Light Bicycle wheel rims?
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
I have, got those on by hand, so quite easy, comes off pretty nicely with tire levers, doable roadside. Right now I have 28mm on the front and 30mm on the back. 28mm has seen 1800km and is now about 31.1mm, 30mm has seen about 200km and is about 33mm, might still strecth a bit (had to replace puctured 28mm, 28mm was not in stock anywhere).
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Thanks a lot.
Same problem - no 28mm on stock anywhere. I usually go with GP5k 28mm and latex tubes.
But with current stock situation I'm forced to go either with GP5K S TR in 32mm tubeless, or Vittoria Corsa G2.0 in 30mm with latex tubes.
Opinions?
Both will obviously be outside 105% rule on WR50 rims, but these days I'm more interested in grip and comfort on 100+ km rides on bad roads anyway...
Same problem - no 28mm on stock anywhere. I usually go with GP5k 28mm and latex tubes.
But with current stock situation I'm forced to go either with GP5K S TR in 32mm tubeless, or Vittoria Corsa G2.0 in 30mm with latex tubes.
Opinions?
Both will obviously be outside 105% rule on WR50 rims, but these days I'm more interested in grip and comfort on 100+ km rides on bad roads anyway...
Grip and comfort likely better for Vittorias. Rolling resistance = Conti.
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Hi I'm a long time cyclist, first time weenie, looking for some advice on a 700C Falcon AR46 28MM WIDE 46MM DEPTH wheelset. I've contemplated upgrading to a non-stock wheelset on my Fuji Cross 3.0 for over a year now, which has saved me from making the mistake of buying a hunt wheelset, but I still can't convince myself to spend the money on new wheels. I only ride recreationally since racing isn't an option for me but I'd like to go as fast as possible and enjoy trying to beat PR's. I'm usually riding around 190 to 200 watts on an hour ride (3-3.2 w/kg) and was wondering if upgrading from my stock wheels 28mm depth, around 1900 grams, will make that much of a difference. I do a decent amount of climbing and also like going as fast as possible downhill.
The build I have going now is with DT SWISS 350 hubs 36T, shimano 11s, sapim cx-ray spokes, hooked, disc, centered rear wheel dishing pattern. Although it's a cross bike, I use it for road only. What else will I need to get started since my cassette is a sram 10 speed 11-32t? Also I have 6 bolt rotors. Will LB provide a centerlock to 6 bolt adapter for both wheels? And do I need rim tape since I'll be using tubes?
Thanks for any help. Hopefully I'll be convinced to actually buy the wheels since I've spent far too many hours looking online at various sets over the last year.
The build I have going now is with DT SWISS 350 hubs 36T, shimano 11s, sapim cx-ray spokes, hooked, disc, centered rear wheel dishing pattern. Although it's a cross bike, I use it for road only. What else will I need to get started since my cassette is a sram 10 speed 11-32t? Also I have 6 bolt rotors. Will LB provide a centerlock to 6 bolt adapter for both wheels? And do I need rim tape since I'll be using tubes?
Thanks for any help. Hopefully I'll be convinced to actually buy the wheels since I've spent far too many hours looking online at various sets over the last year.
I upgraded from stock 1700g giant wheels to the AR36 in 2016 and noticed the increased comfort and cornering traction going from 17C inner width to 21C inner width.flanders wrote:Hi I'm a long time cyclist, first time weenie, looking for some advice on a 700C Falcon AR46 28MM WIDE 46MM DEPTH wheelset. I've contemplated upgrading to a non-stock wheelset on my Fuji Cross 3.0 for over a year now, which has saved me from making the mistake of buying a hunt wheelset, but I still can't convince myself to spend the money on new wheels. I only ride recreationally since racing isn't an option for me but I'd like to go as fast as possible and enjoy trying to beat PR's. I'm usually riding around 190 to 200 watts on an hour ride (3-3.2 w/kg) and was wondering if upgrading from my stock wheels 28mm depth, around 1900 grams, will make that much of a difference. I do a decent amount of climbing and also like going as fast as possible downhill.
The build I have going now is with DT SWISS 350 hubs 36T, shimano 11s, sapim cx-ray spokes, hooked, disc, centered rear wheel dishing pattern. Although it's a cross bike, I use it for road only. What else will I need to get started since my cassette is a sram 10 speed 11-32t? Also I have 6 bolt rotors. Will LB provide a centerlock to 6 bolt adapter for both wheels? And do I need rim tape since I'll be using tubes?
