Light Bicycle wheel rims?

Wheels, Tires, Tubes, Tubeless, Tubs, Spokes, Hookless, Hubs, and more!

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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.

If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
Pinguin
Posts: 271
Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2018 9:28 pm

by Pinguin

Beaver wrote:
Fri Mar 22, 2019 12:43 pm
upside wrote:
Thu Mar 21, 2019 7:41 pm
I plan in building a low profile rim for a hilly area and the concern from crosswinds. Light Bicycle has a 280 degree brake surface which I am looking at and is 25mm depth which is perfect. They rae a custom order, so asking questions so I do not make a mistake. Does anyone here anything bad about that new surface,
The new brake track is all right, no delamination reports so far. ;) You can decide, if you want a texture like Campy AC3 or not - I skipped it, as it is only a tad better in wet conditions and a bit worse in the dry. Nothing really noticable.


My set was shipped two weeks after order. But shipping to Europe will take a month to six weeks...

Rims should be below 420g each, so no bad weight for a carbon clincher with 36x28mm and 21mm inside. ;)
Looks great
How is brake performance and whats the exactly name of those rims?

by Weenie


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Sleeprequired
Posts: 146
Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2019 10:59 am

by Sleeprequired

Terrordact wrote:
Fri Mar 22, 2019 7:37 pm
Sleeprequired wrote:
Fri Mar 22, 2019 7:53 am
Well I’m happy to say my LB 56mm Falcons have arrived and been paired with some Continental GP5000 25cc’s.

Measure 28.3mm on a 30mm rim. Perfecto!

Rims weighed in at 1528g and look totally nuts!! Very happy with the look and finish, balance and they’re very true. Haven’t had a chance to ride them yet but tomorrow morning will solve that problem.

ImageLB 56mm Falcons by Sleeprequired
ImageLB 56mm Falcons by Sleeprequired
Clincher or Tubeless? Got the same rims, wheels will be built next week, and I'm thinking of going with the same exact tire. How hard were they to mount?
There’s a few questions from the group so I’ll try to answer them all.

The bike is a roubaix and it’s mostly about comfort and a little about speed. The rear seat post is a ‘cobble gobbler’ and it’s designed to make things more comfortable. Also there’s the spring in the neck stem. I was this close to buying a venge which rode really well but when I got back on my bike I had a rethink and went for wheels instead.

The wheels balance very easily on the scales, I’d seen someone else do it on the forum and it took all of about 5 seconds

I should add that the rims are actually 30.45 which is great for when the tyres stretch a little.

I used clinchers on mine and broke a plastic tyre lever and 2 tubes until I did this - I hope it helps others.

Pop on one side and then put in your tube. Wrap a bit of tape around the valve because it’ll rattle when youre done where ithe valve meets the rim. Once you’ve popped the tube in all the way round you need to make sure the bead of the tyre is in the centre of the rim. With the other side of the bead proceed to pop that over the rim and when you get to the last bit, stop and make sure BOTH sides of the bead are in the middle ‘dip’ of the rim around the whole tyre. If you do this, when you get to the last part you’ll be able to fit them by hand, don’t do it and you’ll break tyre levers for sure.

Terrordact
Posts: 24
Joined: Sun Oct 28, 2018 10:30 pm

by Terrordact

Awesome, thank you!

ericoschmitt
Posts: 186
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 7:47 pm

by ericoschmitt

Sleeprequired wrote:
Fri Mar 22, 2019 8:23 pm

The wheels balance very easily on the scales, I’d seen someone else do it on the forum and it took all of about 5 seconds

I should add that the rims are actually 30.45 which is great for when the tyres stretch a little.

I used clinchers on mine and broke a plastic tyre lever and 2 tubes until I did this - I hope it helps others.

Pop on one side and then put in your tube. Wrap a bit of tape around the valve because it’ll rattle when youre done where ithe valve meets the rim. Once you’ve popped the tube in all the way round you need to make sure the bead of the tyre is in the centre of the rim. With the other side of the bead proceed to pop that over the rim and when you get to the last bit, stop and make sure BOTH sides of the bead are in the middle ‘dip’ of the rim around the whole tyre. If you do this, when you get to the last part you’ll be able to fit them by hand, don’t do it and you’ll break tyre levers for sure.
Hey, I hadn't actually measured mine, but they are indeed just a bit wider. Mine are rim brake, I just checked and front looks like 30.5mm and rear 30.3mm. Better yet I guess! This way a tire up to 29mm wont go over 105% "rule". Yours will probably stretch and get closer to that number, so you should be fine.

