Light Bicycle wheel rims?

[Weber]

There are notable differences between the falcon and falcon pro version or is it convenient to invest that money in hubs?

[Veto]

I am having some rubbing issues with my AR56 wheels. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So, my wheelset is AR56, 21mm/28mm internal/external width, Sapim CX Ray spokes with Sapim Sprint spokes on drive side and Bitex Hubs.
My frame set is Giant TCR advanced 2020 rim brakes. Tyres i'm using are Vittoria Open Pave 27cs.

The issue is rear tyre is rubbing inside of the chain stay when high power is applied to the drivetrain. But only on the non drive side. I don't actually feel the rubbing when riding. I only noticed it when i got a sidewall blow out. I saw rubbing marks on the non drive side of the tyre. There are marks on different places of the tyre but the most of the damage is fixated on one small particular place of the tyre which is weird to me. Then i saw the left chain stay which had tyre remains stuck to it.

When i look at it, everything seems right. The wheel is centered and everything is straight, there is enough space clearence from the frame, brakes are far away...etc.
My sprint is topped at 1400 watts which i rarely do. I do intervals at 350 watts sometimes and i'm 80kg. These aren't unusual numbers, i expect wheels to function properly at these levels. My wheel/tyre width for TCR frame should also be fine. Shane Miller's test included wider rims and tyres. And this width is what was recommended to me instead of 30mm external by Light Bicycle CS when i told them my frame and brake setup.

The fact that the flex is happening only on the non drive side is making me suspect it's to do with Sapim CX Ray and Sprint combination spokes. I've got the Sprint spokes on the drive side because i didn't want any flex at all. I can't say i understand the technicals of it. Can stiffness imbalance in drive and non drive side cause problems? Because my impression is that CX Rays by themselves should already be stiff enough. Any ideas how can i fix this? Thanks.

[IvanZg]

I am having some rubbing issues with my AR56 wheels. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So, my wheelset is AR56, 21mm/28mm internal/external width, Sapim CX Ray spokes with Sapim Sprint spokes on drive side and Bitex Hubs.
My frame set is Giant TCR advanced 2020 rim brakes. Tyres i'm using are Vittoria Open Pave 27cs.

The issue is rear tyre is rubbing inside of the chain stay when high power is applied to the drivetrain. But only on the non drive side. I don't actually feel the rubbing when riding. I only noticed it when i got a sidewall blow out. I saw rubbing marks on the non drive side of the tyre. There are marks on different places of the tyre but the most of the damage is fixated on one small particular place of the tyre which is weird to me. Then i saw the left chain stay which had tyre remains stuck to it.

When i look at it, everything seems right. The wheel is centered and everything is straight, there is enough space clearence from the frame, brakes are far away...etc.
My sprint is topped at 1400 watts which i rarely do. I do intervals at 350 watts sometimes and i'm 80kg. These aren't unusual numbers, i expect wheels to function properly at these levels. My wheel/tyre width for TCR frame should also be fine. Shane Miller's test included wider rims and tyres. And this width is what was recommended to me instead of 30mm external by Light Bicycle CS when i told them my frame and brake setup.

The fact that the flex is happening only on the non drive side is making me suspect it's to do with Sapim CX Ray and Sprint combination spokes. I've got the Sprint spokes on the drive side because i didn't want any flex at all. I can't say i understand the technicals of it. Can stiffness imbalance in drive and non drive side cause problems? Because my impression is that CX Rays by themselves should already be stiff enough. Any ideas how can i fix this? Thanks.

Go to the bike shop and let them see what spoke tension are. Maybe spokes just need to be tensioned.
I had the same issue with an older LB 35mm rear wheel with CX Ray spokes when running 28mm tires. Quick solution was to put 25mm tire in the back. Long term one was to replace drive side spokes with dt swiss straight gauge round spokes.

[TamCyclist]

Hey guys - Longtime lurker, first time poster.

I was hoping you could help me decide my next wheel set(s) for my do-it-all Aspero build. I'll be riding everything from road to gravel races.

Im debating two choices. Either buy:

Option 1: WR40, hook, as a do-it-all-wheel
Option 2: WR38, hooked, do-it-all wheel
Option 3: AR24 as my gravel wheel, AR35 as my road wheel + light gravel
Option 4: LMK, open to suggestions!!

I'd prefer to buy 1 do-it-all wheel set, but frankly I'll probably end up with 2 regardless, so suggest away. Was also planning on building with DT240, but if there are strong alternate opinions there, also open to suggestions.

Thanks for the help!

[pdlpsher1]

I have the 650B version of this rim. With 40mm wide tires it's perfect. I would recommend this over the AR24. It's listed under MTB but it's perfect for gravel riding.