Thanks for any help. Hopefully I'll be convinced to actually buy the wheels since I've spent far too many hours looking online at various sets over the last year.
The weight saving dropping from 1900g will feel noticeable in accelerations.
What sized tyres do you plan to run?
youll feel a major change I expect. I would suggest going for a 26mm front and 28mm rear tyre (i love the pirelli race combo I ride with latex tubes on the same rims). That will provide a good combination of speed/comfort. At your weight pressures between 4-5 bar should be great.flanders wrote: ↑Mon May 23, 2022 8:56 pmHi I'm a long time cyclist, first time weenie, looking for some advice on a 700C Falcon AR46 28MM WIDE 46MM DEPTH wheelset. I've contemplated upgrading to a non-stock wheelset on my Fuji Cross 3.0 for over a year now, which has saved me from making the mistake of buying a hunt wheelset, but I still can't convince myself to spend the money on new wheels. I only ride recreationally since racing isn't an option for me but I'd like to go as fast as possible and enjoy trying to beat PR's. I'm usually riding around 190 to 200 watts on an hour ride (3-3.2 w/kg) and was wondering if upgrading from my stock wheels 28mm depth, around 1900 grams, will make that much of a difference. I do a decent amount of climbing and also like going as fast as possible downhill.
The build I have going now is with DT SWISS 350 hubs 36T, shimano 11s, sapim cx-ray spokes, hooked, disc, centered rear wheel dishing pattern. Although it's a cross bike, I use it for road only. What else will I need to get started since my cassette is a sram 10 speed 11-32t? Also I have 6 bolt rotors. Will LB provide a centerlock to 6 bolt adapter for both wheels? And do I need rim tape since I'll be using tubes?
Thanks for any help. Hopefully I'll be convinced to actually buy the wheels since I've spent far too many hours looking online at various sets over the last year.
Dont think LB will provide 6 bolt adapters, theyre easy to find though. You might need an 1.85mm spacer for the cassette (should be included).
You can ask LB to build the drive rear side with cx-sprint spokes to improve power transfer ( i did anyway).
You can select no holes-rims, then you will not need rim tape.
Do take drain holes i'd advise and brass nipples.
If it fits in you cross-bike ( i think it does if i check Fuji Cross 3.0 website) you can also go for their gravel rims, the WR series is even wider and apparently rides really well with 28mm tyres front and rear.
Thanks for all the advice . Since I plan on using these rims for the next 10 years (unitl i'm 50) I think using brass nipples is the better option and I don't ride in wet weather so I'd go with no drain or access holes. LB has said they'll provide the adapters for $25 each (not sure if it's best to get more affordable ones somewhere else) but I'll have to get lockrings separately. Is it better to just buy centerlock rotors (my current ones are 6 years old and have over 7500 miles on them) or will I save in the long run with more affordable 6 bolt rotors and paying for the adaptors? I'll give it a few more days to decide but I leaning towards the 46mm wheelset, which comes to around $1100 w/shipping from the NA warehouse.Aesch wrote: ↑Tue May 24, 2022 8:34 am
youll feel a major change I expect. I would suggest going for a 26mm front and 28mm rear tyre (i love the pirelli race combo I ride with latex tubes on the same rims). That will provide a good combination of speed/comfort. At your weight pressures between 4-5 bar should be great.
Dont think LB will provide 6 bolt adapters, theyre easy to find though. You might need an 1.85mm spacer for the cassette (should be included).
You can ask LB to build the drive rear side with cx-sprint spokes to improve power transfer ( i did anyway).
You can select no holes-rims, then you will not need rim tape.
Do take drain holes i'd advise and brass nipples.
If it fits in you cross-bike ( i think it does if i check Fuji Cross 3.0 website) you can also go for their gravel rims, the WR series is even wider and apparently rides really well with 28mm tyres front and rear.
