overview of very wide alloy rims (> 19 mm) - rim brake
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The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
I recently built a wheelset with velocity quill rims.
Paired with vittoria Corsa G's they have transformed my bike.
I managed to get hold of a bitex hubset at a sale and I am looking to build an extra set.
For this build I would also like to use very wide rims.
Here is a list of the wide alloy rims I could find:
Velocity Quill 622-21
http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/quill-622
real weight of the rim 477 instead of 465gr
Brake track is very small - the brake pad has to be aligned perfectly
about 100 EUR
Hed Belgium plus 622-20.5
https://www.hedcycling.com/belgium-rim-brake-clincher/
good reviews but expensive 150 EUR
don't know if the weight is accurate at 465 gr
JRA LARK 20 622-20
Very likely a rebranded rim. Does anybody know what the OEM rim is?
http://www.justridingalong.com/jra-lark ... -7934.html
claimed weight 470 gr
Does anybody know what the OEM rim is?
price 95 EUR high shipping costs
Fratelli FX 2035 AIR 622-20
http://fratelli.tw/fx2035air.php
no reviews. impossible to buy
claimed weight 480 seems imposisble with the 35 mm depth
Pacenti Forza rims 622-20
https://pacenticycledesign.com/collecti ... -front-rim
read some mixed reviews
claimed weight 470
about 110 EUR
easton R90-SL 622-19.5
https://www.eastoncycling.com/products/ ... r90-sl-rim
not available in 20H drilling
claimed weight 455
about 140 EUR
Are there any other very wide alloy rims that I have not mentioned?
Paired with vittoria Corsa G's they have transformed my bike.
I managed to get hold of a bitex hubset at a sale and I am looking to build an extra set.
For this build I would also like to use very wide rims.
Here is a list of the wide alloy rims I could find:
Velocity Quill 622-21
http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/quill-622
real weight of the rim 477 instead of 465gr
Brake track is very small - the brake pad has to be aligned perfectly
about 100 EUR
Hed Belgium plus 622-20.5
https://www.hedcycling.com/belgium-rim-brake-clincher/
good reviews but expensive 150 EUR
don't know if the weight is accurate at 465 gr
JRA LARK 20 622-20
Very likely a rebranded rim. Does anybody know what the OEM rim is?
http://www.justridingalong.com/jra-lark ... -7934.html
claimed weight 470 gr
Does anybody know what the OEM rim is?
price 95 EUR high shipping costs
Fratelli FX 2035 AIR 622-20
http://fratelli.tw/fx2035air.php
no reviews. impossible to buy
claimed weight 480 seems imposisble with the 35 mm depth
Pacenti Forza rims 622-20
https://pacenticycledesign.com/collecti ... -front-rim
read some mixed reviews
claimed weight 470
about 110 EUR
easton R90-SL 622-19.5
https://www.eastoncycling.com/products/ ... r90-sl-rim
not available in 20H drilling
claimed weight 455
about 140 EUR
Are there any other very wide alloy rims that I have not mentioned?
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- WinterRider
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The Kinlin's go 24mm outside width... super easy to build a strong, round wheel w no weight penalty. Best value in rims... anywhere.
Litespeed 2000 Appalachian 61 cm
Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
Litespeed 1998 Blue Ridge 61cm
Fitness rider.. 1 yr from seven decades age.
That is my story and I'm stick'n to it.
In case you haven’t seen death match of Boyd Altamont vs. AForce Al33 https://novemberbicycles.com/blogs/blog ... force-al33
Inner width: AForce 19.75mm/Boyd 19.35mm
Outer width (max): AForce 26.5mm/Boyd 24.75
Depth: AForce 32.2mm/Boyd 29.5mm
Weight: AForce 495g/Boyd 502g
Inner width: AForce 19.75mm/Boyd 19.35mm
Outer width (max): AForce 26.5mm/Boyd 24.75
Depth: AForce 32.2mm/Boyd 29.5mm
Weight: AForce 495g/Boyd 502g
Racing is a three-dimensional high-speed chess game, involving hundreds of pieces on the board.
CBA = Chronic Bike Addiction
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CBA = Chronic Bike Addiction
OCD = Obsessive Cycling Disorder
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Kinlin always wins. All the other rims are just more expensive with doing the job any better.
The only thing wrong with the Forza is for the money you pay the Kinlin are often as round and flatter. The heds are too expensive to brake on but they are 465g reliably and build in lovely wheels. The Easton rim is expensive enough that you'll think twice about braking to avoid that car by which point it too late you've hit it.
The quill is so wide it needs 28mm tyres really which means they won't fit in every bike. 21mm internal width is really for wide gravel tyres but those bikes use disc brakes.
For road tyres 19mm internal width seems about right.
