Hello,
I weight about 70-75k and have built 3 sets of wheels with this hubs and sapim cx-ray spokes. I do change the bearings for SKF or something better then what they bring. I have yet have any of the wheels fail.
So I was woundering if there is something lighter and better I can use to build my wheels.
Thanks.
Something cheaper/lighter than Novatec A291SB-SL F582SB-SL?
Moderator: robbosmans
Lighter and better, of course.
But in your title you mention cheaper...these hubs are already pretty cheap...
I wouldn't recommend going cheaper...
The rear F482SB-SL is the one we usually see paired with the A291SB-SL. Was that a typo ?
Louis
But in your title you mention cheaper...these hubs are already pretty cheap...
I wouldn't recommend going cheaper...
The rear F482SB-SL is the one we usually see paired with the A291SB-SL. Was that a typo ?
Louis
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Front hub has a good weight of 60gr. You can basically only lower that with extalite to 44-48gr. Sure there are others lower but by an insignificant amount.
The rear hub however isn't too hard to beat at 228gr.
Carbon-ti is 160gr. Extralite 128gr. I run taiwanese hubs and they are 185gr in the rear (competitor to novatec/bitex).
For weight the thing that will be limiting is the inner wheel bearing. If the hub runs the same bearings everywhere it's not a good design. You need a beefier inner wheel bearing, so if you're not 50kg then try to find that. Sure if you run good steel bearings (like skf) you can get away with it but you'd have to replace the inner one yearly. You'd also chew up an alloy axle if the bearing dimensions are small. (Not much area to take up that pressure, i use loctite 641 retaining compound to take up the play)
As for saving weight on spokes you can do that with a 2:1 lacing pattern. You can go down in spoke weight if you have such a hub.
For my 65kg I'm tempted to buy one of these taiwanese 24h 2:1 hubs that weighs ~180gr and lace it with sapim super-cx or cnspoke mac aero 360 or pillar megalite ss spokes (these are all spokes under 4gr).
Should still be a stiff enough wheel. Because I'm not afraid to service my hubs and I'm not very heavy I can get away with using smaller asian bearing hubs.
Weight plays a big part in designing a wheelset.
The rear hub however isn't too hard to beat at 228gr.
Carbon-ti is 160gr. Extralite 128gr. I run taiwanese hubs and they are 185gr in the rear (competitor to novatec/bitex).
For weight the thing that will be limiting is the inner wheel bearing. If the hub runs the same bearings everywhere it's not a good design. You need a beefier inner wheel bearing, so if you're not 50kg then try to find that. Sure if you run good steel bearings (like skf) you can get away with it but you'd have to replace the inner one yearly. You'd also chew up an alloy axle if the bearing dimensions are small. (Not much area to take up that pressure, i use loctite 641 retaining compound to take up the play)
As for saving weight on spokes you can do that with a 2:1 lacing pattern. You can go down in spoke weight if you have such a hub.
For my 65kg I'm tempted to buy one of these taiwanese 24h 2:1 hubs that weighs ~180gr and lace it with sapim super-cx or cnspoke mac aero 360 or pillar megalite ss spokes (these are all spokes under 4gr).
Should still be a stiff enough wheel. Because I'm not afraid to service my hubs and I'm not very heavy I can get away with using smaller asian bearing hubs.
Weight plays a big part in designing a wheelset.
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bm0p700f
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The f582 is the campagnolo bodied hub. The D's bearing rear is a size you can't get normally except for enduring or cheap Chinese bearings (1527 i think).
These hubs have short bearing life. I have tried skf bearings in the novatec hubs and it made no difference. There seem to be yearly bearing changes regardless.
If your going to save weight and retain reliablity then carbon Ti or extralite. DT swiss 240 will save 13g at the rear too. I would not bother with the 185g bitex hubs. The rear bearings are even smaller.
These hubs have short bearing life. I have tried skf bearings in the novatec hubs and it made no difference. There seem to be yearly bearing changes regardless.
