Light Bicycle wheel rims?

[Hexsense]

I've made a right mess of my new AR46 matte wheels trying to get on some Schwalbe Pro One tubeless tyres.

IMG_0260.jpeg

Any idea if I could get these tyre lever marks out (line around the outside) or have I damaged them irredeemably before the first ride

Suppose, if anything I'll be less bothered when they pickup a stone mark now

Alternative is to change the entire rim surface to satin or glossy which gets a benefit of easy cleaning.
I like Gyeon Rim or Gyeon Pure Evo ceramic coating for their look and cleanability.
The Gyeon Rim make it Satin-ish finish. The Pure Evo apply thick ceramic coating on and make it glossy.

[Sbear55]

Wheels shipped yesterday. No idea how long China (MTS air) will take to USA. R65 front, R88 rear, grooved graphene, hexacomb, no spoke access holes, drain holes, glossy, dt Swiss 350, cx ray.

They are going on my 16 year olds Tri bike as a surprise.




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[mikedtn]

I've made a right mess of my new AR46 matte wheels trying to get on some Schwalbe Pro One tubeless tyres.

IMG_0260.jpeg

Any idea if I could get these tyre lever marks out (line around the outside) or have I damaged them irredeemably before the first ride

Suppose, if anything I'll be less bothered when they pickup a stone mark now

Alternative is to change the entire rim surface to satin or glossy which gets a benefit of easy cleaning.
I like Gyeon Rim or Gyeon Pure Evo ceramic coating for their look and cleanability.
The Gyeon Rim make it Satin-ish finish. The Pure Evo apply thick ceramic coating on and make it glossy.

Is this something that's easy to do? I just purchase Gyeon Rim and apply onto the carbon rim surface while clean and dry, or does it require thorough buffing?

[Hexsense]

Apply to clean rim. Easy.

[mikedtn]

Apply to clean rim. Easy.

Nice one, I'd have no idea how it would look, but I imagine better than the marks that have been left by the tyre levers.

[warthog101]

Wondering if having no center hole channel access holes is really worth the extra weight? Putting tape will save some weight (I know marginal), but tape works really well and is super easy to install.

Well I haven't broken a spoke, however tyres install and seat easily.
Happy I went no spoke holes so far.
Hookless rims work well at my weight too (76kg)
5bar is plenty of pressure at 25 and up.

[oLLeg]

Apply to clean rim. Easy.

....marks that have been left by the tyre levers.

It will not remove marks,but will make rim surface oleophobic and glossy (maybe).
I'm using Turtle Wax Ceramic Spray.

[Hexsense]

I have Turtle Wax too. It's good for spray on oleophobic/hydrophobic property but
that spray doesn't have the same hard shell effect as those concentrated SiO2 droplet. The Gyeon rim and Pure Evo is thick like another hard clear coat layer. While Turtle wax ceramic spray is more slippery but it barely have any thickness. Rim that I apply Gyeon rim on two years ago still have the satin look today. Turtle wax faded away in about a month or two, but it's more slippery.

So, apply 9H hard ceramic coating using Gyeon rim first just once then add oleophobic property using Turtle wax on top every few months can be a way to go for over protecting the rim.

ps. thin layer of Gyeon rim create satin look but if you apply it thick and let it dry without wiping it off then that'll be glossy similar to Gyeon Pure Evo as well. Either way is fine but try to be consistent across the wheel.

[mikedtn]

I have Turtle Wax too. It's good for spray on oleophobic/hydrophobic property but
that spray doesn't have the same hard shell effect as those concentrated SiO2 droplet. The Gyeon rim and Pure Evo is thick like another hard clear coat layer. While Turtle wax ceramic spray is more slippery but it barely have any thickness. Rim that I apply Gyeon rim on two years ago still have the satin look today. Turtle wax faded away in about a month or two, but it's more slippery.

So, apply 9H hard ceramic coating using Gyeon rim first just once then add oleophobic property using Turtle wax on top every few months can be a way to go for over protecting the rim.

ps. thin layer of Gyeon rim create satin look but if you apply it thick and let it dry without wiping it off then that'll be glossy similar to Gyeon Pure Evo as well. Either way is fine but try to be consistent across the wheel.

I've taken a video of the damage I've done with the tyre levers, Light Bicycle suggested trying 100% alcohol to remove them, but as can be seen in the video, it did nothing.



@Hexsense, seeing the damage in greater detail, does it still look like something Gyeon rim could help conceal? Just wanting to double check before I purchase some and start looking into how to apply.

