Giant SLR1 30mm

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jzinckgra
Posts: 175
Joined: Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:55 pm
Location: Maine, USA

by jzinckgra

I'm buying a leftover 2017 TCR Advanced KOM and it comes with these wheels. The hub body is Shimano but I'm a campy guy. I used to mix and match shifters with cassettes years ago with mixed results.

I plan to put Record 11 speed on. Will I be able to use a Shimano cassette and will it shift ok? If not, I'm going bora ultra but they're so expensive.

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jfranci3
Posts: 1572
Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2016 5:21 pm

by jfranci3

Should have a DT Swiss hub. Probably DT 240 https://glorycycles.com/dt-swiss-11-spe ... ehub-body/ I dont think you can use your current cassette.

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silvalis
Posts: 765
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Location: Aus

by silvalis

I don't think SLR1 had the dt swiss ratchet internals - was a regular pawl hub. SLR0 is star ratchet.
Chasse patate

ongbenghui
Posts: 51
Joined: Mon Aug 21, 2006 3:16 am

by ongbenghui

if it is the SLR1 that come with a TCR, I think it is a DT Swiss 370 hubs. 3 Pawls hub.

jzinckgra
Posts: 175
Joined: Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:55 pm
Location: Maine, USA

by jzinckgra

silvalis wrote:I don't think SLR1 had the dt swiss ratchet internals - was a regular pawl hub. SLR0 is star ratchet.
This is what Giant says
Hubs - Giant SLR 1 DBL WheelSystem; Pawl driver, [F] 16h [R] 21h

And I found this from Velo:

The rims and lacing systems are the same on both SLR 0 and SLR 1 wheels, but the SLR 1 is $1,000/set cheaper ($1,300 vs. $2,300/pr.). This is accomplished by dropping the SLR 0’s DT Swiss star-ratchet freehub system and Aerolite/Aerocomp bladed spokes in favor of the SLR 1’s standard freehub pawl system and Sapim Race/Laser round, butted spokes.
Read more at http://www.velonews.com/2015/06/news/th ... oB8ag6M.99

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vanillaflyweight
Posts: 37
Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2017 5:54 am

by vanillaflyweight

I have recently upgraded these wheels to Bora One 35s. The reason for that was that the SLR1 30mm has really really bad braking.

They require easily double if not more braking distance compared to the boras. However my brother owns the slr0 and says that they aren't too bad so maybe another option.

On a positive note they do roll wheel and the free hub is nice and loud (if you like that).

Billiano
Posts: 25
Joined: Wed Jul 11, 2018 10:42 pm

by Billiano

The hub is a DtSwiss 360.So get a Campi freehub

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mpulsiv
Posts: 1384
Joined: Mon Mar 24, 2014 9:17 pm

by mpulsiv

vanillaflyweight wrote:I have recently upgraded these wheels to Bora One 35s. The reason for that was that the SLR1 30mm has really really bad braking.

They require easily double if not more braking distance compared to the boras. However my brother owns the slr0 and says that they aren't too bad so maybe another option.

On a positive note they do roll wheel and the free hub is nice and loud (if you like that).
Out of curiosity, have you tried Campagnolo red pads with your Giant SLR wheels before drawing a conclusion?
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b5000
Posts: 39
Joined: Tue Sep 05, 2017 6:15 am

by b5000

adding some thoughts on older post re: Giant SLR1 / SLR0 30mm wheelsets

Don't know if the Campagnolo cassettes fit - The Shimano compatible cassettes definitely do. I have both sets of the 30mm SLR1 & 0's and the 42mm and 55mm sets (as jzinckgra mentioned: rim is same on SLR0 & SLR1 only the hubs & spokes are different) - these are quality wheels and in my opinion are one of the best value wheelsets out there for weight & performance and are often overlooked in favor of more brand named wheels. & can be found for a good cost on ebay etc. I have tried zipps and reynolds in similar depths.

If the brand name really matters to you - that's OK just go with that - but my personal experience there is nothing in the performance of these wheels that will hold you back. These are great wheels - prob overlooked because of the giant name, etc... etc..

(I have an older frame that maxes out on 25mm tire width and I run 23mm GP4000S2's which end up at around 25/26mm with these wheelsets) - but the 17C internal should be good for a bit more width if you need or want or have a newer frame that can handle wider tires.

I'm an average lighter rider (62 KG weight) and I have mixed up the wheel depths depending on the ride, route etc.. don't do much braking on descents or much in general on longer rides - but these wheels have had no issues in that department and the stopping power has never been an issue - as they stop great (tried both swiss stop flash pro black prince pads & stock giant pads - both work great on these rims), freewheel is a mellow light sound - not loud or annoying like other sets I have tried.

+1 on these wheelsets - for value - performance - and lack of loud branding graphics :wink: .

izza
Posts: 136
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2011 9:03 pm

by izza

Be careful regarding spokes.

Many Giant carbon wheels use diamond headed spokes which have been very difficult to find spares. Authorised dealers are supposed to carry them but I know three friends who have given up waiting and just stare at their wheels in their houses.


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zirxo
Posts: 297
Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2014 12:46 pm

by zirxo

vanillaflyweight wrote:
Thu Mar 08, 2018 7:30 am
I have recently upgraded these wheels to Bora One 35s. The reason for that was that the SLR1 30mm has really really bad braking.

They require easily double if not more braking distance compared to the boras. However my brother owns the slr0 and says that they aren't too bad so maybe another option.

On a positive note they do roll wheel and the free hub is nice and loud (if you like that).
I use these wheels as training wheels and the braking is only bad in wet weather in my opinion.

jzinckgra
Posts: 175
Joined: Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:55 pm
Location: Maine, USA

by jzinckgra

I still have these wheels and they have been good to me, but rear drive side bearing needs to be replaced. I was able to remove hub body and axle, but the bearing just behind the drive ring does not seem removable unless I remove the drive ring first. I saw some youtube videos and some people just tap out the bearing through the non-drive end, but there is a small lip around the hub on that side that makes it unlikely. Can someone confirm that the drive ring does in fact need to be removed first, then pop the bearing out on that side?
Last edited by jzinckgra on Sun Mar 28, 2021 2:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Taiyoto
Posts: 77
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2021 3:31 am

by Taiyoto

I have one set of SLR1 30mm tubeless
the hub is DtSwiss 360, very good and long life hubs, the freehub is ready for Shimano casette.

Yes you can change to Campy , but also needs to replace the freehub to Campy. My opinion just ride with the Shimano casette, maybe you don't like it, then, change it!!.

The Casette has not differences with any brand, only the SRam, is 12 Speed for the AXS, but I prefer the Shimano Casette, why? very good and low price comparing with the Sram casette, The Sram casette the cost is double price, and Campy also expensive.

Just make sure what T you want 11-28T, 11-30T, 11-32T ,

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jzinckgra
Posts: 175
Joined: Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:55 pm
Location: Maine, USA

by jzinckgra

Taiyoto wrote:I have one set of SLR1 30mm tubeless
the hub is DtSwiss 360, very good and long life hubs, the freehub is ready for Shimano casette.

Yes you can change to Campy , but also needs to replace the freehub to Campy. My opinion just ride with the Shimano casette, maybe you don't like it, then, change it!!.

The Casette has not differences with any brand, only the SRam, is 12 Speed for the AXS, but I prefer the Shimano Casette, why? very good and low price comparing with the Sram casette, The Sram casette the cost is double price, and Campy also expensive.

Just make sure what T you want 11-28T, 11-30T, 11-32T ,
Thanks. I've been running campy. Just asking about the bearing removal.

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