Bora WTO

[NMvelo]

This may help.
I have Campy Bora WTO 33’s.
I have mounted 4 Pirelli P Zero Race tlr 700x28 tires as tubeless.
They go on easy and I’ve used levers for the last little bit just to make it easy as I have hand issues.
I pump them up with a Silca digital pump ( not a booster pump) without even taking the valve core out.
One tip I got from Rides of Japan video was to use bead slip available on Amazon.
The tires measure 27mm at 75 psi on these rims which have an inner width of 19 mm.
I expect they will stretch to the 28 mm width as stated once I have some miles on them as the weather is too bad to take my good bike/wheels outside yet.
Hope this helps my Campy friends:)

[Ylo]

FWIW, I just bought a pair of Campy Bora WTO 33 and mounted Conti GP5000 S TR tires running tubeless. These tires are tight but not impossible to get on with some soapy water and a third lever. Beautiful wheels!!

Compared to Mavic Comete UST (65 mm), the WTO 33 + Conti shaved 0.75 pounds off my Pinarello Dogma F12. So, it went from 17.05 pounds aero to 16.30 pounds climbing / less aero, and this was going from an 11x29 to 11x32.

I don't think this will improve my climbing by much but I can't complain.

[Llanberis]

Alex/Calnago:
Not looking like I am going to get at the rear tonite...
These are the Cyclus part numbers of the tools, and yes Alex, unfortunately you are correct, the front is a different size extractor... My understanding is Cyclus worked with Campagnolo on the design of the tools...
The following are the Cyclus part numbers/links to bike24 where I ordered from:
Rear Cup Extractor Part # 720112
https://www.bike24.com/p2276469.html
Front Cup Extractor Part # 720082
https://www.bike24.com/p2276437.html
Press tool Part 720113
https://www.bike24.com/p289253.html

I simply pressed the cups in, the ones I popped out came out dry as well... took 2 light taps with the mallet to "pop" em out
My cones are dry as well.. I just put a drop of Prolink ProGold on there , worked it in, and did things up... I was told only a few drops of oil are needed on the bearings.. there is no need to "flood" them so to say...

The most important thing is to follow what I said in the thread above with the two flat steel bars on the flat spot of the hub.. I was told by another member they used multile cone wrenches to build up space and then popped the 5mm end cap.. I took the advice given and went with the 2X square steel bars.. I was told 5mm, but I could only get my paws on 3/16 which is essentially 5mm.. I got the 2 lengths cut at 3 inches so there was alot of support in the vice.

Use this video for reference as well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xM9SiZVYe_g

I will post pics of tools etc over the next day, you are free to PM me as well if you have any questions!

Apologies for resurrecting an old post.. Am I right to assume, for WTO disc brake wheels, it's 720112 for front & rear hub baring extractions?

[ParisCarbon]

Alex/Calnago:
Not looking like I am going to get at the rear tonite...
These are the Cyclus part numbers of the tools, and yes Alex, unfortunately you are correct, the front is a different size extractor... My understanding is Cyclus worked with Campagnolo on the design of the tools...
The following are the Cyclus part numbers/links to bike24 where I ordered from:
Rear Cup Extractor Part # 720112
https://www.bike24.com/p2276469.html
Front Cup Extractor Part # 720082
https://www.bike24.com/p2276437.html
Press tool Part 720113
https://www.bike24.com/p289253.html

I simply pressed the cups in, the ones I popped out came out dry as well... took 2 light taps with the mallet to "pop" em out
My cones are dry as well.. I just put a drop of Prolink ProGold on there , worked it in, and did things up... I was told only a few drops of oil are needed on the bearings.. there is no need to "flood" them so to say...

The most important thing is to follow what I said in the thread above with the two flat steel bars on the flat spot of the hub.. I was told by another member they used multile cone wrenches to build up space and then popped the 5mm end cap.. I took the advice given and went with the 2X square steel bars.. I was told 5mm, but I could only get my paws on 3/16 which is essentially 5mm.. I got the 2 lengths cut at 3 inches so there was alot of support in the vice.

Use this video for reference as well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xM9SiZVYe_g

I will post pics of tools etc over the next day, you are free to PM me as well if you have any questions!

Apologies for resurrecting an old post.. Am I right to assume, for WTO disc brake wheels, it's 720112 for front & rear hub baring extractions?

That is correct.. the DB hubs use the same rear size bearing front and read, the rim brake hubs require the smaller 23.4 mm extrator as well for the front..

[Llanberis]

Many thanks @ParisCarbon! Looking forward to following your steps.

[CyclingKai]

I am lurking around the Bora WTO's for some time now.

A question to make it easier to pull the trigger at the WTO's:

Are the 33s tough and stiff enough for an 88 KG / 195 LBS rider? I would prefer the shallow rim on my climbing bike 785 Huez RS as it looks off with aero wheels

[jwchew]

Has anyone compared the WTO series to modern, wider wheels? I live in a very hilly area, so I'm looking for something with great handling and grip. Currently running 25 tires, and not necessarily looking to go wider, but open to it if there are significant handling gains.

[RDY]

I note the Bora Ultra WTO 80s are very light for their depth, unlike the rest of the range. Albeit also very expensive ... €4500.

[alanyu]

Has anyone compared the WTO series to modern, wider wheels? I live in a very hilly area, so I'm looking for something with great handling and grip. Currently running 25 tires, and not necessarily looking to go wider, but open to it if there are significant handling gains.

Tour has tested it in 2022.01 issue. Bora WTO 60 is the worst in both aerodynamics and crosswind stability. The most stable one is RSL 62, followed by ARC 1100 62 and D-A C60 (both share the same score in stability).

[Nohands83]

I haven't ridden the RSL62 but have recently purchased the 51s and they are remarkably stable - similar to the Reynolds aero series.
I've ridden wheels a lot shallower (including WTO) which handle crosswinds worse.

[rollinslow]

I actually have had better crosswind stability with my Bora 60's and 45's compared to my Enve 3.4's. I suspect some of that is perhaps subjective assessment by magazines or the total system of rider, bike, geo, weight has a bigger effect.

[neeb]

I have the Bora 60s and the 45s. I've also had the Reynolds Aero 46 and 58. The performance of these wheels is very similar, they all seem excellent in crosswinds for their depth. I did like the Reynolds and they were just as fast as the Boras, but braking is much better on the Boras and I'd have much more confidence in them in mountains as they have been shown to be considerably more resistant to heat buildup, and the very loose fit of tyres on the Reynolds (while nice for changing flats) worried me a little.

[Nohands83]

Agree, there are a lot of variables - I think geo and rider position has a significant impact, potentially as much as rider weight.
Seem to also remember reading how the different wheel shapes interact with different fork shapes can also affect stability.

[jlok]

I have got the Bora Ultra WTO 60 with Corsa Speed G2.0 25mm to start with. Then it's changed to a High Road 28mm rear, and finally High Road SL 28mm front. The most stable combination under turbulence is 28/28. btw my bike is designed with 28mm tires in mind.

[Vuong05]

I note the Bora Ultra WTO 80s are very light for their depth, unlike the rest of the range. Albeit also very expensive ... €4500.

It's now a 21mm internal and 27.3mm external (Ultra WTO 80) vs 19mm internal and 26.1mm external on the Ultra WTO 60. Price is steep, but in line with other wheels in this segment.