Thanks

[mr.wulf]

An ordered Zipp 404 FC came 1.571g I sent them back and looked for alternatives.

Happy I found this thread and I placed my order yesterday.

AR 56 featherlight rims, satin finish with DT240exp and Pillar Spokes. Should be 1.410g … impressive light I would say. Hopefully faster than 6-8weeks until I have them here. And the rims are with a hook I don’t have the limitations with tire choice as with the hookless Zipps.

[Hexsense]

I've taken a video of the damage I've done with the tyre levers, Light Bicycle suggested trying 100% alcohol to remove them, but as can be seen in the video, it did nothing.

@Hexsense, seeing the damage in greater detail, does it still look like something Gyeon rim could help conceal? Just wanting to double check before I purchase some and start looking into how to apply.
Thanks

Currently your damage is easy to spot because the rim is matte but damage is glossy. So, apply thick coat for glossy look.
It won't cure the damage. But the whole rim will look shiny like it's wet. And that'll make it really hard to see the damage.

[mikedtn]

I've taken a video of the damage I've done with the tyre levers, Light Bicycle suggested trying 100% alcohol to remove them, but as can be seen in the video, it did nothing.

@Hexsense, seeing the damage in greater detail, does it still look like something Gyeon rim could help conceal? Just wanting to double check before I purchase some and start looking into how to apply.
Thanks

Currently your damage is easy to spot because the rim is matte but damage is glossy. So, apply thick coat for glossy look.
It won't cure the damage. But the whole rim will look shiny like it's wet. And that'll make it really hard to see the damage.

Nice one, thanks for the help

[rhs2z]

WOO, after about 10 hours, I finally finished reading this thread front to back. And now I have some questions haha.
--
I normally ride HED Jet6s, but I want a lighter rim brake wheelset for when I race in the mountains. I was looking at Farsports but realized that they are too narrow. I run GP5K TL, so I want one of the 21internal/28external wheelsets, somewhere around a 40-55mm depth. I am 75kg (rider plus bike). The options are:

AR465 (standard or flyweight)
AR55 (standard or flyweight)
AR56 (standard .. and maybe flyweight?)
AR46 (standard .. and maybe flyweight?)

Questions:
1. Flyweight options? On LB's site, only the AR465 and AR55 are listed as having a flyweight option in the wheelbuilder. But the site does say that all falcon wheels come with a flyweight option, and at least a few posters have mentioned having (rim-brake) AR46 in flyweights. Can anyone tell me what the rim weights are for the flyweight (rim-brake) AR46 and AR56s?

2. Safety concerns with flyweight AR465/AR55?Several pages back, a poster said that LB recommended against the flyweight versions of the (rim-brake) AR46 due to risk of heat deformation. (Like other posters, I was a bit perplexed that LB would sell wheels that they consider unsafe.) At any rate, I am curious whether this concern applies to the flyweight versions of AR465/AR55 as well?
-I notice that, unlike the AR46/56, LB *does* list the flyweight versions of the AR465/AR55 on their website. So maybe they view these as more reliable?
-I also notice that the flyweight versions of the AR465/AR55 are---at least according to the wheelbuilder---almost exactly the same weight as the standard versions of the AR46/56. (Only a 0 to 10g difference) So it would be odd if the AR465/AR55 flyweights were unsafe.

3. AR 465/AR55 vs. AR46/56This last observation prompts me to ask a question that been asked several times before in this thread: why opt for the more expensive AR465/AR55 over the older AR46/56?
-Weight: the AR46/56 is the same weight or else lighter. (More precisely: the AR46/56 is the same weight as the flyweight AR465/AR55. Presumably, the flyweight AR46/56 (safety concerns aside) is 40-50g lighter).
-Aerodynamics: the AR465/AR55 have the "most advanced" U-shape rim shape, which swells to 30mm then back to 28mm at the brake track for a more toroidal shape. The AR56/AR46 have a rounded-V profile, described as similar to the Aeolus. My impression is that there is no convincing evidence that one is more aero than the other. (In the Hambini tests, rounded V wheels do well, but of course he's using 23mm tires.) Am I correct in judging the evidence to be inconclusive?
--Stability Some people claim that the U-shape is more stable. But other have responded that the rounded-Vs are perfectly stable. FWIW, my HED JET6+s seem to have a rounded V shape and I've *never* felt unstable on them, even with 20mph+ crosswinds. So I'm inclined not to worry about this.
-There are different finishes, which I don't care much about, I care about speed haha.

Thank you to anyone who can address some or all of the above questions.

