First Wheel Build...

[grahus]

@WinterRider...Thank you. I did 'pluck' them, as well as 'ting' them with a screwdriver, and each side sounded pretty close to each other and there were no obvious outliers, I obviously didn't compare sides at the rear.

@F45...Thanks. Having looked around at several options, I think I will go for similar LB 35mm rims for my next build. I'm still not decided on holes for the front. I might go for 24 so it balances the rear, and I want to go for 24h rear with 12 on each flange this time. I am only going for Bitex hubs as they are very light for the money. I want to use Sapim Lasers for the weight reduction and was going to use them all round, front and rear....although now I have written that, I'll see how many suggestions come in regarding using Sapim Race for the rear DS!!

And the more I think about it the more I like the idea of getting a Tensiometer, for no other reason than I am curious from a measuring point of view as to how much or how little my tensions are varying. Although they are very expensive (for a decent one) for not much gain, but that is just my opinion at the moment.

[WinterRider]

Minor caveat using Lasers .. they can 'wind up' w tensioning.. I've observed it both ways. Some I've assembled did not show this tendency yet a more recent build did. I did note the butted section length different on wind up build... if it's steel variation, threading per interference or ?.. dunno. One simply indexes the spoke and returns that point to reference after tensioning.

12-12 rear.. what do you weigh? Then.. what is your tension balance per hub spacing? Some of the more recent hubs only give mid 40's tension balance on the left.. ie: a practical DS limit typically is 120 kgf so the NDS is running mid 50's kgf-- not enough to prevent spoke loosening. They will 'shake loose' sans glue or whatever method one used to 'fix' them. Hence the main reason for the triplet lacing... tension balance to avoid having to crank the DS tensions high to get reasonable NDS tension.

[grahus]

I'm ok with the wind-up, have read about it and want to face it and conquer it, lol.

I weigh 82-84kg, but I'm quite smooth with power delivery, not too extreme on my equipment. I am not planning on using any 'spoke fix' type solution, only light grease/oil to help with building.
For the rear rim, in carbon, I am hoping to get it asymmetrical.

[grahus]

An update to my first wheel built...

Front Wheel;
Holding up fine, still true after a few more hundred km's on it.
I'm worried about 'wheel flex', actual or perceived. I am not experiencing issues during riding, but if I hook my fingers under the rim, and use my thumb to push against the fork leg I get some movement, at least a couple of mm's, is this normal?
Maybe it is just the fork not being stiff enough, or slight movement within the hub?

Rear wheel;
No further tuing required since the initial re-trying post first couple of rides.
Similar to the front wheel, I am seeing some very small deviation when I push the rim against the rear stay!
I also think I can feel a very slight 'play' in the rear hub, which needs further investigation.
Even so, I'm not experiencing brake rub under normal riding conditions.

[Multebear]

Play in hub is not a good thing. That needs attention asap.

Movement when pushing the rim is always difficult. If there's no hub play and if there's no brakerub, then I don't see a problem. Try mount some of your other wheels and do the same, especially factory build wheels to find out, if it's the same with them. Not sure there really is a problem.

[bm0p700f]

nice build but knowing that rear hub you would have had a stiffer rear wheel with the standard RAR10 rear hub. The asymmetric rear rim gives sufficient NDS tension on a standard hub so no need to do anything special.

[grahus]

@bm0p700f....I didn't realise I had ordered the 2:1 hub until it arrived!! So next time I want to go with the standard 24h.
And, to you knowledge, can you get a similar Kinlin rim with black brake track or on a non-gloss finish?

[grahus]

Took the rear hub apart this week and found out what the 'play' was...

Both QR axle extensions were slightly loose and the cassette lockring was loose also! The cassette lockring was probably my failt, not tightened enough, although this has never happened before. The QR axle extensions were not touched from when the hub arrived, and I would have noticed any play at that point.

Anyway, took the hub and cassette fully apart, cleaned and reassembles eveything and all feeling good for now.

[alcatraz]

By qr axle extensions do you mean the hub endcaps?

I noticed that hubs where these aren't screwed on can easily develop play and noise because the system relies on the QR to be strong enough not only to keep the wheel in the dropouts but to compress all the components in the hub and take the play out. When the hub gets older and maybe these parts don't move as smoothly over the axle then even when the QR is at hand bleeding pressure, it's still not strong enough to compress away the play. What I do then is I (after tightening the skewer) put an appropriately sized hex socket over the QR end nut and a piece of wood/thick cloth and give that a few gentle taps with a hammer. Then I notice I can tighten it tighter after that.

[grahus]

Yes, sorry, hub endcps. There are screwewd on but there is no way to really secure them as they are smooth/round and have no securing bolt.

Will try your suggestion further down the road (no pun intened) but these are almost brand new!

[grahus]

Some better pics...

[WinterRider]

system relies on the QR to be strong enough not only to keep the wheel in the dropouts but to compress all the components in the hub and take the play out.

Nonsense. Learn to assemble the hub correctly.

[alcatraz]

system relies on the QR to be strong enough not only to keep the wheel in the dropouts but to compress all the components in the hub and take the play out.

Nonsense. Learn to assemble the hub correctly.

On a bontrager branded dt swiss hub where the freehub hadn't recently been taken off it started to have increased play and noise. The cassette had lateral play. After doing the trick it went back to being quiet.. and it spins smoothly. No busted freehub bearings either. Try it...