The only thing wrong with the Forza is for the money you pay the Kinlin are often as round and flatter. The heds are too expensive to brake on but they are 465g reliably and build in lovely wheels. The Easton rim is expensive enough that you'll think twice about braking to avoid that car by which point it too late you've hit it.
The quill is so wide it needs 28mm tyres really which means they won't fit in every bike. 21mm internal width is really for wide gravel tyres but those bikes use disc brakes.
For road tyres 19mm internal width seems about right.
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HEDs and Eastons are great rims which will build more consistently better wheels than Kinlins. You can build great wheels with Kinlins, but time after time the HEDs and Eastons are absolutely spot on. Saying that they're too expensive to brake on is a little ridiculous as they are way less expensive than many factory wheels, certainly way less expensive than any carbon I'd consider using (which for rim brake clinchers is not many), and their braking surfaces are more durable than Kinlins. They also dent more easily than either HED or Easton. I have not experienced firsthand but have heard from a very reliable source who sees more Kinlins than just about anyone that they've had a much higher failure rate than usual lately. Making the blanket statement that Kinlins win every time regardless of parameters or budget is much much much too broad for me to agree with at all.
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I have seen no failures in service with kinlin XR22/31 rims. All rims dent, the holes over here are frequent therefore it make sense to ride something that is cheap to replace now. Nice wheels and cheap wheels get trashed all the time. I like the HED and Easton rims but it hard to justify the extra expense when a wheel with a Kinlin is as round and flat as a wheel with a HED or Easton rim. While kinlins may wear a bit faster its not three times the rate. That my problem. I look at wheels often from a cost/benefit point of view. If money is no object then HED rims can be a good option. For most people money is tight and therefore a pair of rims that cost as much as a decent wheelset is too much.
It's been unusually dry in the U.K this year but that will change, it already has. Normally alloy rim brake rims (fronts) last me 3000 to 5000 miles for clincher whether its Pacenti, DT Swiss or Kinlin. Tubular rims last longer for some reason. That's in part because I use my alloy rim brake wheels when it wetter. So to use HED rims in those conditions would be expensive.
I advise people to get these rims solely for the looks as they do build into nice solid wheels. They look great and they are good rims. you can say they are better than the Kinlins in some ways but in the real world you won't be any faster because you're on a HED rim, your wheels won't have longer spoke life (the rim will wear out first) and it won't be any rounder or straighter.
The one thing I don't like about the HED rims though is its tubeless compatibility. Compressed air is needed to get the tubeless tyre to inflate often which is o.k but the deal breaker for me is the fact that the tubeless tyre unseats at very low pressures meaning if you get a big puncture you will have to resort to a tube as the seal will be broken. For such an expensive rim any shortcoming is a real downer.
It's been unusually dry in the U.K this year but that will change, it already has. Normally alloy rim brake rims (fronts) last me 3000 to 5000 miles for clincher whether its Pacenti, DT Swiss or Kinlin. Tubular rims last longer for some reason. That's in part because I use my alloy rim brake wheels when it wetter. So to use HED rims in those conditions would be expensive.
I advise people to get these rims solely for the looks as they do build into nice solid wheels. They look great and they are good rims. you can say they are better than the Kinlins in some ways but in the real world you won't be any faster because you're on a HED rim, your wheels won't have longer spoke life (the rim will wear out first) and it won't be any rounder or straighter.
The one thing I don't like about the HED rims though is its tubeless compatibility. Compressed air is needed to get the tubeless tyre to inflate often which is o.k but the deal breaker for me is the fact that the tubeless tyre unseats at very low pressures meaning if you get a big puncture you will have to resort to a tube as the seal will be broken. For such an expensive rim any shortcoming is a real downer.
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Well, we have different experiences and different perspectives and disagree on this. My simple statement is that Kinlins don’t always win. Nothing always wins. No harm no foul. Enjoy life.
Have you considered the DT Swiss R 460? I ride with a couple of chaps at the club who’ve been very happy with them. They’re only 23mm wide (so not as wide as the HED Belgian Plus rims) They about half the price of he HED’s but with very similar quality (apparently).
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The hed rims over here are £150 min, if the retailer fancies making almost nothing. The DT r460 rim cheaper than half the price. Try 1/4 to 1/5 of the price but I have had roundness problems with the r460 so it's a rim I avoid now.
That's what November Dave is missing. In the u. K hed rims are very expensive. 180 to 200 usd. I don't think the he'd importer even likes selling the rims. They have said numerous times they are a wheel manufacturer not a rim retailer. One wonders why they sell the rims then.