[TamCyclist]

I have the 650B version of this rim. With 40mm wide tires it's perfect. I would recommend this over the AR24. It's listed under MTB but it's perfect for gravel riding.

Very interesting - thanks a ton for the insight. Would have never looked there. Do you think that'd be comparable to the enve g23? That's kind of why I was looking at the AR24 in the first place..

[pdlpsher1]

For serious gravel riding 25mm internal width is better than 23mm. It allows you to run a wider tire at lower pressures. AR24 is also a good choice if you don't plan on mounting 40mm tires on them.

[Veto]

I am having some rubbing issues with my AR56 wheels. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So, my wheelset is AR56, 21mm/28mm internal/external width, Sapim CX Ray spokes with Sapim Sprint spokes on drive side and Bitex Hubs.
My frame set is Giant TCR advanced 2020 rim brakes. Tyres i'm using are Vittoria Open Pave 27cs.

The issue is rear tyre is rubbing inside of the chain stay when high power is applied to the drivetrain. But only on the non drive side. I don't actually feel the rubbing when riding. I only noticed it when i got a sidewall blow out. I saw rubbing marks on the non drive side of the tyre. There are marks on different places of the tyre but the most of the damage is fixated on one small particular place of the tyre which is weird to me. Then i saw the left chain stay which had tyre remains stuck to it.

When i look at it, everything seems right. The wheel is centered and everything is straight, there is enough space clearence from the frame, brakes are far away...etc.
My sprint is topped at 1400 watts which i rarely do. I do intervals at 350 watts sometimes and i'm 80kg. These aren't unusual numbers, i expect wheels to function properly at these levels. My wheel/tyre width for TCR frame should also be fine. Shane Miller's test included wider rims and tyres. And this width is what was recommended to me instead of 30mm external by Light Bicycle CS when i told them my frame and brake setup.

The fact that the flex is happening only on the non drive side is making me suspect it's to do with Sapim CX Ray and Sprint combination spokes. I've got the Sprint spokes on the drive side because i didn't want any flex at all. I can't say i understand the technicals of it. Can stiffness imbalance in drive and non drive side cause problems? Because my impression is that CX Rays by themselves should already be stiff enough. Any ideas how can i fix this? Thanks.

Go to the bike shop and let them see what spoke tension are. Maybe spokes just need to be tensioned.
I had the same issue with an older LB 35mm rear wheel with CX Ray spokes when running 28mm tires. Quick solution was to put 25mm tire in the back. Long term one was to replace drive side spokes with dt swiss straight gauge round spokes.

Thanks. There are no decent bike shops where i live. I'll take the wheel with me when i go out of town to a big city next time. Hope it's to do with tensions.

[TamCyclist]

For serious gravel riding 25mm internal width is better than 23mm. It allows you to run a wider tire at lower pressures. AR24 is also a good choice if you don't plan on mounting 40mm tires on them.

Thanks for this. Do you think the WR38/WR40 would be the play for everything from road to heavy gravel? At least to start?

Can always buy a road-only wheel set in 6 months or so, but thinking of getting the gravel-focused wheel set first.. just don't want it to be terrible on the road for that first 6mo-year

[RDY]

I am having some rubbing issues with my AR56 wheels. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So, my wheelset is AR56, 21mm/28mm internal/external width, Sapim CX Ray spokes with Sapim Sprint spokes on drive side and Bitex Hubs.
My frame set is Giant TCR advanced 2020 rim brakes. Tyres i'm using are Vittoria Open Pave 27cs.

The issue is rear tyre is rubbing inside of the chain stay when high power is applied to the drivetrain. But only on the non drive side. I don't actually feel the rubbing when riding. I only noticed it when i got a sidewall blow out. I saw rubbing marks on the non drive side of the tyre. There are marks on different places of the tyre but the most of the damage is fixated on one small particular place of the tyre which is weird to me. Then i saw the left chain stay which had tyre remains stuck to it.

When i look at it, everything seems right. The wheel is centered and everything is straight, there is enough space clearence from the frame, brakes are far away...etc.
My sprint is topped at 1400 watts which i rarely do. I do intervals at 350 watts sometimes and i'm 80kg. These aren't unusual numbers, i expect wheels to function properly at these levels. My wheel/tyre width for TCR frame should also be fine. Shane Miller's test included wider rims and tyres. And this width is what was recommended to me instead of 30mm external by Light Bicycle CS when i told them my frame and brake setup.

The fact that the flex is happening only on the non drive side is making me suspect it's to do with Sapim CX Ray and Sprint combination spokes. I've got the Sprint spokes on the drive side because i didn't want any flex at all. I can't say i understand the technicals of it. Can stiffness imbalance in drive and non drive side cause problems? Because my impression is that CX Rays by themselves should already be stiff enough. Any ideas how can i fix this? Thanks.

