sub 1200 alloy wheels (with component list)

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JoO
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by JoO

ergott wrote:
Tue Feb 20, 2018 4:14 pm
Why not just get carbon tubulars then? you can easily find inexpensive rims that are sub 300g. Run some Tufo Lites and the combination will be significantly lighter and stronger.

My tubulars are 1122g without evening trying to be WW. You can totally get lighter for less money than what I did.
I don't have a car following me so no tubulars for me.

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ergott
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by ergott

That is the most ignorant comment I see about tubulars.

Remind us again, what rides are you doing that only go up, hill climbs right? How many of these are on road conditions that are poor enough to worry about flats? Your fear of tubulars is completely irrational and preventing you from choosing the best wheel for the job you are trying to accomplish.

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F45
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by F45

But don't tubulars require a paint brush and a jar of goo that is sticky and gets all over everything? Gross.

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pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

I saw Madcow post a picture of a prototype 25mm FSE tubular rim that weighed only 221g. It’s so tempting to get a tubular wheelset but I’ve never owned a set and I’m scared of getting a flat on a ride. So I understand one has to bring a spare tire to be on the safe side. When happens when you get a second flat? On clinchers if I run out of spare tubes I can patch a tube using quick patches. And lastly I know one get a tubular patched professionally. Many years ago it was something like $30-$35 a tire. Maybe prices have gone up since. I know all the advantages of tubulars but I’d like to know more about the downsides. If I get a tubular wheelset I intend to ride it daily since I don’t race.


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alcatraz
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by alcatraz

Tubeless rims won't interfere with tubes. Just check for sharp edges.

I also run 50gr latex tubes. :thumbup:

I think before one goes tubular one has to have a few years of nearly flatless clincher experience behind oneself. That way the confidence is high. I've been tempted but what kills it is the price for decent tubulars and time consuming repairs (i can't throw stuff away before it's used up so I'll be there sewing casings until I drop dead). Besides doesn't carrying a spare take a deep bite into the weight savings tubulars offer?

I will try tubulars because I'm a weenie but it will be on a cheap wheelset I nearly never use. Just to take KOM's. :lol:

/a

Noctiluxx
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by Noctiluxx

I got a pair of DT Swiss Spline 28 Mon Chaserral clinchers from Merlin for $1700. They came with a custom DT 180 with a carbon shell hub and weight 1249 grams. Incredible wheels!
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JoO
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by JoO

I am sorry if I have offended anyone.

I am looking for an very light alloy wheelset that I will build myself.
Half the fun is in the building and it is also al lot cheaper eur/grs saved.
Hence my question for CN330 spokes.

I have no experience with tubulars and but at this moment I am not interested.
I often ride in Liege-Bastogne-Liege territory so poor road surfaces are a consideration.

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pdlpsher1
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by pdlpsher1

Noctiluxx wrote:
Wed Feb 21, 2018 6:29 am
I got a pair of DT Swiss Spline 28 Mon Chaserral clinchers from Merlin for $1700. They came with a custom DT 180 with a carbon shell hub and weight 1249 grams. Incredible wheels!
I looked at the specs of these wheels and they are only 15mm internally wide. That's quite narrow by today's standard. The Fulcrum Racing Zero Carbon Clinchers are 17mm wide and weigh 1,340g. It's pretty easy to see how DT was able to save weight by using a narrow rim. Yes it's light but it's a compromised rim.

VamP
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by VamP

Thing is, tubulars hardly ever puncture. I haven't punctured a road tubular in over 8 years. It's not as much of a bogeyman as people think.

If you don't want to carry a spare tub, carry a bit of sealant - 99% of the time that will get you home. And have a phone for the remaining 1% of hardly ever.

I love my tubs.

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

Now now tubs are not a problem. I use them and somehow I dont have problems. I glue tubs without getting sticky glue all over the tyre, rims and me. Well it on the tyre and rim where I want it to be. Its all doable. yes you have to carry some sealant and a spare tub to get you put of trouble but the weight gain is more than offset by the lower weight.

Like ergot without trying I have 38mm deep 1020g tubulars. even with a tub in my back pocket that still lighter than a good clincher. Tubs also dont seem to puncutre that often. not sure why but they dont.

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ergott
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by ergott

JoO wrote:
Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:28 pm

These would be climbing wheels only.

For the flats I am thinking about megawide wheels (Velocity Quill 622-21) for the bad Belgian roads.
Your words not mine. What climbing rides do you do that you're worried about flats? I'm giving you a far superior alternative that won't break the bank either. Use Tufo tape if you are concerned about gluing tires. I've used Tufo tape since the stuff came out and it's just fine with very little prep (a little wiping of rim with acetone or similar).

Of course building your own wheels is great, but for parts list and approximate price just look at this. Nothing fancy and way stronger than what you're attempting to build. It's not even close. Don't forget that all the rims you are discussing have a relatively low tension limit (100-110). Add that to the fact that the tension imbalance of the Bitex rear hub is rather high (43% tension on left side) you get a rear wheel that will difficult to keep true). I've worked with almost all the parts you are considering and trust me, I the rear wheel will be a floppy mess if you put out any reasonable power through it or appreciate out of the saddle efforts.

weight: 1151.78g+/-25 Non-Stocked, typically ships within 1-2 weeks
Unit Price: $503.00
Bitex hubs and Pillar PSR X-TRA1420 spokes 20/24

https://www.lightbicycle.com/carbon-38m ... bular.html

Marin
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by Marin

If he wanted carbon he could reach his sub-1200g goal with clinchers too :)

joejack951
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by joejack951

ergott wrote:
Thu Feb 22, 2018 3:53 pm
Your words not mine. What climbing rides do you do that you're worried about flats? I'm giving you a far superior alternative that won't break the bank either. Use Tufo tape if you are concerned about gluing tires. I've used Tufo tape since the stuff came out and it's just fine with very little prep (a little wiping of rim with acetone or similar).

Of course building your own wheels is great, but for parts list and approximate price just look at this. Nothing fancy and way stronger than what you're attempting to build. It's not even close. Don't forget that all the rims you are discussing have a relatively low tension limit (100-110). Add that to the fact that the tension imbalance of the Bitex rear hub is rather high (43% tension on left side) you get a rear wheel that will difficult to keep true). I've worked with almost all the parts you are considering and trust me, I the rear wheel will be a floppy mess if you put out any reasonable power through it or appreciate out of the saddle efforts.

weight: 1151.78g+/-25 Non-Stocked, typically ships within 1-2 weeks
Unit Price: $503.00
Bitex hubs and Pillar PSR X-TRA1420 spokes 20/24

https://www.lightbicycle.com/carbon-38m ... bular.html
Might as well go low profile on the rim, too, for an uphill bike. I'm building a second set of wheels for my disc brake bike using these rims: http://www.farsports.cn/product/detail.php/id-247.html ($335/pair delivered)

Current wheels are 40mm deep x 27mm wide rims and 25mm tires. Going to 23mm tires on these and 4 less rear spokes for a total weight loss of nearly 500 grams. I should have the rims in a few weeks (delayed by CNY).

bm0p700f
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by bm0p700f

not easily marin sub 1200g clinchers require sub 400g rims and evens fair wheels FSE 25mm clcinher wheelset is over 1200g it canbe done with expenive extralite hubs or very light spokes but then there are compromises in that.

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