I have just built with one. The rear with tension at 1250n (washers have been used) +/- 30n on the ds and a smaller variance on the nds ( but Im at the limit of what can be relabily measured with the sapim gauge as small amounts of spoke twist affect the reading more), there is 0.45mm of up and down movement. I had it rounder but with more nds tension variance. Therefore I'll stick to the tighter tension variance as that's what maximises spoke life. A Kinlin rim relabily builds up to the same roundness or better and that's why I don't consider the hed to be better made. It just very pretty, very well finished and more expensive to me. Which suits some but not many given the u. K pricing.
That's what November Dave is missing. In the u. K hed rims are very expensive. 180 to 200 usd. I don't think the he'd importer even likes selling the rims. They have said numerous times they are a wheel manufacturer not a rim retailer. One wonders why they sell the rims then.
I have just built with one. The rear with tension at 1250n (washers have been used) +/- 30n on the ds and a smaller variance on the nds ( but Im at the limit of what can be relabily measured with the sapim gauge as small amounts of spoke twist affect the reading more), there is 0.45mm of up and down movement. I had it rounder but with more nds tension variance. Therefore I'll stick to the tighter tension variance as that's what maximises spoke life. A Kinlin rim relabily builds up to the same roundness or better and that's why I don't consider the hed to be better made. It just very pretty, very well finished and more expensive to me. Which suits some but not many given the u. K pricing.
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I have 3 sets of alloy wheels. Hed Ardennes+ Black (factory Belgium+ with Exalith-alike coating), Pacenti SL23/Bitex and Kinlin XR-Bitex.
The Kinlin and HED have CX-Ray and the Pacenti has Lasers. Weight-wise, there's not a tremendous amount in it. 50-60g bottom to top. I've had each set tensioned and trued by a local guy I trust, so in that regard, build quality is largely controlled. All things considered, The HED are the best, no trouble getting tyres on and sealed, stiff, round and take plenty of grief. Braking is excellent, wet and dry, finishing is absolutely excellent. The Pacenti are nice enough, too, though noticeably less well finished. The Kinlins are OK. Despite the supposedly stiffer spokes, they've always exhibited more play and sway than the Pacenti set at the rear (and the front, despite having 2 more spokes than the HED, is nothing to write home about). Could be a duff rim, but my guy reckons they're not out of spec. The tyres are biggest on the Kinlin (really marginal for clearance) and smallest on the Pacenti.
There's not a huge difference overall, but I'd certainly know one from the other in a blind test. As far as being worth the extra coin over the Kinlin, The HED definitely isn't at list price. At the ex-display/minor cosmetic damage price I paid, though, that's a different story.
The Kinlin and HED have CX-Ray and the Pacenti has Lasers. Weight-wise, there's not a tremendous amount in it. 50-60g bottom to top. I've had each set tensioned and trued by a local guy I trust, so in that regard, build quality is largely controlled. All things considered, The HED are the best, no trouble getting tyres on and sealed, stiff, round and take plenty of grief. Braking is excellent, wet and dry, finishing is absolutely excellent. The Pacenti are nice enough, too, though noticeably less well finished. The Kinlins are OK. Despite the supposedly stiffer spokes, they've always exhibited more play and sway than the Pacenti set at the rear (and the front, despite having 2 more spokes than the HED, is nothing to write home about). Could be a duff rim, but my guy reckons they're not out of spec. The tyres are biggest on the Kinlin (really marginal for clearance) and smallest on the Pacenti.
There's not a huge difference overall, but I'd certainly know one from the other in a blind test. As far as being worth the extra coin over the Kinlin, The HED definitely isn't at list price. At the ex-display/minor cosmetic damage price I paid, though, that's a different story.
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You said the Kinlin rim. Which one. You say the spokes are the same as the hed rims but then say the spoke are stiffer at the end. Sorry to nit pick.
To have a rim of comparable stiffness to the belgium+ it would need to be the xr26t. The 22t is not as stiff and the xr31t is very stiff but because of that I think it need stiffer spokes than lasers or cx rays at the rear or brake rub can be an issue.
To have a rim of comparable stiffness to the belgium+ it would need to be the xr26t. The 22t is not as stiff and the xr31t is very stiff but because of that I think it need stiffer spokes than lasers or cx rays at the rear or brake rub can be an issue.
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Apologies for the lack of clarity. It's an XR22. The spoke comparison was between the Lasers on the Pacenti wheelset. The HED has fewer spokes.
They're not bad wheels by any stretch, and perfectly decent for most purposes, the other two sets just up the ante a little. FWIW, I don't find any of them as stiff as a set of TB14 on Ultegra with 32/32 plain spokes, but they're much heavier, narrower and obviously not tubeless. Horses, courses and all that.
They're not bad wheels by any stretch, and perfectly decent for most purposes, the other two sets just up the ante a little. FWIW, I don't find any of them as stiff as a set of TB14 on Ultegra with 32/32 plain spokes, but they're much heavier, narrower and obviously not tubeless. Horses, courses and all that.
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