Titanium or steel freehub body for DT hubs?

[Lelandjt]

Not the same tack your were taking, but Sram Red cassettes will solve your problem and are lighter too.

Seriously, this is weight weenies. Aluminum freehub = lighter. Red cassette = lighter. Why use a Shimano cassette and steel or Ti freehub?

[MayhemSWE]

Seriously, this is weight weenies. Aluminum freehub = lighter. Red cassette = lighter. Why use a Shimano cassette and steel or Ti freehub?

Because some might want/need even lower gearing and Red isn't available in 11-34T (Shimano CS-HG800-11) or 11-36T (Sram PG-1170)?

[Multebear]

Not the same tack your were taking, but Sram Red cassettes will solve your problem and are lighter too.

Seriously, this is weight weenies. Aluminum freehub = lighter. Red cassette = lighter. Why use a Shimano cassette and steel or Ti freehub?

Light is fine for racing. But for training; who gives a sh!t... I'm not paying for red cassettes to get me through the north european winter.

[mattr]

And i've still not found anything that works as well/durable as a shimano hub bearing arrangement.

[alcatraz]

Larger bearings are going to be more durable, all else being equal.

Another nice thing with the shimano design is that the wheel's right side is supported at the axle end, not somewhere in the middle of the axle.

If there were any light loose ball bearing hubs I might switch to them.

[Multebear]

Searching on the part number at the bottom of that page gives you a good amount of compatibility data.

HWRABX00S6531S

Thanks for this. An order has been placed

[bm0p700f]

just switch to campagnolo and away for the hyperglide cassette design which is the problem. Also i still maintain multebear is probably making the problem by not tightening up the cassette lockring enough.

Shimano hubs are not that reliable. they need preventative servicing which many owners don't so the bearing cups wear and thats it for the hub. Most people and shops think a service is clean up the internals and if the bearings are shiny pack with a grease and reassemble. wrong replace the bearings before they go dull that is the only way to delay bearing cup wear.

[Multebear]

just switch to campagnolo and away for the hyperglide cassette design which is the problem. Also i still maintain multebear is probably making the problem by not tightening up the cassette lockring enough.

Shimano hubs are not that reliable. they need preventative servicing which many owners don't so the bearing cups wear and thats it for the hub. Most people and shops think a service is clean up the internals and if the bearings are shiny pack with a grease and reassemble. wrong replace the bearings before they go dull that is the only way to delay bearing cup wear.

Thanks for the advice regarding shimano bearings. I will do that to my Dura Ace hub soon. Do you know where to source new bearings? Those bearing balls can't be expensive, right?

Regarding thightening the cassette lockring, I tighten it to the point where it's hard to open it again. If that's not enough, then it's a poor design, that is not designed for average users to use. That said, if this DT Swiss steel freehub body works as expected, then my problems go away, which is exactly the solution I expected by starting this topic.

I'm not moving to Campy. Started out with campy and rode it for couple of years, and they have their own set of problems like
- pricetag. Chorus cassette = 100 euros - no thanks.
- Problems with accurate shifting.
- Approx 5 % of all riders ride Campy = hard to source used parts and hard to sell used parts.

For those who swear to campy - lovely. It's just not for me.

[bm0p700f]

hard to open but with what tools. the longer the lever the easier it gets. It's not a design problem, it maybe a tool problem. I really mean this or I would have the same issue.

The bearings are not expensive. Its worth keeping a decent stock of them. for loose balls buy either the shimano grade 25 stainless balls but the best balls for any hub are grade 10 chrome. grade 10 chrome are rounder and less prone to pitting but they must be packed with good grease to keep the water out or they will rust. Shimano grease is pretty good. Rock n Roll super web is superb. Either does the job fine. If the maintenance is done preventatively and cones changed when they show hints of pitting then the bearing cups/hubs can be run for silly miles.

As for campagnolo not having accurate shifting that how its set up. I can make shimano shift like a bag of nails very easily.

[Multebear]

Are these the bearings we are talking about?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Genuine-Bike-C ... 0701227480

[bm0p700f]

those are the loose ones for one side of the rear. Caged balls must be used for the other side and the front hub. I have tried loose balls everywhere and could not get the hub set up right.

here the link to my site. obviously there are other sources like SJS cycles.
https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/s ... alloy-axle

[mattr]

Funny, i use loose balls everywhere (phnarr!) on all my shimano hubs (probably 10-12 pairs currently in service) and have had no issues with set up. Except when i get someone else who has left the hub to the point of well past "maintenance" and got right into "repair or scrap"..........

[ergott]

Regarding thightening the cassette lockring, I tighten it to the point where it's hard to open it again.

There's a torque spec written on it. Try with torque wrench at least once and see how that compares to your usual method.

[Multebear]

As you are professional shop owners, I’d expect you to own that sort of tools. I’m just a regular rider, and own just the most necessary tools including a chain whip and cassette removal tool, not encluding a torque wrench for cassette tigtening. If the design requires a torque wrench in order for the cassette not to notch, then I find the problem in the design of the freehub body and not the tools. My WI T11, DA and 105 hubs work just fine without a torque wrench and don’t cause any problems. There are endless amounts of tools to have, and one needs to stop buying tools at some point, and this is the point to stop for me I’ve solved the problem with a steel body.

[bm0p700f]

multebear if you are doing your own bike work then you are the mechanic. That means as a mechanic you should have the right tools for the job. if you don't you're a bodger and not a mechanic. You should really be going to a good LBS however there are too many that are bodgers too.

Wash your mouth out about having to stop buying tools. Next, you'll be saying stop buying bikes. What's wrong with you. You're having a bubble surely?