I was also the one balancing both wheels like that on page 3 :P

I only had tubeless tires on mine so far, but it does look like these rims are aimed at being used as tubeless instead of tubed. The center channel is reasonably deep and shoulders are high to keep beads in place, so when my tubeless tires poped in they did a loud bang. Not the most practical design for tubes, but great for tubeless.

I had to remove the tires and place them again, and I could do so without levers, even though the Vittoria CS are said by many to be the hardest tire they ever had to place, and I had to work and pull the tires from the opposite side towards the valve, and both beads had to be in the center channel. Yet, no levers needed. It looks like if I need to put an inner tube inside those tires I'd get a sweat and possibly pinch them too...

But the upside is that there's no way the tire will come off even if you flat mid corner. Looks really safe. Even when totally deflated the beads stay in place tightly. I bet it would be possible to run regular clinchers as tubeless on these rims if one keeps pressures low enough, unless it's a loose one. Please let me know in a month if the beads of your non-tubeless GP5k have stretched or if they are still popping and doing a good bang on these rims! Because you know, why not risk safety to save 160g from the wheels?

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Beaver
Posts: 796
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2004 6:06 pm

by Beaver

Pinguin wrote:
Fri Mar 22, 2019 7:39 pm
Looks great
How is brake performance and whats the exactly name of those rims?
Brake performance is similar to other brake tracks with carbon-basalt weave (Campy, DT Swiss, Bontrager Pro) and so far trouble free. You can determine the stopping power by choosing different brake pads, e.g. the Campy red ones are quite strong, Enve grey noticably "softer".

Those are these rims in UD carbon and gloss finish - you can ask them to get a lighter pair than the stated 440g per rim:

https://www.lightbicycle.com/Road-bicyc ... lable.html

Image

For even lighter rims from other manufacturers price will increase dramatically for the last ~50g per set...

Lextegra
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2019 7:40 pm

by Lextegra

Mines have been sent out twe days ago. LB was so kind to show the custom decal results.
Still worried about two things. As a heavy rider (97 kg) i was advised 20/24H. When they were finished I saw an LB Faq where they advised 32H for stiffer wheels. Wait and see.
The 2nd surprise was that I’ve asked for good rim braking performance. No J-grooves on the braking surface though.

Just wait and see. They have the looks I wished for!
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Beaver
Posts: 796
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2004 6:06 pm

by Beaver

Lextegra wrote:
Sun Mar 24, 2019 7:15 am
Still worried about two things. As a heavy rider (97 kg) i was advised 20/24H. When they were finished I saw an LB Faq where they advised 32H for stiffer wheels. Wait and see.
What kind of spokes did you choose? CX Sprint would make sense at least in the driveside at 97kg...
Lextegra wrote:
Sun Mar 24, 2019 7:15 am
The 2nd surprise was that I’ve asked for good rim braking performance. No J-grooves on the braking surface though.
Don't worry, there's no big difference:

Image
https://cyclingtips.com/2017/08/campagn ... et-review/

Lextegra
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2019 7:40 pm

by Lextegra

Beaver wrote:
Sun Mar 24, 2019 12:13 pm
Lextegra wrote:
Sun Mar 24, 2019 7:15 am
Still worried about two things. As a heavy rider (97 kg) i was advised 20/24H. When they were finished I saw an LB Faq where they advised 32H for stiffer wheels. Wait and see.
What kind of spokes did you choose? CX Sprint would make sense at least in the driveside at 97kg...
Lextegra wrote:
Sun Mar 24, 2019 7:15 am
The 2nd surprise was that I’ve asked for good rim braking performance. No J-grooves on the braking surface though.
Don't worry, there's no big difference:

Image
https://cyclingtips.com/2017/08/campagn ... et-review/

Sapim CX-Ray J-bend spokes. I just chose the rims and hubs and left the rest to be advised by lightbicycle.
Nancy told me it’s going to be good wheelset. 😁

Thank you for letting me know about the braking power👍🏼

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Beaver
Posts: 796
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2004 6:06 pm

by Beaver

Lextegra wrote:
Sun Mar 24, 2019 3:05 pm
Sapim CX-Ray J-bend spokes. I just chose the rims and hubs and left the rest to be advised by lightbicycle.
Nancy told me it’s going to be good wheelset. 😁
The spokes won't brake, as they have 2mm diameter and are quite strong, but a CX Sprint setup would be stiffer.