Well, if you just buy the dt swiss adapters in store they are cheaper. I like the ease of use of centerlock but never had issues with 6 bolt system either. That's a personal choice. I suggest to stick with solid steel rotors either way.flanders wrote: ↑Tue May 24, 2022 7:36 pmThanks for all the advice . Since I plan on using these rims for the next 10 years (unitl i'm 50) I think using brass nipples is the better option and I don't ride in wet weather so I'd go with no drain or access holes. LB has said they'll provide the adapters for $25 each (not sure if it's best to get more affordable ones somewhere else) but I'll have to get lockrings separately. Is it better to just buy centerlock rotors (my current ones are 6 years old and have over 7500 miles on them) or will I save in the long run with more affordable 6 bolt rotors and paying for the adaptors? I'll give it a few more days to decide but I leaning towards the 46mm wheelset, which comes to around $1100 w/shipping from the NA warehouse.Aesch wrote: ↑Tue May 24, 2022 8:34 am
youll feel a major change I expect. I would suggest going for a 26mm front and 28mm rear tyre (i love the pirelli race combo I ride with latex tubes on the same rims). That will provide a good combination of speed/comfort. At your weight pressures between 4-5 bar should be great.
Dont think LB will provide 6 bolt adapters, theyre easy to find though. You might need an 1.85mm spacer for the cassette (should be included).
You can ask LB to build the drive rear side with cx-sprint spokes to improve power transfer ( i did anyway).
You can select no holes-rims, then you will not need rim tape.
Do take drain holes i'd advise and brass nipples.
If it fits in you cross-bike ( i think it does if i check Fuji Cross 3.0 website) you can also go for their gravel rims, the WR series is even wider and apparently rides really well with 28mm tyres front and rear.
The WR is available in several heights too, especially if you plan to use it for a long time I'd suggest looking into those.
I've just realized I am an even bigger noob than I thought. My frame is a qr 135mm rear/qr 100mm front axle so my previous build won't work since the DT Swiss 350 rear hubs only come in 142mm. Can anyone give advice on the following build that I've done with Industry Nine Torch hubs instead:
Wheelset: AR46 Disc
RIM: Disc, Hook, Matte, UD
HUB: Industry Nine Torch, 12 / 100mm, QR / 135mm, Shimano Road 11S Alloy, J-bend, Center lock, Red, 24H, 60T
SPOKES: Sapim D-light
NIPPLES: Brass Black
ACCESSORIES/OTHERS: Non-removable glossy black waterslide graphics, Apply Tubeless Tape
It gives me the option to select qr 135mm for the rear but the front is a 12/100mm thru axle. Will the only hiccup be using a thru to qr adapter for the front hub and are these reliable or problematic. Are there other wheelset options I should consider instead? Thanks
Wheelset: AR46 Disc
RIM: Disc, Hook, Matte, UD
HUB: Industry Nine Torch, 12 / 100mm, QR / 135mm, Shimano Road 11S Alloy, J-bend, Center lock, Red, 24H, 60T
SPOKES: Sapim D-light
NIPPLES: Brass Black
ACCESSORIES/OTHERS: Non-removable glossy black waterslide graphics, Apply Tubeless Tape
It gives me the option to select qr 135mm for the rear but the front is a 12/100mm thru axle. Will the only hiccup be using a thru to qr adapter for the front hub and are these reliable or problematic. Are there other wheelset options I should consider instead? Thanks
I have DT350 hubs on one set of disc wheels and use the DT Swiss QR adaptors I purchased from LB. I can switch between my older QR 100/135 bike and my newer Thru axle 100/142 bike.flanders wrote:I've just realized I am an even bigger noob than I thought. My frame is a qr 135mm rear/qr 100mm front axle so my previous build won't work since the DT Swiss 350 rear hubs only come in 142mm. Can anyone give advice on the following build that I've done with Industry Nine Torch hubs instead:
Wheelset: AR46 Disc
RIM: Disc, Hook, Matte, UD
HUB: Industry Nine Torch, 12 / 100mm, QR / 135mm, Shimano Road 11S Alloy, J-bend, Center lock, Red, 24H, 60T
SPOKES: Sapim D-light
NIPPLES: Brass Black
ACCESSORIES/OTHERS: Non-removable glossy black waterslide graphics, Apply Tubeless Tape
It gives me the option to select qr 135mm for the rear but the front is a 12/100mm thru axle. Will the only hiccup be using a thru to qr adapter for the front hub and are these reliable or problematic. Are there other wheelset options I should consider instead? Thanks
I also have the QR end caps for my Hope hubs so I can do the same.
Make sure you buy a hub that can switch the end caps to Thru Axle should you wish to update the bike.
One last question. If I'm using these for recreational purposes, is it worth it to go with the cheaper Novatec hubs, which cost about $400 less, or go with the more expensive Industry Nine Torch hubs, where I'll need a end cap qr conversion kit for the front hub? I'm looking at a total of $750 vs $1150. Thanks
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