[alanyu]

Questions:
1. Flyweight options? On LB's site, only the AR465 and AR55 are listed as having a flyweight option in the wheelbuilder. But the site does say that all falcon wheels come with a flyweight option, and at least a few posters have mentioned having (rim-brake) AR46 in flyweights. Can anyone tell me what the rim weights are for the flyweight (rim-brake) AR46 and AR56s?

2. Safety concerns with flyweight AR465/AR55?Several pages back, a poster said that LB recommended against the flyweight versions of the (rim-brake) AR46 due to risk of heat deformation. (Like other posters, I was a bit perplexed that LB would sell wheels that they consider unsafe.) At any rate, I am curious whether this concern applies to the flyweight versions of AR465/AR55 as well?
-I notice that, unlike the AR46/56, LB *does* list the flyweight versions of the AR465/AR55 on their website. So maybe they view these as more reliable?
-I also notice that the flyweight versions of the AR465/AR55 are---at least according to the wheelbuilder---almost exactly the same weight as the standard versions of the AR46/56. (Only a 0 to 10g difference) So it would be odd if the AR465/AR55 flyweights were unsafe.

3. AR 465/AR55 vs. AR46/56This last observation prompts me to ask a question that been asked several times before in this thread: why opt for the more expensive AR465/AR55 over the older AR46/56?
-Weight: the AR46/56 is the same weight or else lighter. (More precisely: the AR46/56 is the same weight as the flyweight AR465/AR55. Presumably, the flyweight AR46/56 (safety concerns aside) is 40-50g lighter).
-Aerodynamics: the AR465/AR55 have the "most advanced" U-shape rim shape, which swells to 30mm then back to 28mm at the brake track for a more toroidal shape. The AR56/AR46 have a rounded-V profile, described as similar to the Aeolus. My impression is that there is no convincing evidence that one is more aero than the other. (In the Hambini tests, rounded V wheels do well, but of course he's using 23mm tires.) Am I correct in judging the evidence to be inconclusive?
--Stability Some people claim that the U-shape is more stable. But other have responded that the rounded-Vs are perfectly stable. FWIW, my HED JET6+s seem to have a rounded V shape and I've *never* felt unstable on them, even with 20mph+ crosswinds. So I'm inclined not to worry about this.
-There are different finishes, which I don't care much about, I care about speed haha.

Thank you to anyone who can address some or all of the above questions.

1, flyweight AR46 is 435g, AR56 is 450g IIRC. I ride AR56 normal version currently and ordered AR46 flyweight in build by LB.

2, the brake track of flyweight version is slightly thinner than the normal version, so it's a bit weaker. AR465/AR55 is wider than AR46/AR56 + a different cross section, and the surface area is larger thus more material needs to be used if they are the same version (layup).

3, Sorry but your concept on aero is wrong. U/toroidal shape is out of date (actually quite a bit voids in the U shape theory). In 2022.01 tour issue, DT ARC 1100 60 (UV shape) is the fastest, while the Shimano D-AA C60 (curved V) is the second and Bontrager RSL 62 (curved V) is the third, other three in the test are Zipp 454 NSW (Sawtooth), Vision Metron 60 (U) and Campy Bora WTO 60 (U). The most stable one is RSL62 despite it's fractionally deeper. The worst aerodynamics and cross wind stablitiy two are Vision and Campy.

[rhs2z]

1, flyweight AR46 is 435g, AR56 is 450g IIRC. I ride AR56 normal version currently and ordered AR46 flyweight in build by LB.

2, the brake track of flyweight version is slightly thinner than the normal version, so it's a bit weaker. AR465/AR55 is wider than AR46/AR56 + a different cross section, and the surface area is larger thus more material needs to be used if they are the same version (layup).

3, Sorry but your concept on aero is wrong. U/toroidal shape is out of date (actually quite a bit voids in the U shape theory). In 2022.01 tour issue, DT ARC 1100 60 (UV shape) is the fastest, while the Shimano D-AA C60 (curved V) is the second and Bontrager RSL 62 (curved V) is the third, other three in the test are Zipp 454 NSW (Sawtooth), Vision Metron 60 (U) and Campy Bora WTO 60 (U). The most stable one is RSL62 despite it's fractionally deeper. The worst aerodynamics and cross wind stablitiy two are Vision and Campy.

Thanks alanyu. On the basis of your comment, it sounds like the AR46/56 are the way to go.

Since you purchased the flyweight AR46 (rim-brake, I assume), may I ask: had you seen the posts about LB recommending against flyweight rim-brake wheels (due to heat deformation worries)? Did you think about that at all when choosing your wheels?