In the end, you have to try for yourself and see if there's brake rub when climbing or sprinting or if it's all right for you...

ericoschmitt
Posts: 186
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 7:47 pm

by ericoschmitt

Lextegra wrote:
Sun Mar 24, 2019 7:15 am
Mines have been sent out twe days ago. LB was so kind to show the custom decal results.
Looks sweet! How I wish I knew about custom decals and paint before ordering! Next set then! :roll:

ericoschmitt
Posts: 186
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 7:47 pm

by ericoschmitt

Hey, wanted to update you guys about what happened with me in today's race:

I hit a pothole really hard mid peloton, and pinched a small hole in the rear tire sidewall (vittoria CS tubeless), seems the sealant level was below the hole so it only sealed back with some ridiculous 15psi (not sure).

I had 10km to go (circuit) including a 2km climb finish at 11% avg (up to 20something%). I was bouncing on the rim in the last few laps and climbed on the rims. The tires stayed locked in place and the wheels got absolutely no damage. It was scary nonetheless, since speeds were going above 50k/h often, and cornering was... tricky.

Were I riding normal clinchers would be end of race. No podium spot for me today but I have something to blame now! :D Up there I pumped the tire again and went down safely.

I think the CS thin sidewall played a big part in this. Maybe GP5k sidewall wouldn't have pinched, there's no point having a marginally faster tire if you flat! I guess I'm switching at least the rear tire and saving CS for really good tarmac races and climbs. I got another race that includes lots of cobbles and potholes in 3 weeks, I guess it's smart to switch!

knightskid
Posts: 64
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2018 9:39 am

by knightskid

I would like to go for GP5000 non-tubeless 23c front and 25c rear. Am wondering choosing front 19/25 lb 45mm depth rim, rear 21/28 lb 46mm depth rim, a good choice for aerodynamic?

ericoschmitt
Posts: 186
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 7:47 pm

by ericoschmitt

knightskid wrote:
Mon Mar 25, 2019 3:11 pm
I would like to go for GP5000 non-tubeless 23c front and 25c rear. Am wondering choosing front 19/25 lb 45mm depth rim, rear 21/28 lb 46mm depth rim, a good choice for aerodynamic?
None of these have actually been tested on wind tunnel or field, but I'd place my bet on 46/28mm for both wheels, plus its 15g lighter, and probably will handle better with wind.

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Beaver
Posts: 796
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2004 6:06 pm

by Beaver

knightskid wrote:
Mon Mar 25, 2019 3:11 pm
I would like to go for GP5000 non-tubeless 23c front and 25c rear. Am wondering choosing front 19/25 lb 45mm depth rim, rear 21/28 lb 46mm depth rim, a good choice for aerodynamic?
If the 23mm tire stays below 23.8mm real width you are within the 105% rule and as it has less frontal area the narrow rim could be a watt or so better. ;)

Sleeprequired
Posts: 146
Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2019 10:59 am

by Sleeprequired

Ride report is in ....

Well it’s been 3 rides since getting my LB 56mm rims and MY GOD they’re quick. Able to shave off 5-6 seconds off previous best time on a 65 second segment. One I’ve done over 60 times. Plus it’s been really windy for 3 straight rides, I can’t wait to get a crack at the same segments with optimal conditions.

My old rims were dt swiss r470s with Conti 28 4000 ii’s so things were pretty basic but I didn’t expect this kind of improvement. I think a few factors are at play:

1. Wheels are carbon and deep, more of the power is being transferred to forward movement rather than lateral flex. They just get going fast!
2. Bearings in the dt swiss 240 are super smooth
3. Aero benefits of having the right tyre / rim combo
4. Conti 5000’s in 25cc vs 4000 in 28cc

So far I’m VERY happy with them. Glad I went for the good hubs. Honestly it feels like a new bike and 3-5 is quicker. Seems ridiculous but all this factors combine I think it’s possible. More riding will tell.

by Weenie


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