Has anybody else experieced similar issues ? im considering taken the bearings out and swapping for SKF or similar.
The play may have been there before, i could be being over critical
ZIPP Rear 177 hub play (new bearings)
Moderator: robbosmans
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kieran9186
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sun Jul 08, 2018 9:30 pm
Just gave my 2016 303 177 rear hub an overhaul, new axle, new shim, new enduro bearings in hub and freehub, they run really smooth but there seems to be marginal elemnt of play between the bearings and the new axle.
Has anybody else experieced similar issues ? im considering taken the bearings out and swapping for SKF or similar.
The play may have been there before, i could be being over critical
Has anybody else experieced similar issues ? im considering taken the bearings out and swapping for SKF or similar.
The play may have been there before, i could be being over critical
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Does the hub have any form of preload adjustment?
Do you remember the inner wheel bearing to be quite easy to go over the axle and into the hub?
I had something I thought was a bearing play issue but it turned out it was the inner wheel bearing that had dug a bit into the alloy axle and also wasn't very hard to press into the shell (hand pressure enough) so what fixed it was a tiny amount of loctite 641 retaining compound on the inner race (and outer race). Hub is like new now and 80% of the play is gone.
If you use ceramic bearings, they usually have more play unless they cost a fortune. So if you don't want to pay a lot then just stick with skf (steel) or similar. I've tried enduro/nti/nsk/ntn and although they are all good I was most impressed with the low play in the recent skf. No fancy model either, just their simple 2RS standard bearing.
Do you remember the inner wheel bearing to be quite easy to go over the axle and into the hub?
I had something I thought was a bearing play issue but it turned out it was the inner wheel bearing that had dug a bit into the alloy axle and also wasn't very hard to press into the shell (hand pressure enough) so what fixed it was a tiny amount of loctite 641 retaining compound on the inner race (and outer race). Hub is like new now and 80% of the play is gone.
If you use ceramic bearings, they usually have more play unless they cost a fortune. So if you don't want to pay a lot then just stick with skf (steel) or similar. I've tried enduro/nti/nsk/ntn and although they are all good I was most impressed with the low play in the recent skf. No fancy model either, just their simple 2RS standard bearing.
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kieran9186
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sun Jul 08, 2018 9:30 pm
No preload on the 177 hub everything pushes together , can't quite remember how tight the bearing to axle fit was.
Tried the old bearings on the old axle they seem ok and I tried a spare enduro bearing equipped freehub and it certainly isn't as snug as i thought it would be.
I changed the axle as the the andodising was showing signs of wear on freehub side, I'm thinking now that this could of been caused by looseish bearing fit.
Tried the old bearings on the old axle they seem ok and I tried a spare enduro bearing equipped freehub and it certainly isn't as snug as i thought it would be.
I changed the axle as the the andodising was showing signs of wear on freehub side, I'm thinking now that this could of been caused by looseish bearing fit.
The wheel diameter amplifies the problem so that a small series of plays add up and are amplified into a large total play at the rim/brake/tire.
I suggest you take off the freehub and simply wiggle the axle sticking out of the hub shell. It should be almost fixed.
The inner wheel bearing is causing nearly all of the play in a wheel. Focus your efforts on getting a solid fit inner/outer race and that the play in the bearing itself is minimum.
I suggest you take off the freehub and simply wiggle the axle sticking out of the hub shell. It should be almost fixed.
The inner wheel bearing is causing nearly all of the play in a wheel. Focus your efforts on getting a solid fit inner/outer race and that the play in the bearing itself is minimum.
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floriansantana
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2014 8:57 pm
Reactivating this thread again. I replaced all bearings on my Zipp 303 firecrest wheels with 177D rear hub and now the freehub is kinda stuck. I don’t know how to really describe it, technically it works as it should, but it’s kinda hard to turn the freehub backwards and as soon as I put the wheel in and tighten the thru axle, I can’t pedal backwards, because it won’t turn. If I untighten the thru axle then it starts the work as it should.
Can it be because I’m missing the shim that usually sits between the bearing of the hub and the inner bearing of the freehub body? I suspect it’s because of the missing shim because now the bearings are pressing against each other an probably get stuck because of it. That would make sense, because as I tighten the whole system it’s getting worse, because the bearings are pressed against each other.
But I think and I’m almost 100% sure that the shim was missing before as well and it worked fine. Maybe I lost it while changing the bearings.
Can it be because I’m missing the shim that usually sits between the bearing of the hub and the inner bearing of the freehub body? I suspect it’s because of the missing shim because now the bearings are pressing against each other an probably get stuck because of it. That would make sense, because as I tighten the whole system it’s getting worse, because the bearings are pressed against each other.
But I think and I’m almost 100% sure that the shim was missing before as well and it worked fine. Maybe I lost it while changing the bearings.
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@floriansantana
Cannondale SystemSix HiMod Disc
@floriansantana
I'm not familiar with zipp hubs but on all my taiwanese hubs (4-5) there's that shim that usually comes out with the freehub, often unnoticed. It's the same dimension as the inner race of the bearing but 1mm thick.
Maybe you can find a diagram of the hub, and see if there really is a shim.
Other signs that there is, is that the freehub now sits a bit further in, and the seals/endcap might show signs that it's misaligned.
Maybe you can find a diagram of the hub, and see if there really is a shim.
Other signs that there is, is that the freehub now sits a bit further in, and the seals/endcap might show signs that it's misaligned.
Open view of the rear hub. There is a little shim in the whole body/rear axle view. Here is also a link for the seal and little shim :
https://www.bikeman.com/HU3213.html
https://www.bikeman.com/HU3213.html
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floriansantana
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Thu Dec 25, 2014 8:57 pm
Thanks, I know that there is a shim and that I’m missing it. That’s why I’m asking if the missing shim could be the reason the freehub is stuck when the wheel is inside the frame and the thru axle is tightened.
Cannondale SuperSix Evo Disc
Cannondale SystemSix HiMod Disc
@floriansantana
Cannondale SystemSix HiMod Disc
@floriansantana
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