If your going to save weight and retain reliablity then carbon Ti or extralite. DT swiss 240 will save 13g at the rear too. I would not bother with the 185g bitex hubs. The rear bearings are even smaller.
They're my default go-to hub. I had better luck than Malcolm with the bearings, and I don't destroy freehubs all the time like with Bitex (killed 3, damaged 2).
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bm0p700f
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15267 on that hub and they are 228g I think.
That size is the problem. I bought a few of theses hubs from novatec once with ezo bearings. Several showed bearing failures after a few rides. I have never bought that particular model again.
That size is the problem. I bought a few of theses hubs from novatec once with ezo bearings. Several showed bearing failures after a few rides. I have never bought that particular model again.
Same here.
I never had any problems with the F482SB I built (around 15 iish) . I Only built two SL versions yet though.
True I had to change the hubshell bearings on the wheels I use in cyclocross but it was expected, and pretty easy too.
The non SL version uses only the standard 6802 (1) and 6902 (2) bearings. So maybe not worth the 20g saved on the SL model...
Louis
I noticed when servicing my hub that the inner bearing is crucial. Mine is even smaller than a 15267 (15x26x7). It's a 6802. That's tiny. (15x24x5)
I have gotten it to work though so my guess is you can do it too with a 15267 if you aren't heavier than 75-80kg.
You need to put retaining compound on the inner and outer bearing race of this inner wheel bearing. You also need a bearing with very tight tolerances. Steel bearing, deep groove, like skf or something.
When it's locked in place you can get pretty good performance and life. You probably won't service sooner than 10kkm intervals. Hopefully even farther.
I have gotten it to work though so my guess is you can do it too with a 15267 if you aren't heavier than 75-80kg.
You need to put retaining compound on the inner and outer bearing race of this inner wheel bearing. You also need a bearing with very tight tolerances. Steel bearing, deep groove, like skf or something.
When it's locked in place you can get pretty good performance and life. You probably won't service sooner than 10kkm intervals. Hopefully even farther.
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bm0p700f
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How on earth is a wheel builder to trust in a hope and prayer, spend time and money, turning a mid price hub into a more expensive one and then say to the customer so long as your light and ride in the dry they should be fine hopefully. A pretty rubbish hub comes with caveats like that and requires extra work to help reliability.
If a hub can't cope with all riders and most conditions it is fairly rubbish as people ask what right for me. Do I have to hide in a bus shelter if it starts raining. Im not joking those are the questions I get.
Bitex rar12 are better on this front but still they uses tiny bearings.
If a hub can't cope with all riders and most conditions it is fairly rubbish as people ask what right for me. Do I have to hide in a bus shelter if it starts raining. Im not joking those are the questions I get.
Bitex rar12 are better on this front but still they uses tiny bearings.
It's a different perspective for a wheel builder. If I had to warranty the wheel I'd definitely use different components than I'm using for myself.
It must be frustrating to answer questions and have to give support to picky customers. Seems the average weight weenie likes to walk the fine line between weight and reliability.
From a home mechanic point of view though, maybe something like this is reasonable:
If you're ~50kg you can probably do fine with a bearing like 6802
If you're ~70kg you can probably do fine with a bearing like 15267
If you're ~90kg you can probably do fine with a bearing like a 6903
If a hub suits a 100kg rider then it would be overkill for a 50kg rider. Is the difference in weight enough to argue about, most probably no. If you're not a hopeless ww then just go with the bigger bearing.
What is "best" is a really annoying question isn't it?
From a home mechanic point of view though, maybe something like this is reasonable:
If you're ~50kg you can probably do fine with a bearing like 6802
If you're ~70kg you can probably do fine with a bearing like 15267
If you're ~90kg you can probably do fine with a bearing like a 6903
If a hub suits a 100kg rider then it would be overkill for a 50kg rider. Is the difference in weight enough to argue about, most probably no. If you're not a hopeless ww then just go with the bigger bearing.
What is "best" is a really annoying question isn't it?
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