Go to the bike shop and let them see what spoke tension are. Maybe spokes just need to be tensioned.
I had the same issue with an older LB 35mm rear wheel with CX Ray spokes when running 28mm tires. Quick solution was to put 25mm tire in the back. Long term one was to replace drive side spokes with dt swiss straight gauge round spokes.

Thanks. There are no decent bike shops where i live. I'll take the wheel with me when i go out of town to a big city next time. Hope it's to do with tensions.

Check the rear hub end caps. They can come loose on the BX312R after a while, particulrly if you're taking the rear wheel out a lot or unscrewing and re-screwing the thru axles a lot.

[Veto]

I am having some rubbing issues with my AR56 wheels. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So, my wheelset is AR56, 21mm/28mm internal/external width, Sapim CX Ray spokes with Sapim Sprint spokes on drive side and Bitex Hubs.
My frame set is Giant TCR advanced 2020 rim brakes. Tyres i'm using are Vittoria Open Pave 27cs.

The issue is rear tyre is rubbing inside of the chain stay when high power is applied to the drivetrain. But only on the non drive side. I don't actually feel the rubbing when riding. I only noticed it when i got a sidewall blow out. I saw rubbing marks on the non drive side of the tyre. There are marks on different places of the tyre but the most of the damage is fixated on one small particular place of the tyre which is weird to me. Then i saw the left chain stay which had tyre remains stuck to it.

When i look at it, everything seems right. The wheel is centered and everything is straight, there is enough space clearence from the frame, brakes are far away...etc.
My sprint is topped at 1400 watts which i rarely do. I do intervals at 350 watts sometimes and i'm 80kg. These aren't unusual numbers, i expect wheels to function properly at these levels. My wheel/tyre width for TCR frame should also be fine. Shane Miller's test included wider rims and tyres. And this width is what was recommended to me instead of 30mm external by Light Bicycle CS when i told them my frame and brake setup.

The fact that the flex is happening only on the non drive side is making me suspect it's to do with Sapim CX Ray and Sprint combination spokes. I've got the Sprint spokes on the drive side because i didn't want any flex at all. I can't say i understand the technicals of it. Can stiffness imbalance in drive and non drive side cause problems? Because my impression is that CX Rays by themselves should already be stiff enough. Any ideas how can i fix this? Thanks.

Go to the bike shop and let them see what spoke tension are. Maybe spokes just need to be tensioned.
I had the same issue with an older LB 35mm rear wheel with CX Ray spokes when running 28mm tires. Quick solution was to put 25mm tire in the back. Long term one was to replace drive side spokes with dt swiss straight gauge round spokes.

Thanks. There are no decent bike shops where i live. I'll take the wheel with me when i go out of town to a big city next time. Hope it's to do with tensions.

Check the rear hub end caps. They can come loose on the BX312R after a while, particulrly if you're taking the rear wheel out a lot or unscrewing and re-screwing the thru axles a lot.

Yeah, that's not it. They are not loose. Mine's RAR9 btw, rim brake.

[JWTS]

Hey All,

Read through a large chunk of this thread and getting ready to place an order for a set of Falcon Pro AR55, DT 240 EXP hubs, CX Ray, 24/24. I have two questions:


1) the "LW" version of the rim--anyone have any feedback on those vs. the regular version? I'm 68kg at my fattest,normally 62kg, so I image this would be fine? I'll be on roads 95% of the time, with occassional groomed gravel climb, and will be running 5000S TL's, either 28's or 30's.

2) no spoke holes: does the sealant react w/the carbon--and is tape still recommended for tubeless if I opt to not have the back of the rim drilled? Not really seeing this on LW's site.

Thanks!

[pdlpsher1]

Flyweight should be OK for your weight and the rim depth you have chosen. No spoke hole is much preferred. Rim tapes can degrade and fail. The sealant will not affect the bare carbon.

[pdlpsher1]

For serious gravel riding 25mm internal width is better than 23mm. It allows you to run a wider tire at lower pressures. AR24 is also a good choice if you don't plan on mounting 40mm tires on them.

Thanks for this. Do you think the WR38/WR40 would be the play for everything from road to heavy gravel? At least to start?

Can always buy a road-only wheel set in 6 months or so, but thinking of getting the gravel-focused wheel set first.. just don't want it to be terrible on the road for that first 6mo-year

If you want a gravel focused wheelset go for a shallow depth. It'll be lighter. WR38/WR40 are fine but they add weight but add no aero advantage once you put a 40mm tire on. For gravel I personally use MTB rims.

[JWTS]

Flyweight should be OK for your weight and the rim depth you have chosen. No spoke hole is much preferred. Rim tapes can degrade and fail. The sealant will not affect the bare carbon.

Great, thanks for the response!