Titanium freebub body, so no notching problems. Ball bearings which are good, but cause problems if not regularly serviced.
1) Chris King R45
2) DT240
3) WI T11
4) Shimano Dura Ace
I own wheelsets with all four of them, and it's hard to say which one I prefer. There are advantages with all of them.
CK is probably the most raceworthy one. Expensive hub and expensive spares (especially when in EU) but very well designed, good bearings, that come from CK's own production. Freehub body is soft aluminum though. If you have problems with notching freehub bodies, then you'll have that problem with this hub as well. Rolls and sounds like a dream.
DT240 is a very good all round hub. Reasonably priced, easy to source spares, easy to service, but has the same problem with soft aluminum freehub body. There is a steel freehub body available though which solves the problem. I bought a couple weeks ago and so far no notching
This hub is the safe bet. but not very sexy like CK or WI.
WI T11 is perfect IMHO. Good well designed hub. Very durable, titanium freehub body in order to prevent notching. Standard easy to source bearings. A little bit heavier than the first two though. And it is pretty as hell.
Dura Ace. All Dura Ace products are very good. Titanium freebub body, so no notching problems. Ball bearings which are good, but cause problems if not regularly serviced.
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bm0p700f
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The issue with DT Swiss road hubs is the poor nds flange to centre distance as that compromises lateral stiffness. The stupid ring nut is the other problem. That has to come out to change the bearings in the rear. Simply a silly design and makes them shop serviceable for most.
White industries hubs build into stiffer wheels but the enduro bearings are the let down for me. If you change those when the time comes for something decent then they become a brilliant hub.
Shimano dura ace are the best of the ones multebear has listed but no 20h front so useless for enve rims.
While most here see me as heretic, the problem for all the above hubs is the miche Primato is cheap and stupidly reliable. None of the above show longer Bearing life except the CK hubs but they are too expensive over here to be worth buying.
For me it's miche Primato hubs or the carbon ti. Both are user serviceable, both are reliable. One 200g lighter than the other. However you do have do the lockrings rtf. Multebear probably does not so he gets notching issues.
The problem with buying parts with stellar reputations is you overlook other parts which might be better.
White industries hubs build into stiffer wheels but the enduro bearings are the let down for me. If you change those when the time comes for something decent then they become a brilliant hub.
Shimano dura ace are the best of the ones multebear has listed but no 20h front so useless for enve rims.
While most here see me as heretic, the problem for all the above hubs is the miche Primato is cheap and stupidly reliable. None of the above show longer Bearing life except the CK hubs but they are too expensive over here to be worth buying.
For me it's miche Primato hubs or the carbon ti. Both are user serviceable, both are reliable. One 200g lighter than the other. However you do have do the lockrings rtf. Multebear probably does not so he gets notching issues.
The problem with buying parts with stellar reputations is you overlook other parts which might be better.
I agree. Miche Primato hubs are very good. Especially for bad weather, they just keep going for miles and miles. But as mentioned elsewhere, for those who have problems with notching, the freehub body is made out of very soft aluminum. So @kermithimself if you have problems with notching and don't own a torque wrench (I don't, and I don't think it will solve the problem either) for tightening the cassette lockring, you might get problems with notching. I have a wheelset with Miche Primato hubs as well. For me it is useless because of the notching issue. Mounting and unmounting cassettes is just not possible ATM:
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bm0p700f
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No carbon Ti now in 24/28. Yes more spokes does solve the the 240's problem but this is weight weenie. The ultimate hub surely does not need have this compromise.
Torquing the lock rings properly does solve notching issues. Miche test this sort of thing. I have seen there basement. It's a torture chamber for bike bits.
Notching is really a shimano cassette problem. I get it a bit on a novatec freehub with a shimano cassette fitted but it does not happen on my Miche freehubs with a Miche cassette for shimano. I don't know why shimano cassettes do this but they do.
So file those burrs off, get a Miche cassette and do up the lock ring properly and all should be well. Change the freehub if it's really bad. Those hubs are usable.
Sorry this is weight weenie get an sram red cassette not Miche. I have one of those on a carbon Ti hub and no notching. That wheelset gets used for hill climb tt's.
Torquing the lock rings properly does solve notching issues. Miche test this sort of thing. I have seen there basement. It's a torture chamber for bike bits.
Notching is really a shimano cassette problem. I get it a bit on a novatec freehub with a shimano cassette fitted but it does not happen on my Miche freehubs with a Miche cassette for shimano. I don't know why shimano cassettes do this but they do.
So file those burrs off, get a Miche cassette and do up the lock ring properly and all should be well. Change the freehub if it's really bad. Those hubs are usable.
Sorry this is weight weenie get an sram red cassette not Miche. I have one of those on a carbon Ti hub and no notching. That wheelset gets used for hill climb tt's.
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BdaGhisallo
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I have some FAG and NTN bearings inbound from Hambini for my White T11 hubs. I am coming around to the view that this might be the optimal hub solution.
XG1190 to solve notching problem and ww as well?
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Can't agree more with the comments on DT240. Very easy to service but the freehub body notching just made me crazy. Love the link that Multebear posted. Wish I still had the wheels to test that freehub body.
Trying CK hubs on my new wheels but see that it's more of the same based on what I've read here.
Trying CK hubs on my new wheels but see that it's more of the same based on what I've read here.
Boyd 85 hubs must be the easiest to service www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4yq9RkHFrE
www.boydcycling.com/site-map/85-road-hubs
www.boydcycling.com/site-map/85-road-hubs
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My best hubs by far have been Shimano, both Dura Ace 9000 and older Ultegra 6700.
Besides the drilling options, and a few extra grams, these hubs have all the qualities.
I would build a 24F/24R Enve 5/6 wheelset, with standard CX on the DS, CX rays for the rest.
Louis
Besides the drilling options, and a few extra grams, these hubs have all the qualities.
I would build a 24F/24R Enve 5/6 wheelset, with standard CX on the DS, CX rays for the rest.
Louis
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Shimano is generally my "go to" choice for hubs as well.
With some very minimal tweaking when new (better grease fill) and semi regular servicing/cleaning/care they'll last 50000 miles or more. Even on a winter bike.
Even the cheaper ones are extremely durable (with that semi regular looking after)
And they roll "better" than the vast majority of the competiton.
With some very minimal tweaking when new (better grease fill) and semi regular servicing/cleaning/care they'll last 50000 miles or more. Even on a winter bike.
Even the cheaper ones are extremely durable (with that semi regular looking after)
And they roll "better" than the vast majority of the competiton.
