Light Bicycle wheel rims?

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musiclover
Posts: 494
Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2019 11:58 pm

by musiclover

pdlpsher1 wrote:
Tue Sep 21, 2021 5:38 am
Yes, water will enter througn the nipples.

What's your current wheel's ID width? 25mm ID is very wide for road. I'm using 25mm ID rims for gravel with 40mm tires mounted. For road I'm using 21mm ID and 32mm tires. I feel that my setups are perfect. If you mount a narrow tire on too wide of a rim your tire's sidewalls will be vulnerable to cuts from road debris. Amd you'll be cornering on the tires' sidewalls.

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I don't agree. I am using EIE SRG49TC31H with ID of 24mm and 30c Schwalbe Pro One. 3000k not a single cut or puncture. I am cornering just fine. If I have a look at my tyres I can see that the main wear is limited to the centre of the tyre. Not even close to sidewalls.
I have retired from this forum, not wasting any more time here.

polpy
Posts: 202
Joined: Fri Mar 05, 2021 11:05 am

by polpy

musiclover wrote:
pdlpsher1 wrote:
Tue Sep 21, 2021 5:38 am
Yes, water will enter througn the nipples.

What's your current wheel's ID width? 25mm ID is very wide for road. I'm using 25mm ID rims for gravel with 40mm tires mounted. For road I'm using 21mm ID and 32mm tires. I feel that my setups are perfect. If you mount a narrow tire on too wide of a rim your tire's sidewalls will be vulnerable to cuts from road debris. Amd you'll be cornering on the tires' sidewalls.

Sent from my KFMAWI using Tapatalk
I don't agree. I am using EIE SRG49TC31H with ID of 24mm and 30c Schwalbe Pro One. 3000k not a single cut or puncture. I am cornering just fine. If I have a look at my tyres I can see that the main wear is limited to the centre of the tyre. Not even close to sidewalls.
Running enve 3.4AR Disc with 25mm id and also 30mm Pro Ones without any issue.

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Cyclingintherain
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Joined: Sun Nov 22, 2020 12:11 pm

by Cyclingintherain

One thing about bigger inner width is that it changes the outer width of your tire. When I changed to my WR38s, my 32mm RH tires increased to 35mm. That made the front wheel a bit sensitive to side wind. So I ended up changing to a 28mm tire in the front, measuring 31mm.

Hexsense
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by Hexsense

23mm inner with 25c GP5000 on my front wheel,
25mm inner with 28c GP5000 on my rear wheel.
Both works great because GP5000 center tread is not narrow. I can't say it'll work the same if you use narrow tread tire like Michelin or Zipp tires though.

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pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

So if running wide is so good why stop at 25mm ID? Put some 25c tires on 28mm ID rims.

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musiclover
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by musiclover

pdlpsher1 wrote:
Tue Sep 21, 2021 11:34 pm
So if running wide is so good why stop at 25mm ID? Put some 25c tires on 28mm ID rims.
Could you recommend road 28ID rims? Enve nailed it with 25 IMO.
If you are thinking aero as well, outer will have to be around 30-31. I do not want to have rim sidewall more than 3mm thick, thanks.
I have retired from this forum, not wasting any more time here.

Hexsense
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by Hexsense

pdlpsher1 wrote:
Tue Sep 21, 2021 11:34 pm
So if running wide is so good why stop at 25mm ID? Put some 25c tires on 28mm ID rims.
Nah, slippery slope args don't carry us very far.

Optimal tire to rim width is the widest rim vs tire that pose no issue.
Wider rim + narrower tire improve tire stability, reduce rolling resistance, improve aero until...
a) tire center tread is too narrow and we corner on side wall
b) tire tread has knobs and knob shape become wrong, we start to roll straight line on side knobs which should be reserved for cornering etc.
c) rim is so wide that instead of making tire taller, it make tire shorter

So, tire with knobs (most mtb and gravel tires) are restricted early with (b). Some tire manufacturer recognize and make wide rim specific tread pattern too. Example is all the Maxxis WT series.
Smooth tire can get away with wider rim vs tire width but still restricted with tire center tread width (a).
c) is hardly a limit on normal tire because we reach the limit of a) or b) first

So, if you just start to corner on the sidewall with GP5000 25c tire on 25mm rim. Then back off one step and use 25c tire on 23mm rim or 28c tire on 25mm rim. It's that simple. Go just right below where the trouble awaits.
Which I respect your cautious to go 5-6 steps below where trouble awaits for extra extra safety. I'm just saying from where I try, that I found my combo to not reach problematic point yet.

flooffypie
Posts: 7
Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2021 6:25 am

by flooffypie

Hi all! New to this place.
I'm looking to buy a set of wheels from LB.. and on a pretty tight budget, roughly ~1.2k aud

Between DT350, I9 1/1, bitex and ARC, which one will you guys recommend and/or which will you avoid?

And is I9 torch/DT240/carbon-ti worth the addition 100-200aud?

Thank you!

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FIJIGabe
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by FIJIGabe

If it were my money, I'd go with the DT350. The design has been around for a while, has great durability, is relatively lightweight, easy to service and parts are easy to come by, since it shares internal dimensions with the DT240 & DT180. If you want it quiet, go with the 18T star ratchet or if you want it loud, opt for the 54T (my personal favorite). 36T comes somewhere in between.

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musiclover
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by musiclover

How long do 18t ratchets last before the teeth are ground down? (And are they more lasting than 36t or 54t)
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FIJIGabe
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by FIJIGabe

I have never seen a set of 18T (or 36T) wear down. I've heard of 54T get chipped, but I've never seen it, personally (between my wife and I, we have 4 sets of 54T star ratchets on our respective wheels, each with thousands of hours of riding time on them).

hartmannce
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Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2020 5:13 pm

by hartmannce

musiclover wrote:
Wed Sep 22, 2021 1:54 pm
How long do 18t ratchets last before the teeth are ground down? (And are they more lasting than 36t or 54t)
I have 18t ratchet in my dt350s and I can bet that the ratchet would last >20k km (realistically even more).

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pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

For road riding 18T is the best since it has less friction when coasting and better durability. My wheelset for gravel came with 240 EXP hubs with 36T. For gravel riding 36T is an ideal balance between friction and quicker engagement. For MTB the 54T is the best so you can have the quickest engagement while on a very low gear, in order to clear road obstacles when riding a technical trail. Using a 54T on the road just for the noise factor is fine as long as one is willing to accept the loss of speed during a high speed descent. There's no free lunch.

flooffypie
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Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2021 6:25 am

by flooffypie

flooffypie wrote:
Wed Sep 22, 2021 12:24 pm
Hi all! New to this place.
I'm looking to buy a set of wheels from LB.. and on a pretty tight budget, roughly ~1.2k aud

Between DT350, I9 1/1, bitex and ARC, which one will you guys recommend and/or which will you avoid?

And is I9 torch/DT240/carbon-ti worth the addition 100-200aud?

Thank you!
Thanks for all the input!
Forgot to specify, i'm using it for road riding and i seldom/almost never ride in wet conditions + i'm very light (around 57kgs).
Currently on stock wheels (fulcrum 900DB), so anything will be an upgrade haha.

TwiggyForest
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Joined: Wed Jun 03, 2020 2:06 am

by TwiggyForest

I would go DT Swiss 350, it's a proven design and easy to get parts in Australia. Then the Bitex hub, these are generally the best regarded cheap China hub.

I have no experience or seen reviews on the cheaper I9 hub, it's probably good but no idea.

by Weenie


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